New PPPP 5W30 HTHS ?

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The new PPPP 5W30 Dexos 1 Gen 2 has a viscosity @ 100° C of 9.8 and is A1/B1 / A5/B5 rated .
Conversely . M1 Dexos 1 Gen 2 has a viscosity @ 100° C of 11.0 , an HTHS of 3.1 and is also rated A1/B1 and A5/B5.

*Pennozil does not list the HTHS of the new 5W30 D1 Gen2 synthetic oil - does any one know ?
Lastly , would you use a synthetic 5W30 with an HTHS of less than 3.0 - yes or no ? Please explain ... Thanks in advance .
 
Min HTHS of 30 grade is 2.9 per SAE J300, so yes, I would use a synthetic 5w30 with and HTHS less than 3.0.
 
Thanks for the reply - I mainly ask because it appears Hyundai has a potential design flaw with their Theta II 2.4L GDI non turbo engines (#2 and sometimes #3 , #4 connecting rod bearings fail ) otherwise known as the "Hyundai Tick Of Death" (common Hyundai forums topic) . Engines which are suspected get a pass or fail result : The passed engines get a automatic new fill of 5W30 conventional while the failed engines get a new replacement engine filled with 5W30 synthetic .

Me thinks Hyundai is ditching the use of 5W20 (CAFE) and now automatically going up to 5W30 (allowed per owners manual) to achieve a higher oil film strength to try and stay ahead of the bearing / connecting rod wear / failure issues . *I tried M1 5W30 once in my Hyundai and while quieter / smoother it felt a little sluggish as compared to the fill of PPPP 5W20 I had used previously . Therefore , the idea of a "thin" PPPP 5W30 that is a higher viscosity than 5W20 (also this 5W30 meeting A5/B5 ) yet still provides closer to the engine responsiveness of a 5W20 I prefer could be just the ideal 5W30 to use in this Hyundai engine ...
 
Unless I am confused with what you are talking about, I don't believe it's a design flaw in those engines but a manufacturing goof up. No oil will save or correct it if you have an affected engine.

I see your 2.4 is a 2017, maybe you are not talking about the recall issue? My co-worker got a new engine in his 2012 Optima over the recall.

As for your other question, I like 30 grades and therefore am not all that impressed with some of the Pennzoil offerings that tend to flirt with the low end of grade I would rather have something a bit thicker for Hyundai/KIA. You'll notice not only does your manual list 30's as acceptable, it quickly suggests them for high heat or towing. That tells me the Hyundai/KIA 20 grade spec is much more a "me too" CAFE thing than any design preference. Our Sedona is "spec'd" for 5w20, I ran it a couple times but the majority of it's life it's had 30 grades and one good run on an 0w40, no perceptible driving difference.
 
I thought the Kia engine issues were a few years back and had been taken care of? This is the block cleaning process after machining we are talking about, right?

I would have no problem owning a Kia. They are great cars.
 
Thanks KC Jeep ... Besides the "thin" PP 5W30 there are other candidates like M1 5W30 EP which has a V @100° C of 10.6 and a HTHS of 3.0 and then of course the standard M1 5W30 with a V@100° C 11 and HTHS of 3.1 ... *Besides the recall of 2012 manufacturing crud left in the Hyundai / Kia there is a new investigation of Hyundai Korea whereby a internal whistle blower engineer has proof of a Hyundai cover up on bearings , connecting rods and piston coatings (all known to be an issue with 2012 + later year Theta II GDI engines) ... The 2017 Theta II 2.4L non - turbos do not have enough mileage on them to see if modest attempts to improve the issues without a total re-design are helping ? ... So in the end , I'm trying to stay ahead of the Hyundai potential engine issues by using a good 5W30 synthetic , shorter
Originally Posted by KCJeep
Unless I am confused with what you are talking about, I don't believe it's a design flaw in those engines but a manufacturing goof up. No oil will save or correct it if you have an affected engine. I prefer Pennzoil or M1 and maybe Valvoline or Castrol (never on sale though) ... Thoughts ?

I see your 2.4 is a 2017, maybe you are not talking about the recall issue? My co-worker got a new engine in his 2012 Optima over the recall.

As for your other question, I like 30 grades and therefore am not all that impressed with some of the Pennzoil offerings that tend to flirt with the low end of grade I would rather have something a bit thicker for Hyundai/KIA. You'll notice not only does your manual list 30's as acceptable, it quickly suggests them for high heat or towing. That tells me the Hyundai/KIA 20 grade spec is much more a "me too" CAFE thing than any design preference. Our Sedona is "spec'd" for 5w20, I ran it a couple times but the majority of it's life it's had 30 grades and one good run on an 0w40, no perceptible driving difference.
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*Pennozil does not list the HTHS of the new 5W30 D1 Gen2 synthetic oil - does any one know ?

