New to Forum; Asking for Your Expertise

Messages
294
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Being new to this forum, I am studing all the abbreviations used in oil analysis/breakdown - what a chore! Perhaps you guys can simplfy something for me (hoefully without starting an arguement) concerning my choice of Red Line 5W-30. Pros? Cons? Better stuff out there? Thanks!
 

SHAMUS

Thread starter
Messages
294
Location
Puget Sound, WA
I have an 07 Ranger, 4.0L SOHC. It is two years old this Friday, with 8746 miles on the OD (yeah, not a misprint). It has a Magnaflow dual exhaust, K&N CAI, Superchips Cortex programming, and GMS 60k coil pack. I change the oil every 6 months, with well under 3k on it. Driving is like the old man that I am normally, but being one of the 60's musclecar era, once in a while the rear tires start smoking. (Can't believe I misspelled "hopefully" up there!)
 
Messages
10,008
Location
Upstate NY
Nice truck! I'd personally get a cheaper name-brand synthetic and run it for a year. Accumulate some miles on it before draining. Maybe spring for an oil analysis around month 9 to see if it can make the full year. And misspellings happen to the best of us.
 
Messages
6,917
Location
NH
Redline is one of the top 2-3 oils out there. If the cost doesn't bother you it is one heck of an oil. For such a short OCI( 6 months and 3K )and overall mild use you can run a cheaper synthetic and be fine. Nothing wrong with Redline though if you want to run it. Very good oil. The only CON to Redline for your application would be it will not meet warranty requirements. Redline oils are not API certified and that is a big deal to dealerships and car mfg's.
 
Last edited:

SHAMUS

Thread starter
Messages
294
Location
Puget Sound, WA
I am aware Red Line does't carry the API "starburst" but I thought it was because although they exceed the SM standard, their levels of zinc and phosphorus were too high for it? Of course, I have no clue as to what makes it "too high"; as opposed to what? What is the harm? Is this a case of "too much of a good thing?"
 
Messages
6,917
Location
NH
 Originally Posted By: Shamus
I am aware Red Line does't carry the API "starburst" but I thought it was because although they exceed the SM standard, their levels of zinc and phosphorus were too high for it? Of course, I have no clue as to what makes it "too high"; as opposed to what? What is the harm? Is this a case of "too much of a good thing?"
Redline oils are not API certified to any service level at all - period. The Starburst just means the oil meets the current highest service level which right now is SM plus it means the oil meets certain fuel economy standards. The issue is no API certification at all not that it is API SL/SM or doesn't have the Starburst. Having no API certification at all is a big deal to the dealerships and car mfg's. I actually worked Ford dealer parts & service and they take it VERY serious. Our dealer and Ford rep did anyway. As far as ZDDP that is an issue, so they say, dealing with emissions and trying to get a longer service life out of the cat converter. API SM lowered ZDDP for that reason. Having more ZDDP is not a bad thing for the engine as an SL oil with higher ZDDP can provide greater wear protection. Supposedly it means if your car burns oil it can cause an early cat faiilure. Again the issue would be Redline has no API certification at all. You could run an API SL oil, or even an API SM oil that does not have the starburst( not all SM's have it ), and at least you used an API certified oil so you would have some grounds to argue for warranty preservation for lubrication issues with your engine. What you would really be risking is your catalytic converter warranty. SL oils will protect the engine as good or even betetr than SM. Run a non API certified oil completely and that is a big red flag for them though. I actually run an API SL oil where an API oil with the Starburst is called for. The risk I am taking is for emmissions more so than the engine. None of this means Redline is bad, doesn't meet certain API service level spec's, or that it will harm anything. Car mfg's and dealers take actual API certification extremely seriously however. If the oil is not API certified at all, to any level( I would go no lower than API SL in your truck ), you are really asking for hassles if you have internal engine issues. You can get by with an oil that meets or exceeds the mfg's own oil standards, that is not actually certified as meeting the standard, as long as you can prove it but don't mess around with API certifications. In my experience they take that very serious.
 
Last edited:
With all that he listed on his truck he's got NO warranty on the engine if it had a issue.That Performance download he has listed killed that.Run that Redline and leave it in a year with no worrys.I run Amsoil 10w30 in my 98 Dodge 1500 and drive about three times the milage you listed.On top of that unless something has changed in 25 plus years in Dealer service depts I have NEVER been asked if so and so oil had a Starburst or even what weight it was as long as the vehicle was serviced in reasonable time frames IF there was a failure.
 
Messages
18,449
Location
East of IGO
Considering that most engines outlast the ownership of the vehicles what are you expecting to gain from using a syn oil? Redline oil is good stuff if you need the advantages that the oil has to offer. Does the engine need or require syn oil? Will you take advantage of the syn oil benefits?
 
