New (to family) 2012 malibu with 2.4L

[volk06]

We found my mother-in-law a really nice lower mileage 2012 Malibu 2LT with 49K for a good price. Oil change history shows OCIs of 3-4k at dealerships/quick lube joints. Has new Michelin defenders on it and the trunk looks like it was never used. It was owned by an older couple who went south for the winters so it saw little winter driving and the under carriage confirms that.

Looking at future OCIs and starting with 5k OCIs (about a year).... I have plenty (too much really) of RTG 5w30 from last years AZ/APP clearance sale. Thinking about using the ST9018 for $2.97 as it is 99%, syn blend media, made in USA and good for 10k. Is ST still a champs lab product? I typically use Fram Tg or Ultra but they are $7-9 more and at 5K oci, I don't think I'd see a benefit to spending additional for no benefit. Anyone have any issues or problems with the ST9018 filter? Since its cartridge and not canister, don't have to worry about the ADBV or bypass construction.

Any other maintenance items on this model of Malibu that I should be aware of and keep and eye out for? I know the headlight can be a pain but more tedious than anything.

 

[hemitom]

i think the 2.4 in 2012 was still prone to eating its timing chain.
short oci and 5w30 should help as part of the problems were caused by high fuel dilution i believe.

 

[volk06]

i think the 2.4 in 2012 was still prone to eating its timing chain.
short oci and 5w30 should help as part of the problems were caused by high fuel dilution i believe.

High fuel dilution on a non-DI engine? If this is true, I'll put 4K ocis on the sticker so I get it back at 5K for an oci

 

[Trav]

Use a 0w40 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 or other dexos II in these ecotec engines, listen for rattle from the front of the engine (pass side fender) on cold startup, if caught early enough it may just need a tensioner or top guide otherwise the chain and guides have had it.
Change the coolant at spec intervals, the water pump is not really a backyard DIY for most people and quite pricey to do.


Using the correct oil and change it every 3-4K goes a long way in keeping these things from eating the chain. This engine was deloped by Saab and Opel and was designed for 0w40, Euro 5w30 HTHS 3.5+ not thinner dex I. There is no need to use 15w40, 20w50 and other thick stuff, thick enough but not too thick will do just fine.

Before anyone starts with the owners manual, running HTHS 3.5 and shorter OCI keeps the chains alive much longer than regular 5w30.

 

[edyvw]

Use a 0w40 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 or other dexos II in these ecotec engines, listen for rattle from the front of the engine (pass side fender) on cold startup, if caught early enough it may just need a tensioner or top guide otherwise the chain and guides have had it.
Change the coolant at spec intervals, the water pump is not really a backyard DIY for most people and quite pricey to do.


Using the correct oil and change it every 3-4K goes a long way in keeping these things from eating the chain. This engine was deloped by Saab and Opel and was designed for 0w40, Euro 5w30 HTHS 3.5+ not thinner dex I. There is no need to use 15w40, 20w50 and other thick stuff, thick enough but not too thick will do just fine.

Before anyone starts with the owners manual, running HTHS 3.5 and shorter OCI keeps the chains alive much longer than regular 5w30.

Yep, Opel engine=Euro oil!

 

[oldhp]

2012 should be the LEA version of the 2.4 engine. Pretty sure GM helped the chain problem by shortening the OCI % on the OLM. My 2012 Equinox OLM was reflashed, you could see the difference right away. Change oil/filter out at no more than 3K and you should be OK.

 

[TeamZero]

Use a 0w40 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 or other dexos II in these ecotec engines, listen for rattle from the front of the engine (pass side fender) on cold startup, if caught early enough it may just need a tensioner or top guide otherwise the chain and guides have had it.
Change the coolant at spec intervals, the water pump is not really a backyard DIY for most people and quite pricey to do.


Using the correct oil and change it every 3-4K goes a long way in keeping these things from eating the chain. This engine was deloped by Saab and Opel and was designed for 0w40, Euro 5w30 HTHS 3.5+ not thinner dex I. There is no need to use 15w40, 20w50 and other thick stuff, thick enough but not too thick will do just fine.

Before anyone starts with the owners manual, running HTHS 3.5 and shorter OCI keeps the chains alive much longer than regular 5w30.

What about the 2.2 in a 10 cobalt? Got the daughter a mint low mile one...Right now its on M1 esp5w30, as thats what I use in my other cars.

