My car is 3300 pounds with full tank, without driver and has 200 bhp /300 lb ft, so weight is similar to yours (nearly empty tank, 200 lb driver
What do you think of those acceleration/braking numbers?My car is 3300 pounds with full tank, without driver and has 200 bhp /300 lb ft, so weight is similar to yours (nearly empty tank, 200 lb driver
0-60 of under 4 on this car is extremely fast/good with the mods/power I have. Keep in mind while Haldex Gen 5 is v. good, you still always get some spin up front like a fwd car using launch control. The only cars I've seen better than this on the Dragy leader boards/other interwebz leaderboards for this platform have "big" turbos and custom tunes. I'd say this car has plenty of traction. The issue with the tires is that while the summers I have in the garage ready to install on my new wheels will hook better, they need to be used when it's warm and when it's warm I'm not hitting times like this. I'll state it again - these are superb all season performance tires for all-around use if you don't live where it's v. cold/snows a lot.Braking is excellent, but is mostly handled by 2 front tyres... acceleration should be able to go higher imo. Not saying it's not good, I only wish I could shave another 1.3 seconds off my time.
I'd want to know where the engine power is going, it's not all getting onto the ground
Ok...messed around a bit and deactivated straight ahead brake stabilization as well as hydraulic brake assist. Did some ~80 to 10 hard slows and yes seems to be more controlled feeling without ABS kicking on early.While that makes plenty of sense with stock 312 mm rotors, not necessary perhaps with the BBK.
It's probably a good idea testing how good the BBK handles track duty, and then if it doesn't get
too hot try the factory XDS setting again.
Leaving the Emergency Brake/Hydraulic Brake Assist setting alone is a mistake. It makes a huge
difference with just costing you five minutes of your time if you have VCDS. I'd say it's a must do.
That said, I'd also reconsider upgrading to vented 310 mm rear rotors. I'm going to do a similar
mod to our little Cooper even though it won't ever see any track use. Stock is 280 mm front and
259 mm rear, same as any R55/R56 One, Cooper and even Cooper SD. It's quite easy to upgrade
to Cooper S (not SD) 294 mm fronts and JCW 280 mm rears as the calipers remain the same and
I just need the corresponding carriers, rotors and pads. I'm aware you'd need new calipers but it
will be worth the effort I bet as it will very most probably work much more in harmony with the
BBK on front.
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Good write up and your comments on the AS3s falls in-line with what I have experienced with the PS4s...on a public road if you can't drive these hard there are other issues going on. I have a new (to me) set of Conti Extreme Contact Sports (235/40s) mounted on some new wheels for my next HPDE and warm weather duties. For $400 and 7-8/32" evenly worn local pick up I couldn't pass them up vs. some cheapie 200tw deals I could have done. Will be interesting to me as someone that has never had anything buy UHP AS tires to see what all the hub-bub with summer performance tires is about!*WARNING* Long post.
Totally subjective review between the Michelin A/S3s and Conti DSW 06s. Michies are on my 2017 GLI, Contis on the Dad Wagon (2010 Passat Komfort with VR6 4-Motion front brakes). Michelins are very good for what they are, albeit a bit stiffer riding due to heavier sidewall. Well anything with a S). Excellent in he rain, work well in light snow (had 5" recently, first snow in 4 years), stick like glue in the dry/summer, and wear pretty well. Very good under braking and communicate superbly, turn-in is very fast reacting. They have about 34K and are about 1/32 from the wear bars. They are definitely noisier as they wear. Spirited driving style and only get greasy on mountain road blitzes in the summer. Otherwise, a great tire choice for an UHP all-season. I expect the A/S4s to be similar.
Continentals are a perfect fit for the fat, lazy wagon as they ride like marshmallows compared to the Ms. They are squirmy when pushed, but some of that comes from the tired shocks/struts and bushings on a 130K machine. They stick pretty well, wear like iron, and are super quiet. A little "slow" under braking, but they do tell you whats going on, though not quite as clearly as the Michelins. Excellent grip in the rain and did very well in the recent snow. They can go about 7/10s of the Michelins when you want to push them (I don't). I do run them a bit higher on pressure @ 39psi which neutralizes handling at the rear, cuts some understeer, and gives a bit firmer, more direct feel. They have maybe another 15K in them and I will probably switch to the A/S4s once I get my suspension modded and braking finalized to take advantage of the slightly higher performance of the Michelins. I break it down this way:
Comfort-go with the Contis
Performance (relative)-Michelins
Now before I get assailed about all seasons and their inherent compromise, on my former GTIs I did run dedicated tires for the seasons. Michelin PSSs for summer use, and Nokian Hakkas when the white stuff flew. Kept the PSSs on all the time after I started hibernating the most recent GTI except for pretty winter days. Again, we do not get that much snow, more ice than anything, and I don't track anymore, so the need for dedicated tires isn't necessary for me now. Like TiGeo, UHP A/Ss fit the bill just fine for the time being. BUT, if I start back HDPE, I would do dedicated track tires (with a more track-worthy daily). Way more fun and teach you so much more than a UHP A/S ever could. Swapping is super simple with Makita battery impact and a 12v Quick Jack in the pit .
These are the SM-10s by Apex Racing Parts - check them out:Tasty! Nice price too, what wheels are they? Yep, i'm bettin' you'll feel a difference. My experience with those Continentals is they are pretty forgiving and give plenty of notice at the limit. Good snag.