New Subaru FB25 - Taking Suggestions

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Now that I've amassed a stash of 0w-40 and 0w-30, I got rid of the car I was planning on using them in. So I'll find alternate uses for it. Vehicle is a 2018 Forester 2.5I 6MT. More prone to oil consumption. Obviously it's under warranty so 0w-20 is the only thing I will consider for it. I don't think it matters one way or another - all 0w-20s are the same for the most part. Usage will be a 20 mile round trip commute to work. Weekends will be spent on road trips, towing my camper or utility trailer for building supplies (though, I could use the 1-ton truck for that ...). Once it's out of warranty, or once I know I don't have an oil burner I will start using the 0w-30 and 0w-40 in it. As long as I can keep it from rusting out, this will by my forever car. Suggest me some 0w-20s! I'm approaching 1K miles and would like to do an early change before winter. I seem to think that Castrol Edge 0w-20 is "better" than M1 AFE, but have no evidence.
 
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For the variable valve timing system of the FB to operate within design, it relies on the viscosity being 0W20 or 5W20. I would not run a heavier weight oil than that.
 
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Do you plan on doing oil changes yourself? I personally would just take it to the dealership till warranty is up. At the heart of it my car has simular internals (older EJ25), the externals are vastly different and it pushes out a lot more power. But with that said it has never burned a drop of oil. Had a diet of 5w30 at the dealer, then has been on 5w40 after warranty. My manual specs anything from 5w30 to 10w50 depending on climate/conditions. I imagine yours being strictly 0w20, is due largely to fuel economy or maybe emissions being a pzev vehicle. Unless there is somethong else new with the FB25 valves or clearances
 

SwampSurvivor

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I thought about going to the dealer, maybe after the initial change I do myself I will. But $60 oil changes are not fun ... The dog probably would get a free toy from them, though. I'm assuming, should I end up with an oil burner, dealer changes would be easier to track. I think it's more emissions, the FB25 has all sorts of viscosities recommended around the world. I wouldn't run a 10w-XX or 15w-XX in it, that's fore sure. But a Five-dubya or Zero-dubya anything I'd be fine with.
 
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Weve owned 7 or 9 Subaru over the years from the lil Justy 3 banger to a lusty SVX 6. The Viscosity doesn't matter that much and these engine like a thicker oil than Subaru wants youto use. In fact their Idemtsu 0w20 is quite horrid. I would amend at least 1 qt with a 30 grade. Valvoline 0w20 has been found to be excellent in our use with QSUD a close second. Valvoline was the cleanest running with showing less timing chain/ tensioner racket at startup. I would start by using 1 qt Valvoline VR1 racing 10w30 synthetic to the balance of Valvoline 0w20 Syn. And see how it runs. A MT ABSOLUTELY needs more viscosity due to shock loading. The Owners Manuall allows for this though they are bound by CAFE to "semi-hide" this information. Dealers don't care or could EVER know what the viscosity is in the car; They just want to see proof of timely oil and filter changes. M0bil 1 never worked well in this application, so I would stay away. And yes we even tried the vaunted M1EP PAO - EXxons only ILSAC Synthetic oil - regardless of what rubbish they put on the bottle. Have fun with your MT - good value choice. Let me know if they ever got their shock and spring rate sorted out. Only Fair-Poor ride was my biggest complaint with the car other than the too small seats. They fixed the outward sight lines with this Toyota -aided redesign.
 