 

[Blinker]

The VVT 2.2 - 2.4 Ecotec engines have a history of stretching the timing chains. The engines I’ve see with stretched chains appeared to have been poorly maintained. Varnish and light sludge throughout the engine. I would do 5K oci with 5w-30 synthetic of your choice and call it a day. I like the Hengst oil filter for these but I also use the Fram line of oil filters.

 

[Blinker]

2012 should be the LEA version of the 2.4 engine. Pretty sure GM helped the chain problem by shortening the OCI % on the OLM. My 2012 Equinox OLM was reflashed, you could see the difference right away. Change oil/filter out at no more than 3K and you should be OK.

Couldn’t have been more incorrect if you tried. The 2012 Malibu used the port injected LE5 engine.

 

[edyvw]

What about the 2.2 in a 10 cobalt? Got the daughter a mint low mile one...Right now its on M1 esp5w30, as thats what I use in my other cars.

Trav could no more, but I think that is also Opel kitchen.

 

[SteveG4]

My 2013 2.4L had its chain, guides, and tensioners replaced at 110,000 miles -- it wasn't cheap. Since then, I've moved my Equinox to either Castrol or Mobil 1 0W-40 "Euro" oil, rated SN (whatever is cheaper at the time of purchase). It was the right thing to do.

My remaining D1G2 5W-30 stash will be used in my 2006 Alaskan Silverado. Once its gone, I'll switch it over to 0W-40 as well.

 

[Trav]

What about the 2.2 in a 10 cobalt? Got the daughter a mint low mile one...Right now its on M1 esp5w30, as thats what I use in my other cars.

Same engine family, ditto the 2.0, 2.3 all turbo and normally aspirated the M1 ESP 5w30 is a good oil for these engines as is the 0w40 all have a HTHS of 3.5 and above. The big difference is the amount of zinc in the 0w40, I use the ESP 5w30 but add one ounce of zinc per quart.
Timing chains do not stretch they wear at the rollers and pins which gives the appearance of stretching, the higher zinc content keeps them in good shape much longer.
The later engines can be done in the car without pulling the head and oil pan the early iron block ones require a much greater tear down.

It is possible to replace just the chain from the top by attaching it to the original and rolling it through which works okay as long as the guides are not toasted. I use iwis chains if I do one this way and as replacement if doing a complete job.
Three styles of tensioner were used in these engines, even the latest variant is prone to sticking with varnish which a whole other story, some of the PCV valves are no longer made even by aftermarket and require intake removal to replace if you find one so it is better to prevent it with more frequent OCI.

Posting this additive will no doubt raise controversy but I will post it anyway (if you don't want to use it just run M1 or Castrol 0w40 it has enough). I use one ounce per qt, I have no other dosing info for other products but UOA show this rate to bring a 900ppm zinc oil up to about 1100-1200 which appears to be ideal.

Amazon.com

On the plus side these are really well built engines, forged internals, sodium filled valves and can handle a lot of boost well into the over 400HP range and hold together. The correct oil and short OCI is a must for keeping the minor issues at bay, no big deal for a Bitoger, who doesnt like to change their oil with some nice synthetic sauce.

 

[Ram02]

Same engine family, ditto the 2.0, 2.3 all turbo and normally aspirated the M1 ESP 5w30 is a good oil for these engines as is the 0w40 all have a HTHS of 3.5 and above. The big difference is the amount of zinc in the 0w40, I use the ESP 5w30 but add one ounce of zinc per quart.
Timing chains do not stretch they wear at the rollers and pins which gives the appearance of stretching, the higher zinc content keeps them in good shape much longer.
The later engines can be done in the car without pulling the head and oil pan the early iron block ones require a much greater tear down.

It is possible to replace just the chain from the top by attaching it to the original and rolling it through which works okay as long as the guides are not toasted. I use iwis chains if I do one this way and as replacement if doing a complete job.
Three styles of tensioner were used in these engines, even the latest variant is prone to sticking with varnish which a whole other story, some of the PCV valves are no longer made even by aftermarket and require intake removal to replace if you find one so it is better to prevent it with more frequent OCI.

Posting this additive will no doubt raise controversy but I will post it anyway (if you don't want to use it just run M1 or Castrol 0w40 it has enough). I use one ounce per qt, I have no other dosing info for other products but UOA show this rate to bring a 900ppm zinc oil up to about 1100-1200 which appears to be ideal.

Amazon.com

On the plus side these are really well built engines, forged internals, sodium filled valves and can handle a lot of boost well into the over 400HP range and hold together. The correct oil and short OCI is a must for keeping the minor issues at bay, no big deal for a Bitoger, who doesnt like to change their oil with some nice synthetic sauce.

