New V-Twin Break-in UOA

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My new Briggs 20 HP V-Twin Extended Life engine had only an hour on it. I changed the oil because who knows what's really in their from the shop. They told me Briggs 30wt oil. It was quite dark and I am glad I changed it because the oil had already sheared to a 20WT. These engines really shear a lot...that's what probably leads to oil consumption.

This Briggs oil is also way too low in ZDDP for like $6/qt. Not a good choice in my humble opinion. One can do a lot better for the $$.

Alum 6
Iron 8
Copper 16
Lead 11
Moly 50
Manganese 2
Boron 111
Silicon 18
Sodium 6
calcium 1389
Mg 220
Phos 622
Zinc 853

Sus Vis@ 210*C 56.1
Cst @ 100*C 9.1
FP 405
Fuel% < 0.5
Insoluables 0.2
 
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Briggs Extended Life Oil Filter and Amsoil ASE 30WT/10W-30.

Will leave that in for probably 6 hours and then get a UOA.

Engine much smoother on the Amsoil after 2 hours.
 
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Originally Posted By: Pete591
My new Briggs 20 HP V-Twin Extended Life engine had only an hour on it. I changed the oil because who knows what's really in their from the shop. They told me Briggs 30wt oil. It was quite dark and I am glad I changed it because the oil had already sheared to a 20WT. These engines really shear a lot...that's what probably leads to oil consumption.

This Briggs oil is also way too low in ZDDP for like $6/qt. Not a good choice in my humble opinion. One can do a lot better for the $$.

Alum 6
Iron 8
Copper 16
Lead 11
Moly 50
Manganese 2
Boron 111
Silicon 18
Sodium 6
calcium 1389
Mg 220
Phos 622
Zinc 853

Sus Vis@ 210*C 56.1
Cst @ 100*C 9.1
FP 405
Fuel% < 0.5
Insoluables 0.2



RWest posted this UOA a while ago....it was on Briggs oil...my oil has 1/2 the ZDDP....I have to wonder what the deal is...did the dealer use $0.99/qt oil in my new engine?

"Recently I picked up a Toro 340 XP mower, which came with an 18 oz bottle of Briggs & Stratton branded oil. Out of curiosity, I had to send a sample off for analysis (I used Rotella 30 wt in the mower)". Here's what Blackstone says:

RON: This sample of Briggs & Stratton 30W oil had a viscosity in the high 20W-range. This shouldn't be a problem. No water or contamination was present in the sample. Insolubles were acceptably low at a trace level. The TBN of this sample is 9.8, and that's a fairly typical starting TBN for virgin motor oil. Calcium, boron, and magnesium perform a detergent/dispersant function, while the anti-wear additives come from phosphorus and zinc. This is serviceable oil.
MI/HR ON OIL:
MI/HR ON UNIT:
DATE: 5-19-09

ALUMINUM: 0
CHROMIUM: 0
IRON: 0
COPPER: 0
LEAD: 0
TIN: 0
MOLY: 18
NICKEL: 0
MANGANESE: 0
SILVER: 0
TITANIUM: 0
POTASSIUM: 1
BORON: 27
SILICON: 2
SODIUM: 1
CALCIUM: 2212
MAGNESIUM: 16
PHOSPHOROUS: 1045
ZINC: 1164
BARIUM: 0

SUS VISC. @210F: 58.5
Cst Visc. @100C: 9.80
Flashpoint: 425
Fuel %: —
Antifreeze %: —
Water %: 0.0
Insolubles %: TR
TBN:9.8
 
Pete as always, I respect your diligence in regards to UOAs. It's interesting data, especially for nutz like us. Thing is, your numbers are going to be all over the place on this new engine until it breaks in anyway. That, and changing oil brands and viscosity ranges in between skews the numbers even more. I just don't see any value in a UOA on a new engine that hasn't seen 3,4 or more oil changes using the same oil.

Joel
 
JTK,

I did a UOA on my new Toro mower with B&S engine. It showed higher than normal break-in #s which later failed at 40 hours. The new engine (supplied under warranty) break-in #s are much lower in comparison. It can be helpful to see if everything is wearing in correctly.
 
I'm with you Ben. But OTOH, look at Pete's UOAs for his Briggs Vanguard twin. Stellar UOAs and she still took a major dump.

Joel
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
I'm with you Ben. But OTOH, look at Pete's UOAs for his Briggs Vanguard twin. Stellar UOAs and she still took a major dump.

Joel


The mechanic told me it was bad to use Motul 15W-50 because it is too thick and won't shear down at all. The more restrictive oil filter (M-1) made things even worse. He looked the engine over and said it was oil starvation. The slopes in my yard really beat the engine up in this condition.

Now the 30wt conventional that was in my new engine when tested at 1 hour had already sheared to a 20wt.

YA JUST CAN'T WIN!
 
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Originally Posted By: Pete591
Originally Posted By: JTK
I'm with you Ben. But OTOH, look at Pete's UOAs for his Briggs Vanguard twin. Stellar UOAs and she still took a major dump.

Joel


The mechanic told me it was bad to use Motul 15W-50 because it is too thick and won't shear down at all. The more restrictive oil filter (M-1) made things even worse. He looked the engine over and said it was oil starvation. The slopes in my yard really beat the engine up in this condition.

Now the 30wt conventional that was in my new engine when tested at 1 hour had already sheared to a 20wt.

YA JUST CAN'T WIN!



Small engines will never be perfect.
 
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Originally Posted By: Pete591
Originally Posted By: JTK
I'm with you Ben. But OTOH, look at Pete's UOAs for his Briggs Vanguard twin. Stellar UOAs and she still took a major dump.

Joel


The mechanic told me it was bad to use Motul 15W-50 because it is too thick and won't shear down at all. The more restrictive oil filter (M-1) made things even worse. He looked the engine over and said it was oil starvation. The slopes in my yard really beat the engine up in this condition.

Now the 30wt conventional that was in my new engine when tested at 1 hour had already sheared to a 20wt.

YA JUST CAN'T WIN!



Small engines will never be perfect.



It's a "sometimes ya get a good one" and "sometimes you get a bad one" world with small engines. In other words quality control varies from engine to engine with some manufacture's having less variance.

You know I had a 35 year old Areins Snow Blower with a Techemseh 8 HP L-head that you can not kill. Still running strong. Definately a tough dog of an engine they made back then.
 
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Quote:
RWest posted this UOA a while ago....it was on Briggs oil...my oil has 1/2 the ZDDP....I have to wonder what the deal is...did the dealer use $0.99/qt oil in my new engine?

It was probably just the factory fill - and who knows where they got it?
21.gif


Wow, after reading your other thread, I won't recommend either using Rotella T 30 weight, or the Purolator L10241 or FL400S filter, like I do with all my B&S/Kohler stuff.
27.gif


Bestb of luck with this new one...
thumbsup2.gif
 
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