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Originally Posted By: Miller88
As long as I can keep it from rusting out, this will by my forever car.
- Consider learning how to thoroughly DIY rustproof your car or spend the measly $120/year to get it treated at Krown,Rust Check, Corrosion Free, or CarWell. In my experience, it's the weld seams and other internal locations where rust attacks from the inside out. - Make sure that deer and other drivers understand your intentions!
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Weve owned 7 or 9 Subaru over the years from the lil Justy 3 banger to a lusty SVX 6. The Viscosity doesn't matter that much and these engine like a thicker oil than Subaru wants youto use. In fact their Idemtsu 0w20 is quite horrid. I would amend at least 1 qt with a 30 grade. Valvoline 0w20 has been found to be excellent in our use with QSUD a close second. Valvoline was the cleanest running with showing less timing chain/ tensioner racket at startup. I would start by using 1 qt Valvoline VR1 racing 10w30 synthetic to the balance of Valvoline 0w20 Syn. And see how it runs. A MT ABSOLUTELY needs more viscosity due to shock loading. The Owners Manuall allows for this though they are bound by CAFE to "semi-hide" this information. Dealers don't care or could EVER know what the viscosity is in the car; They just want to see proof of timely oil and filter changes. P M0bil 1 never worked well in this application, so I would stay away. And yes we even tried the vaunted M1EP PAO - EXxons only ILSAC Synthetic oil - regardless of what rubbish they put on the bottle. Have fun with your MT - good value choice. Let me know if they ever got their shock and spring rate sorted out. Only Fair-Poor ride was my biggest complaint with the car other than the too small seats. They fixed the outward sight lines with this Toyota -aided redesign.
If Subarus in fact like a "thicker" oil and the OP wants to stay with 0w-20, I'd suggest looking at the PDS for 0w-20s as they are reformulated for Dexos1 Gen2. For example, Pennzoil Platinum has become thicker, Valvoline thinner, Mobil the same and Castrol is unknown. May not matter, but this is BITOG...
 
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Originally Posted By: Miller88
Now that I've amassed a stash of 0w-40 and 0w-30, I got rid of the car I was planning on using them in. So I'll find alternate uses for it. Vehicle is a 2018 Forester 2.5I 6MT. More prone to oil consumption. Obviously it's under warranty so 0w-20 is the only thing I will consider for it. I don't think it matters one way or another - all 0w-20s are the same for the most part. Usage will be a 20 mile round trip commute to work. Weekends will be spent on road trips, towing my camper or utility trailer for building supplies (though, I could use the 1-ton truck for that ...). Once it's out of warranty, or once I know I don't have an oil burner I will start using the 0w-30 and 0w-40 in it. As long as I can keep it from rusting out, this will by my forever car. Suggest me some 0w-20s! I'm approaching 1K miles and would like to do an early change before winter. I seem to think that Castrol Edge 0w-20 is "better" than M1 AFE, but have no evidence.
Break it in right, no cruise the first 1000 miles and hard acceleration and deceleration in all gears with max (IIRC) rpm 4000 during that time. I had a '15 Outback, same engine, and it used zero oil after following those instructions. You probably wouldn't like (or take) my oil recommendation so I'll leave the recommendations to others.
 

