new to the frum...a few questions/help, please

[97tbird]

I just registered, and this is my first post. First of all, I think you're doing a great job, I'm learning a lot, already.
Here are some questions I have:

I have a 1997 T-bird, 4.6L V8, and it just reached 80,000 miles.
It has no oil leaks/oil burning etc. Since buying it at 71,000 miles, I've tried several kinds of regular oil(Motorcraft 10w-40, Valvoline Durablend 10/30-this was not good, somehow, and then Pennzoil High mile-10w/40) in it, but I'm technically not an expert to decide what's best for my car.
However, I ALWAYS use Motorcraft Filters. The previous owner ran Pennzoil 10/40 in it, he says.

With the Bird reaching 80,000 miles, I wanted to go synthetic, and now I have Pennzoil 10w-30 in it. After about 150 miles, I see that the oil level is good, no visible leaks, and the oil is very clear.
So,
1) Have I made a good choice? Which other choices are there, which could be better? should I just use a higher mileage oil like Pennzoil HM or Valvoline?
2) Is it bad to turn to synthetics at this mileage? can I do any harm by running synthetics(leaks, etc.)? should I check the oil more often? Can I go back to regular?
3) The recommended oil is a 5w-30, is 10w-30 or 40 too thick? (I live in Tennessee, drive about 40 miles a day at an average of 65 mph(4 times a week), do not race or drive hard, change oil/filter every 3K, use Motorcraft filters, and want to keep the Bird as long as I can)
4) Which oils would you recommend? regular or synthetic at this mileage? (which brands for regular and synthetic?)
5) are there synthetic 10w-40 oils? Do I need it? Can it harm the engine?(too thick, etc.)

I know it's a lot of questions, but as I said, I'm not an expert...I would much appreciate your feedback/info/answers to my questions. Thanks again, and keep up the good work.

 

[7TFord]

...Hard to say whether or not switching to a synthetic at that mileage is an advantage. It's gone 71K on the Pennzoil 10/40 without any problems (I'm assuming this is a petroleum product) and there is a possibility they say that synthetic oil in a higher mileage engine can cause seal oil leaks due to the oils high detergency characteristics. Why were the Valvoline and the Motorcraft products not good? Why not just stick with what the previous owner used and your Motorcarft filters?

 

[WeyounDS9]

Welcome tbird I see u are in Oak Ridge.
I like that town was there a couple of times.

1) I am not a huge friend of hi milage oils.
While I like that they are on the thicker side of their listed viscosities, I dont see the need for the extra seal swellers, if you have no leaks.
I think your current brand choices are pretty decent.
2)Its fine to switch to syn, no harm will come an du can enjoy the benefits of syns. At first, i guess, I couldnt blame u for checking levels more often (anytime u switch brands thats a good idea),but modern syn simply do not leak excessively.
Yes you could go back to regular
3)The oil is recommended at 5w-30, only so EPA in tests, will run that oil, when they determine mpg.
Or in other words: Its the thinnest viscosity Ford could recommend, w/o reducing longevity excessively.
10w-30 is not too thick, same viscosity during running, only a bit thicker during starts, a non issue in summer.
For sure go with a xw-40.10w-40, 5w-40 0w-40.(the last 2 only if syns, as otherwise the cold to hot visocsity spread would be so large, as to indicate a possible excessive use of VII's , not an issue with syns)

4)I currently run MOBIl1 0w40 (year around)in my 4.5L 32 valve V8.
Have run ValvolineSYnpower 5w-40 in my previous car all year round, that oil has some detractors here, but has kept my engiens cleaner than otehr syns, seems not to do well in extended drain (which I dont do anyway 3k changes only).
One oil analysis here had it outperform MOBIL1 5w-30, BUT there it weas up against thinner oil, maybe not a fair fight.
As for synthetoc off-the-shelf I am currently back to MOBIL1.
As for blends I like Valvolien Durablend 10w-40, has good cleanign capability w/o using too mcuh detergents (due to base lubes used).
Its teh visosity.
As for blends the Schaeffers oils are widely popular among this well versed group here which is saying something.
But I am kinda lazy and just enjoy going into a store and physically buying oil as a fun errand.

