New Snow Blower Purchased...

[NHHEMI]

I just bit the bullet and bought a new snow blower yesterday. Last winter just took what was left out of my 1996 MTD 22" snow blower w/ Techumsa motor. I loved that snow blower. Well, more specifically the motor. Best small engine I have ever had.

I really have used it hard over the years and I frankly have been impressed with how well it held up. It ran for 2-4 hours every storm pretty much. Best $479 I ever spent on something like this. The body and drive line have finally just worn out though or are getting there anyway. The motor still starts on the 1st pull and runs good although it is starting to burn some oil. I could probably limp it through a mild winter but another one like last year and it would not make it for what I need it to do.

I have to have a dependable blower as I can not shovel anymore due to illness(MS) so I have been looking for a new snow blower for a couple years now as the MTD got older and began to wear out. It kept hanging on though and I kept saying 1 more year, 1 more year. It was time though and I knew this year was it. Yesterday I was at HD and saw a couple sitting there and decided to pounce while I could after trying to replace it last winter and no snow blowers were to be found anywhere.

I ended up with a 24" 2-stage Ariens Sno-Tek. It has electric start which I don't want/won't use but it seems that is all you can find these days. You almost never see manual start ones here anymore. I had/have concerns about the LCT engine( never heard of them before this - more China junk I guess but short of spending a small mint that is what you get )but I could not justify the expense of buying a different snow blower with a better/known engine for hundreds and hundreds more. It was actually $300 more to buy the top of the line Ariens version of the 24" 2-stage snow blower I got. The same exact thing as the one I got just with a light and a Brigg's & Stratton engine. Same case, driveline, etc... but $300 more.

Hoping I didn't make a mistake? I know this is the economy line from Ariens but Ariens seems to be a reputable company when it comes to snow blowers. As I said above the motor is really the only difference between them. Maybe the paint/powder cooat isn't as good as well. Otherwise it is the same base snow blower as the top of the line Ariens. For $100 more I got an extra 3 years of warranty so I now have 5. If it makes it 5 years without problems I guess I will be happy. It would be nice to see 15+ years out of this one the way I did the MTD but I doubt it. I wonder if it will go the 5 years without issues or if I will need that extra warranty?

What say you, did I make a mistake?

Here are the 2 I considered. As you can see they are basically the same thing except for the engine and one has a light and the other doesn't. The regular Ariens is 1" taller but I assumne that is to accomodate the different cross piece with the light( different handle bars? ). It weighs 4lbs more but that is probably the engine difference and light/different handle bars. Other than that they are the same. The cheaper Sno-Tek with the LCT engine actually has more power and is larger so in theory it should be able to handle a little more snow.

Gues this winter will tell. Probably won't get any snow now.

 

[barfan]

I bought an Ariens compact 22" last year and was leary of the LCT engine and looked around until I found one with a Subaru engine on it, I think it was $699 at Home Depot. But it looks like all of the smaller Ariens come with LCT engines now so you made the next best choice. Believe me, Ariens blowers are way better than any MTD made unit like Troy Bilt, Cub Cadet, Huskee etc., no comparison.

 

[Donald]

I think a light is needed to blow snow at night. I tried with a snow blower in one hand and a flashlight in the other and it was very difficult. My 1970 Montgomery Wards snow blower has no light. I bought late in the season a "head" light for my head and will try it this winter.

The Chinese have cloned a Honda engine and its in some products now. You can replace the parts with Honda parts. Maybe thats what LCT is? HF sells replacement engines and I am sure they are a Chinese cloned engine.

 

[eljefino]

The chondas are fine. You can get a bolt in replacement for $99 from harbor freight if you have an issue. It may not have the magneto output for the headlight-- but you could take things apart to mix and match if you really felt a need. Some cart racers consider the chonda as a "complete spare parts kit". A new tecumseh carb can be $70?

Going to keep the MTD in "ready reserve"? I keep a spare blower because I consider them the most important piece of OPE... ahead of the generator, chainsaw, and finally the lawnmower.

I "believe" the sno-tek has a plastic discharge chute vs metal on an Ariens. No biggie, IMO, unless you use a propane torch to melt ice jams.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
The chondas are fine. You can get a bolt in replacement for $99 from harbor freight if you have an issue.


Agreed. It's not like you have much of a choice these days anyway. You've either got an OHV Briggs snow engine or a Chonda for all your machines now (aside from Honda and rare stuff like Yamaha).

The Briggs snow series are great, but I'm sure they're not like the larger flat-heads of yesteryear as far as toughness, simplicity and longevity.

Joel

 

[Donald]

FWIW - a parts guy that I get chainsaw parts from said basically MTD has ruined every brand they have bought.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
The chondas are fine. You can get a bolt in replacement for $99 from harbor freight if you have an issue. It may not have the magneto output for the headlight-- but you could take things apart to mix and match if you really felt a need. Some cart racers consider the chonda as a "complete spare parts kit". A new tecumseh carb can be $70?

