New Optima 2.4L GDI, Oil Choice, carbon buildup

[jstutz]

I just bought a 2013 optima that has the 2.4L GDI engine. From what i understand there are some serious considerations when it comes to choosing a motor oil. Mainly: Sulfated Ash, NOACK volatility, and short OCI's due to fuel dilution.

I was convinced that quick OCIs of 5K with PYB was the answer but all conventional oils have a NOACK of >14 with 10w30s usually the best of the grades.

PP or QSUD has better NOACK but seems a little crazy to run PP 5K miles

PU has by far the best NOACK of any OTC oil that i can find but for 27 dollars i just cant see running it for 5K miles.

Im considering M1 0w40 but NOACK is higher than PU and ASH is a little higher.

I believe this is only the 3rd year for this engine design. I cannot find a lot of information on this engine as far as carbon build up issues so im not sure if they exist or not. I have read that GM has one the best DI designs but not much out there on the Kia Theta 2 engine.

If anyone has any direct experience with this engine, i would really appreciate your opinions. I believe it comes with 5w20 dino from factory which would be about worst case for NOACK. Hopefully this is a good engine and will not have issues with injectors or carbon buildup. I have read some issues with injectors and them needing replaced. Also running top tier gas is also recommended which i guess would be Shell or something.

Im leaning toward PP / QSUD 10w30 which gives by medium price, good NOACK and a great oil for 5K changes.

 

[Eddie]

I'm running PP in my 2007 DI turbo engine. No issues at 70,000 miles

 

[skyactiv]

Me, I would use PU 5W20. I thought someone posted an unheard of NOACK rating of it on here.

 

[jstutz]

Yea, PU has the absolute best NOACK of all the easily available oils. Its 5%(5w20) vs 9.2% for PP 10w30 and 12.8% for the PP 5w20. Its just so expensive for 5K changes.

 

[jstutz]

I should add that we plan to drive about 25K miles a year for the first year then it will drop to 17 to 20K / year. It will be mixed driving with a bit of idling through town and the kids school.

 

[bourne]

VWB 5w30/5w20 every 3~5k miles ( w/e the warranty requirements are ) .

The NA GDI engines from Hyundai/Kia arent terribly more rough on oil or anything. VWB has historically shown excellent resistance to fuel dilution as well. With the amount of miles you are driving per year, your fluids should be getting upto temps anyways.

 

[SrDriver]

QSUD would be my choice.

5000 miles sounds about right because of fuel in the oil in DI engines.

 

[71Chevyguy]

I have a 2012 Optima 2.4 GDI and can share my experience with you. When it was brand new the fuel dilution was unbelievable. You could smell it from a distance when you would pull the dipstick out. When I drained the FF out I thought I was going to get knocked out under the car (no exaggeration). The oil was also pitch black like a diesel before 2,000 miles. I used regular dino oil for the first changes, formula Shell in my case but as has been mentioned here the Valvoline oils are known to take fuel dilution well. I also have been using 5w30 instead of the suggested 5w20 since with fuel dilution you are watering it down quite a bit and the viscosity will drop. That is what the dealer told me they would use anyway if I had them change it. The said they use CARQUEST brand 5w30 for their oil changes. With each oil change the fuel smell was better and the oil not as black. The car now has 19k on it and the gas smell in the oil is no longer an issue and the current fill of G-oil 5w30 is still a light golden brown with 4k on it. So from my experience I would suggest maybe Valvoline dino at 3750 oil changes to keep with warranty requirements, flush out break in metals and keep fresher oil in there to deal with the primary fuel dilution till she breaks in well. I did 4 changes at 3750 each and at 15k went with the synthetic and will probably do 3 oil changes at 5k each since the G-oil is usually only good for that long anyway. Then I have a stash of PU which I will start using at 7,500 intervals which is the maximum allowed by warranty. You also should think twice about using M1 0w40 while under warranty because that weight is not allowed by the owners manual. The non turbo engine only allows 5w20,5w30 or 10w30. I have thought about mixing 0w40 with some 0w20 the get the viscosity down some but still have all of the additives the 0w40 offers. I am also considering trying 5w20 again since the fuel dilution is no longer an issue. Last time I had 5w20 in it the engine sounded like a sewing machine after 1,000 miles. So that got swapped out pretty quickly. Another bit of advice with the oil change itself is make yourself a little funnel out of tinfoil for removing the oil filter, because even though there is a hole in the belly pan for the oil filter it is in the wrong place and the oil will flow out further back and fill the belly pan instead of draining out. Unless you are lucky enough that they relocated or made a bigger hole in 2013. And don't expect good fuel economy either. Best I have gotten on a straight highway trip at this point is 25 MPG. Mine is currently not running but I hope the dealer will take care of that. Looks like it needs a new battery because the old one seems to have shorted out. Hope this isn't starting a downhill trend. Been a pretty nice car so far. Good luck with yours and sorry for the long post, hope it gives you some of the information you are looking for.

