New Type Oil Drain Plug Gasket

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I posted this question on the Toyota Nation forum with no results. The oil drain plug gasket for my 04 Camry V6 is now a thinner aluminum with a rubber coating on both sides. OEM torque for the original, heavier aluminum gasket is 33 ft lbs. Does anyone know if the new style gasket requires less torquing? 33 ft lbs seems too high for a rubber coated gasket. I torqued the new style gasket to 25 ft lbs and so far, no leaks. Help will be appreciated. It's currently raining in Columbus, Nebraska. We need it. Driest March in many years.
 
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Seriously? The things we worry about. Drain plug: I simply snug it down with my ratchet and never give it a second thought. I've never had one leak.
 
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There are so few professionals who torque drain plugs, if they even considered it they would be laughed out of the shop,.. Until you go really high end [censored], I get laughed at for torquing spark plugs and valve covers
 
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I have used the OEM toyota metal crush washer with rubber over it, and I have used the aftermarket felpro nylon crush washer. The felpro is larger than the OEM part, but worked fine. Both worked fine, I have never used a torque wrench on a drain plug before, nor have I had one leak. The key seems to be replace the crush washer at every oil change, that's what I do. Toyota dealer charged me $7 for an OEM spin on filter, and $1.87 for a crush washer, I think that is excessive. Next time I will get the denso from Rockauto, which seems to be the exact same filter as OEM.
 
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To the OP: The difference between 33 and 25 ft.lbs. isn't that great. You're probably just fine. Over the years I've come to prefer the "rubber coated" type oil drain gasket. The ABSOLUTE WORST is the hard plastic (light blue) ones. They don't squish and they work loose. BAD, BAD. Kira
 
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Originally Posted By: Eddie
Very important to torque it to the correct value +/-0.1 LB/FT.
Don't forget the additional 5° you MUST turn to stretch the bolt properly!! J/K. Snug should be fine. If you don't have a leak, you're good.
 
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Snug it and forget it. I've never replaced any gasket and I'm not even sure if my car, or any of the the other dozen cars whose oil I've changed, has one.
 
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Originally Posted By: Kira
To the OP: The difference between 33 and 25 ft.lbs. isn't that great. You're probably just fine. Over the years I've come to prefer the "rubber coated" type oil drain gasket. The ABSOLUTE WORST is the hard plastic (light blue) ones. They don't squish and they work loose. BAD, BAD. Kira
Not a great difference? 33 is 32% more than 25, quite a difference.
 
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Dont forget, torque values are usually specified dry. This ensures the fastner will sieze/gall/corrode in place, which in turn ensures that it'll shear normally if you ever try to take it off. When torquing it up, did you make sure that the thread on the drain of your oil pan was absolutely free of any traces of..er..oil? Easy thing to miss smile
 
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Originally Posted By: hansj3
[censored], I get laughed at for torquing spark plugs and valve covers
Hee Hee!
 
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Originally Posted By: hansj3
There are so few professionals who torque drain plugs, if they even considered it they would be laughed out of the shop,.. Until you go really high end [censored], I get laughed at for torquing spark plugs and valve covers
You get my utmost respect, sir! (I torque valve covers and spark plugs too, not to mention oil pan drain plug. With many Honda oil pans are now alu alloy, I have yet to cross-thread a single one all these years....go figure*) Q.
 
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My Prius calls for the newer type that is coated aluminum. The torque-spec is 27 ft-lbs. Sometimes, I'll use the Nissan copper crush washers since they are a lot cheaper. Those completely crush at 25 ft-lbs.
 
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When I worked at a Toyota dealer, we used to use a 14mm Snap-on combination wrench to tighten the drain plugs. Those dull knife blades called wrenches, would hurt your hand long before there was ever a chance of over torquing the drain plug.
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
When I worked at a Toyota dealer, we used to use a 14mm Snap-on combination wrench to tighten the drain plugs. Those dull knife blades called wrenches, would hurt your hand long before there was ever a chance of over torquing the drain plug.
Very true.
 
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Originally Posted By: Quest
Originally Posted By: hansj3
There are so few professionals who torque drain plugs, if they even considered it they would be laughed out of the shop,.. Until you go really high end [censored], I get laughed at for torquing spark plugs and valve covers
You get my utmost respect, sir! (I torque valve covers and spark plugs too, not to mention oil pan drain plug. With many Honda oil pans are now alu alloy, I have yet to cross-thread a single one all these years....go figure*) Q.
If I thought a torque wrenches prevented me from ever cross-threading a fastner in an aluminium casting, I'd be using one most of the time. But I don't think they do. (mine doesn't, anyway) I think they are something to do with measuring the torque applied to a fastner. Not nearly as useful, though mildly interesting, in a geeky sort of way smile
 
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Originally Posted By: Throt
Snug it and forget it. I've never replaced any gasket and I'm not even sure if my car, or any of the the other dozen cars whose oil I've changed, has one.
The fords I have worked on have the gasket integrated into the drain plug and it is reusable. The import cars use a crush washer which is one time use only.
 
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I reuse my crush washers 3 or 4 times on my Toyotas. You can get more than one use out of them. Torque wrenches prevent cross threading? Just tighten the plug hand tight. It should thread in easily. If it doesn't, you're likely cross threaded. Another vote for just snug it.
 

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Originally Posted By: The Critic
My Prius calls for the newer type that is coated aluminum. The torque-spec is 27 ft-lbs. Sometimes, I'll use the Nissan copper crush washers since they are a lot cheaper. Those completely crush at 25 ft-lbs.
Thank you sir. That is what I was trying to ascertain. What torque Toyota is specifying for those vehicles using the new type gasket. I was in power generation mechanical maintenance planning for many years and saw first hand what using slugging wrenches in place of torque wrenches can cause: lost generation and costly repairs.
 
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