Going to keep the MTD in "ready reserve"? I keep a spare blower because I consider them the most important piece of OPE... ahead of the generator, chainsaw, and finally the lawnmower.

I "believe" the sno-tek has a plastic discharge chute vs metal on an Ariens. No biggie, IMO, unless you use a propane torch to melt ice jams.

I gave the snowblower to my Brother to have at his house to clean up after he plows. It will be able to handle that light duty for years still to come. I just have too much to do with it here for it to hold up much longer. If the new one broke down I could run up and grab the old one for a while until it was fixed/replaced. I don't have room to keep 2 here anyway.

I don't need a light. I only mentioned it as one of the differences between the two models. I wouldn't mind one but it really is not needed for me. Between the street lights and outside lights I don't need it.

The chute on my Sno-Tek is the same metal one as on the regular Ariens. Just painted black.

 

[NHHEMI]

Well, I serviced the new blower today and got it ready to go.

Step 1 = READ OWNER'S MANUAL!!!!!

Was surprised to learn the blower has a serviceable gear box( i.e. fluid )and actual grease fittings that take real grease!

Maybe it will last a while.

Step 2 = Changed out the nasty, [censored], stuff they called oil in the crankcase. It was supposed to come full but it had only 6-8 ounces of the 16 ounces called for. Used some Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 I had on hand. Used the recommended 5W-30. They want it changed after the 1st 2 hours of service so after the 1st storm this winter I will change it again and start using RP 5W-30.

NOTE - Changing the oil in this thing S-U-C-K-S!!!! The drain tube exits on the side of the blower right over the wheel. It also ends flush with the edge of the blower so you can't get anything under it. What a mess. I finally had to pull the wheel and then cut a milk jug in half and force it under the tube. I don't know what to do other than maybe use some hose to try and drain it? Very poor design. The tube should exit in the back between the handle bars as it did on my other one. Just DUMB to put it where they did.

Step 3 = Changed out the POC Chinajunk "Torch" spark plug that came with it. Didn't even hesitate or think twice. My Lifan generator came with a Torch spark plug and right out of the box it was hard to start. Swapped the plug to a good brand and it fires up instantly now. I used an NGK for now in the blower but will probably swap to an E3 at some point. I don't buy into a lot of these gimmick plugs but in small engines the E3's really do seem to make starting easier and give smoother running.

Step 4 = Finally figured out the fuel shut off and choke direction and then fired it up. Instant 1st pull start!

Actually ran pretty smooth and was much quieter than my old MTD. That old MTD sounded like a tank.

I need to let it sit and run for 15 minutes with the augers engaged for break in according to the OM. Too hot here though today( 80's )for that. I willw ait for a nice cool day late this fall to do it. Obviously before any snow falls that will require the blower.

So far so good. Oh, and just for S&G's I tried the electric start. It works ok but it actually started faster manually. I have no close by electric outlets outside to the storage for the blower so I will almost never use it. However, if I am having a bad time with my MS and it acts up on me manually starting I can run a cord out to it so I guess it is good to have.

 

[eljefino]

The best way to change oil is to tilt the things 30 to 45 degrees. Drive one wheel up on a car ramp! You can bend a foot of cardboard into a "V" chute as well and stuff that under the discharge to get it over to the drain pan. Even use a paper towel/TP cardboard roll!

The chokes on these chondas do a very good job of choking/enriching when on full. Better than the domestic engines with weak chokes or those primer bulbs.

 

[Mr_Joe]

You get brownie points for planning ahead too.

 

[boraticus]

It's not too hard to pull the wheel off to make oil changes easier. If you don't want to do that, tilt the machine opposite to the oil drain side, take off the cap on the drain pipe, slip a piece of hose over the drain pipe then level the machine to allow the oil to flow.

I usually pull the wheel, prop the machine up with a block and drain the oil.

 

[dwendt44]

On my snowblower, I put a 90° elbow on the drain tube, added a hose nipple and a foot of hose with a another nipple and a cap on it. This allows the draining to come out behind the wheel and into a pan.

Of course, mine was an American engine so the threads were SAE, not metric.

 

[car54]

congrats on choosing the quality unit over the chinese engine. I bought a snowblower a few years ago and the only choices were MTD from home depot with Tecumseh engine, or a Honda.

so I settled on the Honda, and it's really worked great. to the main road, it's about half a mile. Takes a full 6-10 hrs to clear the entire thing, but it's held up great.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: boraticus
It's not too hard to pull the wheel off to make oil changes easier. If you don't want to do that, tilt the machine opposite to the oil drain side, take off the cap on the drain pipe, slip a piece of hose over the drain pipe then level the machine to allow the oil to flow.