SwampSurvivor

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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Weve owned 7 or 9 Subaru over the years from the lil Justy 3 banger to a lusty SVX 6. The Viscosity doesn't matter that much and these engine like a thicker oil than Subaru wants youto use. In fact their Idemtsu 0w20 is quite horrid. I would amend at least 1 qt with a 30 grade. Valvoline 0w20 has been found to be excellent in our use with QSUD a close second. Valvoline was the cleanest running with showing less timing chain/ tensioner racket at startup. I would start by using 1 qt Valvoline VR1 racing 10w30 synthetic to the balance of Valvoline 0w20 Syn. And see how it runs. A MT ABSOLUTELY needs more viscosity due to shock loading. The Owners Manuall allows for this though they are bound by CAFE to "semi-hide" this information. Dealers don't care or could EVER know what the viscosity is in the car; They just want to see proof of timely oil and filter changes. M0bil 1 never worked well in this application, so I would stay away. And yes we even tried the vaunted M1EP PAO - EXxons only ILSAC Synthetic oil - regardless of what rubbish they put on the bottle. Have fun with your MT - good value choice. Let me know if they ever got their shock and spring rate sorted out. Only Fair-Poor ride was my biggest complaint with the car other than the too small seats. They fixed the outward sight lines with this Toyota -aided redesign.
The manual is also geared pretty low. It screms on the highway! almost 3K at 70! But I do like that it has an actual 1st gear. Had a heck of a time getting one with a manual. Everyone wants the CVT. This really reminds me of my Cherokee when I got it (stock). I can see out of it, basic SUV-ish thing. Interesting suggestion on the racing oil. Makes sense for break-in though.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Originally Posted By: Miller88
As long as I can keep it from rusting out, this will by my forever car.
- Consider learning how to thoroughly DIY rustproof your car or spend the measly $120/year to get it treated at Krown,Rust Check, Corrosion Free, or CarWell. In my experience, it's the weld seams and other internal locations where rust attacks from the inside out. - Make sure that deer and other drivers understand your intentions!
The last car was doing great with the DIY used motor oil spray. Unfortunately, I think it started to eat the bushings out of the suspension. There were many pine trees where I used to live. They plugged up all the drains and the rockers rusted from the inside out as did the floor pans - for the last 2 years, every time it would rain, the rockers and trunk would drain into the drivers side floorpans.
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Break it in right, no cruise the first 1000 miles and hard acceleration and deceleration in all gears with max (IIRC) rpm 4000 during that time. I had a '15 Outback, same engine, and it used zero oil after following those instructions. You probably wouldn't like (or take) my oil recommendation so I'll leave the recommendations to others.
Oh, yes. That's the breakin it's getting laugh What's your oil recommendation?
 
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I used Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20 in my FB20 up to 60K miles until it changed to GTL and disappeared off the shelves. Since then I've used various versions of Mobil 1, Castrol and Royal Purple and couldn't tell the difference in either with the exception of Magnatec 0W-20 making the engine noticeably quieter at startup.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
M0bil 1 never worked well in this application, so I would stay away. And yes we even tried the vaunted M1EP PAO
What was the issue?
 

gathermewool

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Originally Posted By: LoneRanger
For the variable valve timing system of the FB to operate within design, it relies on the viscosity being 0W20 or 5W20. I would not run a heavier weight oil than that.
I've never experienced this with any VVT car. Besides, the oil temp may be less than operating temp for a good portion of your drive, but the tune will allow for full use of power based on coolant temp. It's not as if the VVT is like a hydraulic CVT, and minor changes in hydraulic viscosity may make a difference. So, while I've read that viscosity affects VVT anectodally, I've never personally experienced it and can't see how the actuator will shift with 100C viscosity of 8 cSt, but not 10. I can understand how cold operation might be affected by a massive viscosity difference, but to say one needs to stick with X-20 and never run anything heavier because of VVT concerns doesn't make sense to me
Originally Posted By: mcwilly
Do you plan on doing oil changes yourself? I personally would just take it to the dealership till warranty is up. At the heart of it my car has simular internals (older EJ25), the externals are vastly different and it pushes out a lot more power. But with that said it has never burned a drop of oil. Had a diet of 5w30 at the dealer, then has been on 5w40 after warranty. My manual specs anything from 5w30 to 10w50 depending on climate/conditions. I imagine yours being strictly 0w20, is due largely to fuel economy or maybe emissions being a pzev vehicle. Unless there is somethong else new with the FB25 valves or clearances
Dealer oil changes are not required for warranty purposes. I would stick with the recommended viscosity, however, if you're concerned. Unfortunately, your EJ257 is vastly different than the OP's FB25. Completely different beasts. My old EJ257 didn't burn oil either, nor does my FA20DIT. It appears that my non-performance Legacy has a small amount of consumption, however. Nature of the beast and design constraints.
 
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I have a '16 Forester with a 2.5. It has around 23k on it now. I've used various 0w-20's, all from Walmart. Penzoil,Mobil, Castrol, and Valvoline. No difference in milage,performance, or consumption(none). So I'd say use what you want or switch when you feel like it.
 