Messages
595
Location
Cleveland, OH
 Originally Posted By: Shamus
Being new to this forum, I am studing all the abbreviations used in oil analysis/breakdown - what a chore! Perhaps you guys can simplfy something for me (hoefully without starting an arguement) concerning my choice of Red Line 5W-30. Pros? Cons? Better stuff out there? Thanks!
IM not an self proclaimed oil expert, so I won't guide you on Red Line. But I do have the same engine/tranny como in My 04 Ranger. I used Motorcraft syn blend 5w/30 for 10k, then switched to M1 5w30 for the next 25k. Ive had no issues with either formula. Ive lurked here for awhile now and recently joined, but you'll get a dozen contradicting answeres to any one question on this forum. But thats not to say there isnt good info to found here as well. It seems like the the answer to 50% of questions on this forum is: There is no one best oil, practice proper OCI's for your own driving conditions, stay away from Fram oil filters
 
Last edited:

SHAMUS

Thread starter
Messages
294
Location
Puget Sound, WA
HOUNDOG; Actually, my warrenty is intact. You see, I had the dealership (Ford) install the Magnaflow exhaust system. They are also an authorized dealer for Superchips - the Service Manager says just return the tune to stock level before bringing it in for warrenty work. And, in the SM's words, the K&N is no consideration for them. Back to the Red Line, I don't care about its cost, as only the longivity of the truck is my concern.
 
Messages
25,045
Location
ON, Canada eh?
If you still have warranty then use Amsoil XL-7500 series API licensed motor oil. It's a superb oil that produces good UOA's. Then you can switch to redline or another Amsoil oil that isn't licensed after the warranty period.
 

SHAMUS

Thread starter
Messages
294
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Going back to my original question, what are the differences between the oils you guys are recommending and Red Line (other than the API thingy). Those oil analysis abbreviations I mentioned and do not understand must show a "better than/worse than" value. Well, what are they?
 
Messages
282
Location
Central Valley, CA
Redline is subjectively the "best" oil I have ever used, and that includes Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, and Castrol Syntec (just to name a few). Redline is mostly made up of Group V esters and has been shown to be extremely shear-resistant. But I do have to agree with the others...Redline is overkill for such short OCI's.
 
The FACTORY REP would hang you and that dealer out to dry if even a hint of them doing what you say and a engine failure.Doesn't matter if that dealer OWNS Superchips.Ford is NOT going to fix something someone else's product tore up.Bet SUPERCHIPS has disclaomers about such all in their literture also.Your playing with fire in this economy.The factory's have been sending out many memos over the last few years to dealers on how to spot that a aftermarket download or performance box has been used.What your dealer whomever told you to return it to factory level is dishonest.He could bring down a audit on that store that could be very costly to the owner.They(manufactures)have been BUSTING the diesel crowd left and right for such.Dust the cyliners with a free flowing air filter and same deal.Anyhow YOU can believe you HAVE a engine warranty but I sure would not want to be in that situation if engine did have a issue.Being concerned with brands of oil is minor about engine durability concerning the MODS that you have.I just want the inexperienced reading these forums to know the consequences of doing such mods.As the OLD saying goes 'YOU PLAY.YOU PAY"
 
Last edited:
Messages
6,987
Location
Michigan
Redline: Pro: Awesome Ester based oil, High heat tolerance, Shear stable, Less likey to leave deposits, Low Noack, Strong load protection, Low pour point, High flash point. Con: Expensive, Hard to find locally, No API certs. **I say if you like it run it. The incidents of an oil related failure in engines IMO are next to nothing. But kill that 3,000 mile oil change habit. Ford doesn't call for that do they?
 
Last edited:
Messages
1,283
Location
Canada City, Canada
 Originally Posted By: Shamus
HOUNDOG; I don't care about its cost, as only the longivity of the truck is my concern.
You could use regular oil and not be able to tell the difference.
 
Messages
1,373
Location
Somerset County, PA
 Originally Posted By: hounddog
The FACTORY REP would hang you and that dealer out to dry if even a hint of them doing what you say and a engine failure.Doesn't matter if that dealer OWNS Superchips.Ford is NOT going to fix something someone else's product tore up.Bet SUPERCHIPS has disclaomers about such all in their literture also.Your playing with fire in this economy.The factory's have been sending out many memos over the last few years to dealers on how to spot that a aftermarket download or performance box has been used.What your dealer whomever told you to return it to factory level is dishonest.He could bring down a audit on that store that could be very costly to the owner.They(manufactures)have been BUSTING the diesel crowd left and right for such.Dust the cyliners with a free flowing air filter and same deal.Anyhow YOU can believe you HAVE a engine warranty but I sure would not want to be in that situation if engine did have a issue.Being concerned with brands of oil is minor about engine durability concerning the MODS that you have.I just want the inexperienced reading these forums to know the consequences of doing such mods.As the OLD saying goes 'YOU PLAY.YOU PAY"
+1 I would run as fast and as far as possible from any dealer who even mentioned doing something like that.
 
Top