We may not know, but I'd wager that it's 3.0 or 3.1 +/- 0.1, like almost every other ILSAC 5w-30 on the shelf.
wink.gif
 
"I tried M1 5W30 once in my Hyundai and while quieter / smoother it felt a little sluggish as compared to the fill of PPPP 5W20 I had used previously ."

Serious question as I was thinking of moving my Soul and my G.F.'s 17 Optima to 5-30 from 5-20. Always question remarks like this. Can you really tell whether an engine is quieter and smoother by going from 5-20 to 5-30? How about sluggishness from thicker oils? Without instrumentation can you "feel the difference"? Is this different than feeling the difference when you change oil, or feeling the difference when you use premium fuel in a car which calls for regular? I may have felt better when I tweaked oil brands or weights, used MMO or put three pounds more air in the tires, but is it just a placebo? Do you really trust your "feel"? I'm skeptical, but giving real thought to moving to 5-30 because of some of the points repeated in many HyunKia threads,

I'm questioning this in honor of Dr. John Brinkley who made radio station XCRF-- later home to Wolfman Jack, a household word across the south and midwest. People thought those goat glands raised their libido as well. Are some of these oil swaps just more goat glandery?

Apr 18, 2008 - John Brinkley, the goat-gland quack. As medical procedures go, having severed goat's testicles implanted in one's body to boost a failing potency sounds like the rankest quackery - and it is. But for well over 20 years, as late as 1939, the goat-gland transplant was regarded as a breakthrough of the first importance.

https://motherboard.vice.com/en_us/...testicle-grafts-to-boost-their-sex-drive
 
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I run QSUD 5W-30 in my Hyundai for the heavier viscosity @ 100 C. I change it at the severe service interval of 3750 miles.
 
My Soul has the Hyundai 2L 'Beta' engine in it; and they are know when they get some miles on them to have a noisy valvetrain at startup because of oil drain down out of the lifters.

I take Hyundai/Kia's 'hints' very seriously that there engines want heavier oil (10W-30) in warmer weather and run 10W-30 in the summer, and 20-weight in the winter.

Ironically, my car was the quietest on the 5W-20 Castrol Edge I ran last winter, and is pretty noisy on 10W-30 M1 EP right now!

Thinking of trying 0W-40 for this winter coming up.
 
Get some Valvoline Advanced full synthetic in 5W-30. It's dexos1 Gen2 with HTHS of 3.2. It's towards the "thin" side of 5W-30 too.
 
Interesting, I had not heard about the latest development. Building cars has become so complicated, I'm amazed anyone can actually get one right anymore.

Read about just any make/model and it seems there is someplace where they missed it. I don't know if it's actually the cars or just that we have so much more information available now.
 
*What ? (lol) ... I can tell the difference between a 5W20 PPPP vs. M1 5W30 - especially in the little Elantra where the 5W20 PPPP allows "freer" engine response and performance.
Originally Posted by csandste
"I tried M1 5W30 once in my Hyundai and while quieter / smoother it felt a little sluggish as compared to the fill of PPPP 5W20 I had used previously ."

Serious question as I was thinking of moving my Soul and my G.F.'s 17 Optima to 5-30 from 5-20. Always question remarks like this. Can you really tell whether an engine is quieter and smoother by going from 5-20 to 5-30? How about sluggishness from thicker oils? Without instrumentation can you "feel the difference"? Is this different than feeling the difference when you change oil, or feeling the difference when you use premium fuel in a car which calls for regular? I may have felt better when I tweaked oil brands or weights, used MMO or put three pounds more air in the tires, but is it just a placebo? Do you really trust your "feel"? I'm skeptical, but giving real thought to moving to 5-30 because of some of the points repeated in many HyunKia threads,

I'm questioning this in honor of Dr. John Brinkley who made radio station XCRF-- later home to Wolfman Jack, a household word across the south and midwest. People thought those goat glands raised their libido as well. Are some of these oil swaps just more goat glandery?

Apr 18, 2008 - John Brinkley, the goat-gland quack. As medical procedures go, having severed goat's testicles implanted in one's body to boost a failing potency sounds like the rankest quackery - and it is. But for well over 20 years, as late as 1939, the goat-gland transplant was regarded as a breakthrough of the first importance.

https://motherboard.vice.com/en_us/...testicle-grafts-to-boost-their-sex-drive
 
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