New to Me 2006 Sentra 1.8

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3,014
Not too long ago I foolishly sold an early year Camry 4 banger. I've wanted a "beater" ever since. Opportunity came a knocking. A work fried of 18 years had a Nissan Sentra 1.8 5 speed he used for a commuter car. He's had 2 different Sentra's before this 2006 and took them both to well past 200k. One was to 300k. He is consistent with maintenance and does dino at 3k OCI. Because of the detail he is working (he is working federal task force gun interdiction and doing a great job) he has a specific vehicle to use for work. So he found he was only putting 2-4k a year on the Sentra.

We are close and he said hey I need to sell this and I have a $600 credit card bill I'd like to clear up. Sold!! Clean and drives smooth. 159k miles on it. Front brakes were done in 2019 with less than 5k on them (not sure of rotors); tires are about half worn; new Interstate battery labeled July 2019 (we have an Interstate shop where I work and they give us wholesale pricing; love em!) drive and accessory belts changed within last year. No concern of drive belt as it's a chain. Haven't tried the heat as it was 70F today but the AC on low was nice and cold!!! No leaks underneath either.

I could see the PCV is OE so ordered a new valve. I ordered plugs as well. Oil cap is a jackpot. No milky coloring (head gasket concern) and no signs of any sludge. No leaks underneath. Struts are surprisingly tight for 160k but it has a lot of highway. Clutch is tight! Gears are smooth. Last stick I had I was in High School with an I-Rock Z :oops:

Sooo...

PCV and plugs will be next week. The crankcase is only 3 quarts. I dropped 9oz Mystery Oil in the oil and will change in 500 miles. I'm using Super Tech 5-30 I use for the F150. I'll probably do 3k OCI at first and then a 5k and further after that. Makes me feel good.

I will soon look to change the gear box oil. Correct to think 75-90 synthetic the way to go?

I will also do a coolant drain and fill. From what I've read it's a yellow coolant? Nothing I've found says Asia specific fluid. Is this correct?
 

BISCUT

Thread starter
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3,014
Additionally, I would like to change out the fore and aft O2 sensors. For O2 sensors they are cheap! Any concerns changing these out? I figure disconnect battery and remove old and install new?
 
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2,817
Location
Kentucky
I typically don't replace the rear O2 sensors unless they're suspect-- I think it's a waste of money. They really don't affect engine performance as they're just there for emissions (catalytic converter efficiency) to compare O2 concentration before and after the cat.

On the transmission, I think you'll want 75W-90 GL4, or specifically an MTF.

On coolant, if I'm not mistaken, Nissan was still using phosphated HOAT, also known as "asian coolant" in 2006. I use Pentofrost A2 and highly recommend it; it's dark green in color which should match the Sentra OEM coolant, unless I'm wrong on the OEM chemistry.

$600 on any half reliable running car is good deal IMO!
 

BISCUT

Thread starter
Messages
3,014
I typically don't replace the rear O2 sensors unless they're suspect-- I think it's a waste of money. They really don't affect engine performance as they're just there for emissions (catalytic converter efficiency) to compare O2 concentration before and after the cat.

On the transmission, I think you'll want 75W-90 GL4, or specifically an MTF.

On coolant, if I'm not mistaken, Nissan was still using phosphated HOAT, also known as "asian coolant" in 2006. I use Pentofrost A2 and highly recommend it; it's dark green in color which should match the Sentra OEM coolant, unless I'm wrong on the OEM chemistry.

$600 on any half reliable running car is good deal IMO!


Thanks for the info. especially the rearward O2. I have been pleased Pentofrost A3 in my Subaru. I'd be happy to go that route. Was concerned about compatibility

It was a great buy.
 

BISCUT

Thread starter
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3,014
You don't list location, how's the body and interior? Rust?

A nice running car with known maintenance for $600 is a steal if you can't see the road through the floor.

I'm in New Yorkistan. Rust is in check. The bottom of the doors show a minor rusting on the far edges but not a through rust. More of a color rust if that makes sense. I expected rust in the area of the strut wells but it's only surface (they type you get after a few years on a new car in the NorthEast). No other rust to be concerned about. It's a gem for sure. It was garaged for first 8 years or so.