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Congrats on the purchase! I've put a few hundred miles on my SIL's 2016 Forester Premium with the 6spd manual and found it decent to drive for a Subaru stick. If you're looking for a sporty feel, you're going to be disappointed. In regards to "must use" 0w20, I dunno. I know it recommends it in the owner's manual and I've owned 3 new Subarus since 2012. I ran 5w30, 5w20 and 0w20 in my 2014 XV Crosstrek 5spd that would consume oil sporadically. No difference in startup noise, fuel economy or consumption was noticed. I've run 5w20 in my 2016 Forester CVT with the same results. My 2012 Legacy with the EJ253 recommened 5w30, but still had the old school chart in the manual based on ambient temps that recommended up to 40 and maybe even 50wts. Going to a Subaru dealership for a 0w20 oil change is something like $60 in the Buffalo area. I'm sure this will vary by region. I can't see spending a ton on oil for the recommended 6000 mile max OCI. Rust proofing a late model Subaru will be interesting. Look under one. Almost the entire underbody is covered with flat plastic panels for aerodynamics/fuel economy. I'd imagine, they'll hold the drippings like big baking sheets.
 
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Originally Posted By: 6starprez
I used Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20 in my FB20 up to 60K miles until it changed to GTL and disappeared off the shelves. Since then I've used various versions of Mobil 1, Castrol and Royal Purple and couldn't tell the difference in either with the exception of Magnatec 0W-20 making the engine noticeably quieter at startup.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
M0bil 1 never worked well in this application, so I would stay away. And yes we even tried the vaunted M1EP PAO
What was the issue?
Other than noise increase, it performed mid pack AFA deposits seem around the VVT mechanism and fuel mileage. So M1Ep bought us nothing. The around 20 bucks QSUD is hard to beat but again I liked Valvoline over all best, especially for cleanliness. If it was my DD instead of the Wife's I could have another assessment. Ill amend my statement. Stay away from the pricy Genuine Subaru stuff (back when I used it it was almost a 0w16 and they went to no moly) and dino. I don't think we saw a fuel mileage difference with anything either; gas is nasty around here so that would be the biggest engine performance/drivability variable. Def don't run 0w20 alone with the stick. Also the FF is excellent don't dump it early!!! You wont put anything that good in there. Don't know what it is or if it's just ENEOS with the extra assembly lube magic. Do whatever and have fun!
 
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I get good UOA's from 5w20 Amsoil and their 0w20 is just as good. I have a VVT engine as well. Plus with their discount program (preferred customer membership) and points it's cheaper than off the shelf synthetic for me. (Might be different in the US but worth considering.) Plus they guarantee 100% protection against LSPI (If that is a concern)
 
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I've used M1, Castrol Edge, PP and VSP in a friend's 2012 Forester - yes it does drink oil. I notice it drinks much less on Castrol or PP but it's thirsty on M1. It sounds quieter on both with either the OEM or aftermarket Frams. I'd stick to 0W-20 for the warranty period and then experiment when powertrain warranty is up. I think after this current OCI, I'll switch this over to MaxLife 5W-20.
 
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Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Break it in right, no cruise the first 1000 miles and hard acceleration and deceleration in all gears with max (IIRC) rpm 4000 during that time. I had a '15 Outback, same engine, and it used zero oil after following those instructions. You probably wouldn't like (or take) my oil recommendation so I'll leave the recommendations to others.
Oh, yes. That's the breakin it's getting laugh What's your oil recommendation?
You may recall I have been using Amsoil since 2004. Always solid UOAs. I have started to take a look at Schaeffer, after the really good UOA on the truck.
 
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Originally Posted By: Miller88
I don't think it matters one way or another - all 0w-20s are the same for the most part.
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Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: LoneRanger
For the variable valve timing system of the FB to operate within design, it relies on the viscosity being 0W20 or 5W20. I would not run a heavier weight oil than that.
I've never experienced this with any VVT car.
Same for me. I've heard of it before, but this is surprising given that 5W40 is allowed in Japan in all turbos, the BRZ, and the H6.
 
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