Make that, "...does not say that I shouldn't drain the initial oil"...before the recommended oil drain interval.
Ken
[ March 08, 2003, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
New Toyota - What Would You LIke to See?
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Ken
[ March 08, 2003, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
I wonder about the don't change the oil untill the first scheduled oil change but alot of people do it . I have changed alot of new engine oil and i will use this example , my dad come over to visit me with his new Toyota pickup with 800 miles on it I asked if he wanted me to change the oil. Look at the dipstick he said the oil is clean! Well I changed the oil and guess what the oil was clean and full of sparkles. For what the truck costs change the oil and filter .Then change the differentials transmission and transfer case if it is a four wheeler ,then go on the factory recommened schedule. Iwould use any of the oils the guys post here that give good results.change your oil and filter often. The more I think about it synthetics may not be worth the expense unless extreme conditions warrant it.
JHZR2
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Well, at first i was thinking that if the interval was done at the same point, say 3000 mi stop and go, then there is a common paraqmeter for all the oils. Doing this, one could extrapolate approximately how much longer you could go with the oil analyzed.
Dino and the blend are pretty cheap, I think they are best done at 3000. Everyone knows that full synth is good for longer, but since it is stop and go, short trips, it would be interesting to see how much longer it could theoretically go in those conditions. So, 3000 miles would probably be good there, except that it is $ynthetic, and so 4500 miles would probably still eb quite safe to get a good result that isnt terribly worn, and give us some good data.
Plus, doing this mehod will set up you engine for running synthetic, and youll already know how long you can extend drain intervals based upon your driving habits.
JMH
Dino and the blend are pretty cheap, I think they are best done at 3000. Everyone knows that full synth is good for longer, but since it is stop and go, short trips, it would be interesting to see how much longer it could theoretically go in those conditions. So, 3000 miles would probably be good there, except that it is $ynthetic, and so 4500 miles would probably still eb quite safe to get a good result that isnt terribly worn, and give us some good data.
Plus, doing this mehod will set up you engine for running synthetic, and youll already know how long you can extend drain intervals based upon your driving habits.
JMH
Thank you for the kind words YZF. I was starting to question my ability to communicate in standard King's English.
I contacted Amsoil to find out what they found out with the two Toyota test engines they had. I was told that the problem was insufficient crankcase ventilation. They did not say that it was the PCV valve.
BTW. What would happen to the oil inside of an engine if the PCV valve line were blocked off to cause insufficient ventilation?
I heard that there was more than a oil pickup modification. I heard mention of a newer valve cover design which allowed better scavenging of the valve train gasses. Anyone know more about this?
Yes, wulimaster, partway into the 2002 model year the 1MZ-FE V6
PCV system was modified and some oil passages were enlarged.
Specifically (according to two Toyota technicians on Toyota forums):
1. A new type of valve cover was used that provided more room underneath
2. A screw in type PCV valve was used instead of one that pops in a rubber grommet.
3. The oil drain holes in the blowby separator matrix plate that is attached to the
underside of the valve covers were enlarged .
PCV system was modified and some oil passages were enlarged.
Specifically (according to two Toyota technicians on Toyota forums):
1. A new type of valve cover was used that provided more room underneath
2. A screw in type PCV valve was used instead of one that pops in a rubber grommet.
3. The oil drain holes in the blowby separator matrix plate that is attached to the
underside of the valve covers were enlarged .
Automakers aren't in the fluid/filter business. They just usually source out to a contracter--think lowest bid. Using factory fluids and filters can be a waste of money. I can get almost any quality synth for the same cost of a cheap dino quart at the dealer. I can also pick/choose from any filter that I want.
I also always dump the factory fluid 1st chance I get. Nothing like changing a new cars oil with less than 100 miles. Never did care for assembly line or machining carnage that ends up in the engine. No method of cleaning, in a factory, is perfect.
And, when using synthetic, I have always done a gradual (in 25% increments) change to synthetic over normal maintenance intervals. On the new cars, this allows enough dino-oil time for engine break in. On my older car purchases, this allows a more gradual cleaning of the engine.
Oil bottles labelled synthblend are a waste. I have yet to see any %%% on the bottle. Either use a dino oil or a synth.
I also always dump the factory fluid 1st chance I get. Nothing like changing a new cars oil with less than 100 miles. Never did care for assembly line or machining carnage that ends up in the engine. No method of cleaning, in a factory, is perfect.
And, when using synthetic, I have always done a gradual (in 25% increments) change to synthetic over normal maintenance intervals. On the new cars, this allows enough dino-oil time for engine break in. On my older car purchases, this allows a more gradual cleaning of the engine.
Oil bottles labelled synthblend are a waste. I have yet to see any %%% on the bottle. Either use a dino oil or a synth.
I agree with JHZR2, and I also share your frustration with all of the side trips you had to take in your post to get an answer to your question.
I'd change that 800-mile oil right now. Run another fill of dino oil for several hundred miles, then start your controlled test. We'd expect a lot of metal in there at first, and the initial changes will wash much of that out.
Since you do not expect to put on many miles very quickly, I would suggest that you concentrate more on regular oil changes and not extended drain intervals. Synthetic oil may not be for you because of what you say will be your driving habits.
The climate where you live is temperate enough, without wild temperature extremes, to use the same viscosity blend year-round. I agree to use the same branded oil. You will very likely be well-served with a dino/syn blend oil. There are a number of brands readily available that include both dino and synthetic blend forumulations. Do an analysis or two with dino, then try a blend. Keep it at 3000 miles per.
That's what I'd like to see.
Congratulations on your new vehicle. Many, many miles to you!
I'd change that 800-mile oil right now. Run another fill of dino oil for several hundred miles, then start your controlled test. We'd expect a lot of metal in there at first, and the initial changes will wash much of that out.
Since you do not expect to put on many miles very quickly, I would suggest that you concentrate more on regular oil changes and not extended drain intervals. Synthetic oil may not be for you because of what you say will be your driving habits.
The climate where you live is temperate enough, without wild temperature extremes, to use the same viscosity blend year-round. I agree to use the same branded oil. You will very likely be well-served with a dino/syn blend oil. There are a number of brands readily available that include both dino and synthetic blend forumulations. Do an analysis or two with dino, then try a blend. Keep it at 3000 miles per.
That's what I'd like to see.
Congratulations on your new vehicle. Many, many miles to you!
TooManyWheels,
I also have a V6 Tacoma. You can find my oil analysis results in the UOA section of this forum (search on my user name).
I currently have about 24k miles on the truck. I did my first oil change at 500 miles and went straight to Mobil1. The truck doesn't use any oil.
So far I have been running Mobil1 10w-30 and 0w-40. Two other oils I am curious about and am considering using are Redline (probably the 10w-30) and Amsoil. I would like to see some more data from either one of those two oils.
I also have a V6 Tacoma. You can find my oil analysis results in the UOA section of this forum (search on my user name).
I currently have about 24k miles on the truck. I did my first oil change at 500 miles and went straight to Mobil1. The truck doesn't use any oil.
So far I have been running Mobil1 10w-30 and 0w-40. Two other oils I am curious about and am considering using are Redline (probably the 10w-30) and Amsoil. I would like to see some more data from either one of those two oils.
If you plan to stick with a dino oil, both the Castrol GTX and Pennzoil look like good choices.
Scooter - I have been watching your posts, due to the similar vehicles. I don't think I can justify the more expensive synthetics with the low usage I'm anticipating, but if that changes I probably will go in the direction you suggest.
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