IIRC they already started. Are you sure that scope is made in China?
New to me Savage 111 in .270 WIN. Thoughts on ammo and glass
- Thread starter The_Eric
- Start date
A lot of optics are made in Japan. Some are made in China. COO doesn’t mean “bad” as good stuff can come from factories that have high standards.
Holosun, for example, makes good red dots, but they are made in China. I have one Holosun, just to see how good it was, alongside two red dots from Trijicon (made in the USA) and four from Leupold (made in Oregon).
Nothing wrong with optics made in Japan, and the Holosun is a good piece of gear, but COO does matter to me, and I prefer optics that are made here.
That said, in the OP price range, you’re unlikely to get USA made glass - maybe assembled in the USA with Japanese glass…and there is nothing wrong with that.
Holosun, for example, makes good red dots, but they are made in China. I have one Holosun, just to see how good it was, alongside two red dots from Trijicon (made in the USA) and four from Leupold (made in Oregon).
Nothing wrong with optics made in Japan, and the Holosun is a good piece of gear, but COO does matter to me, and I prefer optics that are made here.
That said, in the OP price range, you’re unlikely to get USA made glass - maybe assembled in the USA with Japanese glass…and there is nothing wrong with that.
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Well I ended up going with THIS scope that ArrestMeRedz suggested. Between FFP and SFP, the scope with the bullet drop calculator and so on, there are so many options out there that I just need to start somewhere.
Next question is - what is a good method for getting the scope mounted level horizontally on the rifle? If possible I'd like to avoid buying specialty tools for occasional use, but could probably be convinced if it's really necessary.
Next question is - what is a good method for getting the scope mounted level horizontally on the rifle? If possible I'd like to avoid buying specialty tools for occasional use, but could probably be convinced if it's really necessary.
That’s a great choice - well within budget, good glass, with a great warranty. Made overseas, but not China.
I’ve always just “eyeballed” the mount.
I put the gun in a vise, or on a steady rest, then aim it at a distant wall or out doors, and have a carpenter’s level for reference. If you’re not comfortable with that - or don’t have experience (woodworking, carpentry in my case) in “seeing level” - a gunsmith will have the tools to get it right.
I’ve always just “eyeballed” the mount.
I put the gun in a vise, or on a steady rest, then aim it at a distant wall or out doors, and have a carpenter’s level for reference. If you’re not comfortable with that - or don’t have experience (woodworking, carpentry in my case) in “seeing level” - a gunsmith will have the tools to get it right.
I've worked in fab shops for many years and have a decent "eye" for things - I will give that a try, thanks!
What are the side effects of having the cross hairs out of rotation a degree or two?
If you're shooting at long range, then the bullet drop, and the reticle (be a BDC reticle, or a turret that compensates for drop) will not be in the same plane - that is, as the bullet drops more, the more the reticle will be off left/right.
Note that this same thing happens with a rifle that is not level. The bullet drops purely vertically - gravity, after all. And it gets moved by wind. So, you want the scope to have a perfectly level mounting (so that the displayed bullet drop is perfectly vertical).
So, not only do you need the scope leveled with the rifle, but you have to hold the rifle level as well - or the same thing happens - the displayed plane of drop isn't purely vertical, and so, the aim point in your scope is off by a bit, because it's showing a drop that isn't vertical, while the bullet is dropping vertically.
There are 60 minutes of angle in a degree - so, once you get past about 100 yards - the accuracy of the scope being "level" with the rifle really starts to come into play.
I knew I'd be mounting quite a few optics, so I broke down and bought a Tipton gun vice, scope levels and a torque screwdriver with bits. If I was only doing one, I think I'd be looking for a gunsmith to get it right. But then again, I don't have the calibrated eyeball that you guys have.
One of the reviews I read from late last year said that they’re made using Japanese glass in a state of the art Chinese manufacturing facility.
Vortex has a video on their YouTube showing how to mount it using a plumb bob and a flashlight.
So far the price is holding steady.
I am a Deer hunter, but i too love a range day. I take my reloading gear with me and enjoy a day spent tinkering with a new load. Yes, i am a rare breed, a Brit that owns Guns
..270 is a great cartridge, the OP will not be disappointed with it.
Well here she is with the scope all mounted. Pardon the mess, with all the house work being done space is severely limited. Most of the tools, tool box and other stuff is all piled into my man cave.
And no I'm not compensating for anything with that sunshade attachment
I've got the bore pretty well cleaned up but there looks to be one or two little bits of copper fouling. For now I'm not going to obsess over it - I'm just going to get some rounds through it and wait until I get a better cleaning rod set up (any recommendations?) I bought some Wipe Out and that left a little bit. I also have some Barnes bore cleaner that I may try.
And no I'm not compensating for anything with that sunshade attachment
I've got the bore pretty well cleaned up but there looks to be one or two little bits of copper fouling. For now I'm not going to obsess over it - I'm just going to get some rounds through it and wait until I get a better cleaning rod set up (any recommendations?) I bought some Wipe Out and that left a little bit. I also have some Barnes bore cleaner that I may try.
I’m a fan of J. Dewey rods. Amazon carries them, but if they don’t have exactly what you’re looking for, you can always go directly to the manufacturer.
I’ve also had good luck with “Butch’s Bore Shine” for deep cleaning a barrel.
Follow the directions carefully, as I believe it has some ammonia in it, and it wouldn’t wanna leave it in there too long. I also wouldn’t want to get it on the varnish of your rifle stock.
I get a bit more blue on the patch when I use Butch’s, than when I use Hoppe’s no. 9, which is still a favorite.
I’ve also had good luck with “Butch’s Bore Shine” for deep cleaning a barrel.
Follow the directions carefully, as I believe it has some ammonia in it, and it wouldn’t wanna leave it in there too long. I also wouldn’t want to get it on the varnish of your rifle stock.
I get a bit more blue on the patch when I use Butch’s, than when I use Hoppe’s no. 9, which is still a favorite.
As always, thank you for your input.