Is Mobil 1 ESP easy to get ??? I haven’t seen them in Walmart

 

[Trav]

Sure, Napa has it on sale for a great price (under $6 a qt) few times a year. ESP is one of their best.

 

[volk06]

Same engine family, ditto the 2.0, 2.3 all turbo and normally aspirated the M1 ESP 5w30 is a good oil for these engines as is the 0w40 all have a HTHS of 3.5 and above. The big difference is the amount of zinc in the 0w40, I use the ESP 5w30 but add one ounce of zinc per quart.
Timing chains do not stretch they wear at the rollers and pins which gives the appearance of stretching, the higher zinc content keeps them in good shape much longer.
The later engines can be done in the car without pulling the head and oil pan the early iron block ones require a much greater tear down.

It is possible to replace just the chain from the top by attaching it to the original and rolling it through which works okay as long as the guides are not toasted. I use iwis chains if I do one this way and as replacement if doing a complete job.
Three styles of tensioner were used in these engines, even the latest variant is prone to sticking with varnish which a whole other story, some of the PCV valves are no longer made even by aftermarket and require intake removal to replace if you find one so it is better to prevent it with more frequent OCI.

Posting this additive will no doubt raise controversy but I will post it anyway (if you don't want to use it just run M1 or Castrol 0w40 it has enough). I use one ounce per qt, I have no other dosing info for other products but UOA show this rate to bring a 900ppm zinc oil up to about 1100-1200 which appears to be ideal.

Amazon.com

On the plus side these are really well built engines, forged internals, sodium filled valves and can handle a lot of boost well into the over 400HP range and hold together. The correct oil and short OCI is a must for keeping the minor issues at bay, no big deal for a Bitoger, who doesnt like to change their oil with some nice synthetic sauce.

Thanks for the info. Sounds the like RGT doesn’t have a high enough hths or zinc. Thoughts on a cheaper HDEO 10w-30 for non-winter months? That would have higher hths and more zinc. Thinking Motorcraft HD, premium blue or rotella T5 as those are all synblend 10w30s that can be had cheaper than M1 or Edge. T5 looks like it has good cold weather properties. https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/8a93dba2-e296-45e6-a19d-8baf0e709362.pdf

 

[Trav]

In my 02 Viggen I used 5w40 Delo 400 LE (1200 ppm zinc) for a long time but now use the ESP with a shot of zinc. The Delo LE was great but it is becoming hard to find.

 

[Blinker]

I’ve been around the 2.2 Ecotec for years now. I currently have over 210,000 miles on one and I’ve used 5w-30 synthetic it’s whole life. I used M1 AFE 0w-30 for a couple oci though. I don’t see the need for 0w-40 personally. The ones I’ve seen fail have been run on conventional oil following the oil life monitor (or longer). To me 5w-30 is more than adequate for the 2.0 - 2.4 Ecotec. The 2.4 DI had issues and GM tried to resolve the problems but oil type won’t help the design flaw in those. My advice is to use a 5w-30 synthetic and change it out at 5,000 miles and use the ACDelco Hengst oil filter.

 

[Trav]

You cant paint these with a broad brush, some were easier on oil than others and some are pretty high strung. Put 5w30 non Euro in mine and you will need an engine in a fairly short time.
Some have small sumps some larger that plays a roll also. You say you have been around them a long time, how many have you built or rebuilt and what wear did you see?

 

[Blinker]

I’ve not rebuilt any. I’m not an engine builder or career mechanic. I’ve been around them since the Saturn Ion Redline came on scene and soon after with the Cobalt SS and have had numerous friends with them at the time. At the time most of them were running M1 5w-30, Amsoil 5w-30, and German Castrol 0w-30. The issues that I have personal seen are failed timing chain guides, which GM later revised the tensioner. And in my brothers shop I’ve seen burnt exhaust valves on the 07+ 2.2 and have seen failed crankshaft bearings (rare). What I have noticed is these engines do not handle sludge or varnish well.

 

[Trav]

German Castrol 0w40 is almost a 0w40 and is a great oil. The original ratchet tooth type tensioners were an issue the bleed on the second gen also. These chains wear a lot depending on how its driven. You could drive a 1.8 ecotec mostly on the highway for 300K and never have a problem where a 2.0T in mixed driving can really have some wear issues up front.
The most important part of the oil is the zinc content and the OCI with these, the GM 3.6 had similar wear issues. Not all suffered from it like these but its not something you really want to get into, better to prevent it if possible.