Must say, it's refreshing to be in a "real" car so to speak. No back up camera and you are a "driver" with the stick. I'm in shock I enjoy a vehicle with 125 HP :sick: I don't think I'm having a middle age crisis but writing that makes me second guess :ROFLMAO:
 
I'm in New Yorkistan. Rust is in check. The bottom of the doors show a minor rusting on the far edges but not a through rust. More of a color rust if that makes sense. I expected rust in the area of the strut wells but it's only surface (they type you get after a few years on a new car in the NorthEast).

I moved to Az from NW Rustylvania so I'm familiar with what salt can do to a car. 200k sounds like no problem, aim for 250k.
 
Messages
2,817
Location
Kentucky
Thanks for the info. especially the rearward O2. I have been pleased Pentofrost A3 in my Subaru. I'd be happy to go that route. Was concerned about compatibility

It was a great buy.

I've been buying Pentofrost coolants on Rockauto. The A2 full concentrate is $17 a gallon, best price I've found by far. Shipping isn't too bad if you can combine it with some other things you need.
 
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1,144
Location
Pacific Northwest
Second the MT-90.

We've had 2 Sentras in our extended family that have made it nearly to 300k. My wife had a 5 speed model that went to 280K before it was rear-ended and totaled. It only had a water pump and a couple of CV shafts for major repairs.
 

BISCUT

Thread starter
Messages
3,014
Here are some pics of rust. The passenger door has some rust at the bottom of the door. Driver side is good. Both rear doors have nada. Kinda odd to me. Underneath is better than I'd expect for a northeast vehicle used in winter and rarely had undercarriage washing. There is the most rust on the front frame pic. Hitting with a mallet does not cause crumbling flakes to fall. It'll be good for another decade.

The struts are OEM and I was impressed at the low level of rust on the upper mounts for 14 years old in the realm of snow and ice. \\\

Couple pics to play with...
 

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BISCUT

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3,014
I have a question on the forward O2 sensor. Disconnect battery; disconnect electric connector; and simply remove old O2 and replace with new one? Anything else to it? Dielectric grease? Anything for the sensor threads? What torque? This sensor mocks me! So easy looking I feel I have to ask or I'll miss the obvious. Do when cold is all I can really come up with on my own.
 
Messages
2,817
Location
Kentucky
I have a question on the forward O2 sensor. Disconnect battery; disconnect electric connector; and simply remove old O2 and replace with new one? Anything else to it? Dielectric grease? Anything for the sensor threads? What torque? This sensor mocks me! So easy looking I feel I have to ask or I'll miss the obvious. Do when cold is all I can really come up with on my own.

You'll probably need an O2 sensor socket. I've used a regular wrench on occasion but it only works if it's not rusted solid and there's enough room to swing the wrench. Spray some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil on a day or two beforehand if it looks like it's going to fight you.

I use a bit of anti-seize on the threads. Some O2 sensors I've installed had dielectric grease preinstalled in the connector, but I've installed some without and never had any trouble. For torque I've always gone by feel, which to me is good and tight but not so tight that you need a long ratchet or cheater bar. NGK has torque values on their website.
 
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2,340
Location
South Carolina
Anything else to it? Dielectric grease? Anything for the sensor threads? What torque? This sensor mocks me! So easy looking I feel I have to ask or I'll miss the obvious. Do when cold is all I can really come up with on my own.
NONONO on dielectric grease on the electrical contacts. Sensor threads usually come with never sneeze already on the threads. Change the O2 with the exhaust stone cold.
 

BISCUT

Thread starter
Messages
3,014
I bought a 05 Sentra 1.8 new and the head gaskets are a big problem with them. My went at 32,000.

****! That is a negative experience for sure. Especially when you buy new. This one was bought from original owner. It even came with the original sticker. $16k in 2006 :D Base with few options added. Hasn't had any head gasket issues. No seeps either. Fingers crossed for sure!
 
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