I usually pull the wheel, prop the machine up with a block and drain the oil.


Did I say it was hard to pull the wheel? I did pull the wheel and even tipped it and it is still a PITB to get the oil into the pan. It is a poor location for the oil drain.

 

[doitmyself]

Yea, the things engineers overlook sometimes make you scratch your head.

If you don't want to invest any more $$, I have often followed Eljefino's technique (prop it up a bit on the opposite side-2x4 under wheel) and then use an aluminum foil, v shaped trough to direct the oil to the container. Cheap, fast, and easy.

Or, fabricate different hard or soft plumbing, such as this:
Drainzit:

 

[rg200amp]

Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
I just bit the bullet and bought a new snow blower yesterday. Last winter just took what was left out of my 1996 MTD 22" snow blower w/ Techumsa motor. I loved that snow blower. Well, more specifically the motor. Best small engine I have ever had.

I really have used it hard over the years and I frankly have been impressed with how well it held up. It ran for 2-4 hours every storm pretty much. Best $479 I ever spent on something like this. The body and drive line have finally just worn out though or are getting there anyway. The motor still starts on the 1st pull and runs good although it is starting to burn some oil. I could probably limp it through a mild winter but another one like last year and it would not make it for what I need it to do.

I have to have a dependable blower as I can not shovel anymore due to illness(MS) so I have been looking for a new snow blower for a couple years now as the MTD got older and began to wear out. It kept hanging on though and I kept saying 1 more year, 1 more year. It was time though and I knew this year was it. Yesterday I was at HD and saw a couple sitting there and decided to pounce while I could after trying to replace it last winter and no snow blowers were to be found anywhere.

I ended up with a 24" 2-stage Ariens Sno-Tek. It has electric start which I don't want/won't use but it seems that is all you can find these days. You almost never see manual start ones here anymore. I had/have concerns about the LCT engine( never heard of them before this - more China junk I guess but short of spending a small mint that is what you get )but I could not justify the expense of buying a different snow blower with a better/known engine for hundreds and hundreds more. It was actually $300 more to buy the top of the line Ariens version of the 24" 2-stage snow blower I got. The same exact thing as the one I got just with a light and a Brigg's & Stratton engine. Same case, driveline, etc... but $300 more.

Hoping I didn't make a mistake? I know this is the economy line from Ariens but Ariens seems to be a reputable company when it comes to snow blowers. As I said above the motor is really the only difference between them. Maybe the paint/powder cooat isn't as good as well. Otherwise it is the same base snow blower as the top of the line Ariens. For $100 more I got an extra 3 years of warranty so I now have 5. If it makes it 5 years without problems I guess I will be happy. It would be nice to see 15+ years out of this one the way I did the MTD but I doubt it. I wonder if it will go the 5 years without issues or if I will need that extra warranty?

What say you, did I make a mistake?

Here are the 2 I considered. As you can see they are basically the same thing except for the engine and one has a light and the other doesn't. The regular Ariens is 1" taller but I assumne that is to accomodate the different cross piece with the light( different handle bars? ). It weighs 4lbs more but that is probably the engine difference and light/different handle bars. Other than that they are the same. The cheaper Sno-Tek with the LCT engine actually has more power and is larger so in theory it should be able to handle a little more snow.

Gues this winter will tell. Probably won't get any snow now.

I just got the SAME blower. Very solid construction. The LCT engines are reviewed BETTER that the B&S on the Ariens branded blower!

 

[NHHEMI]

Ha!

Have you seen where the oil drain tube is located yet?

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Yea, the things engineers overlook sometimes make you scratch your head.

If you don't want to invest any more $$, I have often followed Eljefino's technique (prop it up a bit on the opposite side-2x4 under wheel) and then use an aluminum foil, v shaped trough to direct the oil to the container. Cheap, fast, and easy.

Or, fabricate different hard or soft plumbing, such as this:
Drainzit:

That looks like a pretty good solution. I might do that. Thanks.

 

[MolaKule]

I have a 24" Poulan with the LCT engine and it runs great. I bought it last year after my old MTD with the Tecumseh was givin me carb fits.

And yes, the oil drain sucks. I have attempted to locate an extended drain tube but never found anything from the plumbing houses that works. Weird diameter and thread type. Tilting and flat funneling is the only drain method I have found so far.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: MolaKule
I have a 24" Poulan with the LCT engine and it runs great. I bought it last year after my old MTD with the Tecumseh was givin me carb fits.

And yes, the oil drain sucks. I have attempted to locate an extended drain tube but never found anything from the plumbing houses that works. Weird diameter and thread type. Tilting and flat funneling is the only drain method I have found so far.


When I change the oil again after the 2 hour break in I am going to hit the local hardware store as they have every conceivable type of fitting known to man. I am going to come up with something to make changing the oil easier. I will try and remember to PM you and let you know what I came up with if I am successful.