As for regular oils the oil ananlyses I have seen most on it are from MAxima .org where it seem to work real well in tjhose VQ30/35 engines (on that board mostly driven hard).
That oil I would also recommed in 10w-40 for your application.
5) No. Synthetic 40 weights genreally pass cold flow requiremtns real well so you will see them as 0w-40 or 5w-40 most commonly.Its by no means too thick.
I consider 40 weights to be medium thickness oils, 30 weights thin and 50's kinda thick.
20 weights I ignore as an abberation.
Yes with modern chemistry we can make thin oils (30 and 20 weights) work, but why not use this hi-chem in the proper grades?
(the last comment was directed, at the follwers of the mondern thin oil philosphy of which we also have some here.)

Fred...

[ May 10, 2003, 09:48 AM: Message edited by: palmerwmd ]

 

[CJH]

1) Have I made a good choice?
If you are driving easy and changing your oil every 3,000 miles, you are not getting any benefit from the synthetic oil. For your circumstances, you could go back to dino, or you may want to stay with synthetic and extend your interval to 5,000 miles.

Which other choices are there, which could be better? If you stay with synthetic, consider Mobil 1 for an over the counter oil. A lot of the guys on here will tell you Schafers, Amsoil, or Redline which are specialty oils you wont find locally.

should I just use a higher mileage oil like Pennzoil HM or Valvoline?
Only if your car is consuming oil (burning or very small leaks).

2) Is it bad to turn to synthetics at this mileage?

Not at all, as long as you don't get any leaks.

Can I do any harm by running synthetics(leaks, etc.)? Some people report leaks when they change to synthetic at high mileage. They go away when you switch back, so no harm, no foul.

Should I check the oil more often? I would check it every time you buy fuel.

Can I go back to regular? Sure, anytime. No problem. They are compatible and you can even mix them if you like.

3) The recommended oil is a 5w-30, is 10w-30 or 40 too thick? (I live in Tennessee, drive about 40 miles a day at an average of 65 mph(4 times a week), do not race or drive hard, change oil/filter every 3K, use Motorcraft filters, and want to keep the Bird as long as I can)

I would use the thickest oil the manufacturer recommends in the owner's manual, unless the engine consumes a significant amount of oil...then I would go to 10W40 in your climate.

4) Which oils would you recommend? for regular or synthetic at this mileage? (which brands for regular and synthetic?)

For regular, I would use Chevron, Castol GTX 5W30 or Pennzoil if it doesnt burn oil...10W40 if it does. For synthetic, I would use 10W30 or 5W30 Mobil 1.

5) are there synthetic 10w-40 oils? Not sure, but there are lots of 5W40 synthetic oils.

Do I need it? You dont need synthetics if you change your oil every 3,000 miles.

Can it harm the engine?(too thick, etc.) Synthetic oils seems to flow more easily, so if your car has been run for a long time on 10W40, synthetic oil of 5W40 or 10W40(if there is such a thing) would not be a problem.

[ May 10, 2003, 09:58 AM: Message edited by: CJH ]

 

[Dr. T]

Syntec comes in a 10-40 from what I can remember.

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dr. T:
Syntec comes in a 10-40 from what I can remember.

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Yep, they do list a 10w40 Syntec on the data sheets Castrol mailed me. It's not sold in Canada as far as I've seen.

[ May 13, 2003, 09:14 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]

 

[Al]

10W-30 Castrol and Chevron Supreme seem to do well on oil analysis. If you are going to extend intervals go with Mobil 1 10W-30 or Amsoil. You can use a 40 wt in Tenessee if you want but for your driving it's not likely to be a big benefit.