 

[Falken]

If you can easily find PU 5W20 for $28 a jug I would use that and not give it a second thought.

If you can't get cheap PU, I would use QSUD in that case.

 

[Rolla07]

PU for 7500 after car is broken in like 71chevyguy says. Dino at 3750 a few times than PU. Sounded like good advice to me.

 

[Danno]

Originally Posted By: 71Chevyguy
And don't expect good fuel economy either. Best I have gotten on a straight highway trip at this point is 25 MPG.
Don't necessarily want to take this thread OT but I have seen as good as 40 mpg US on a 70 mile run at an average speed of 62 MPH with my 2013 Sonata 2.4L. I am very happy with my fuel ecnomy. 35MPG is easy to do on every highway run at 65 MPH.

 

[Jim_Bob]

I had a 2012 Sonata with the same motor and sent a UOA to blackstone and got some interesting results. I dont know where the results went but there was an above average amount of fuel in the oil. I drive 90% long highway trips and only 10% or maybe even less city driving. Driving on the highway should have burned off the fuel from what ive read on here but it doesnt in these motors for some reason. I would change no longer than 5k and I dont think it matters what oil you use at those short intervals. I used 5w-30 weight down here in warm Florida. And I would stick with the Kia/Hyundai brand filter.

And on a side note, when you go to change your trans fluid, be sure to buy Kia brand and do it by 50k at the longest, it is not a lifetime fluid.

 

[ChrisD46]

I would run either PP or QSUD 5W20 for 5K OCI's with a OEM filter (very robust & good price) for a aftermarket filter I have had good luck in my Hyundai using Pure One ...Unfortunately with a GDI engine you pretty much have to use synthetic oil at 5K OCI ...Time will tell about these GDI engines (i.e. ability to keep carbon build up at bay) .

 

[jstutz]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate all the feedback. So far with my wife and i running around in the car, the MPG is 26.6 MPG but it only has 130 miles on it.

My experience so far is pretty good. I wish the engine idled a little more smoothly. It does not idle silky smooth like some new cars i have heard but not terrible and is not the quietest engine i ever heard.

 

[Texican]

Originally Posted By: jstutz
Thanks guys. I really appreciate all the feedback. So far with my wife and i running around in the car, the MPG is 26.6 MPG but it only has 130 miles on it.

My experience so far is pretty good. I wish the engine idled a little more smoothly. It does not idle silky smooth like some new cars i have heard but not terrible and is not the quietest engine i ever heard.

I've notice the noise on my 2014 Kia forte with a 2.0 GDI also. It's not bad, but like you said I've heard quieter cars before.

 

[Errtt]

Ahh grrr-8
2010 Hyundai Tucson 2.4L (47k-odo)

Was using conventional 5w-20, then went with PP 5w-30 for summer temps (5k on oil/filter). Now (last week), decided to try a fill of Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic w/Titanium 5w-20 SN, and have another fill stash of the Kendall (+a few fills of PP 5w-30).

Sounds like I should of just went with PU (harder to find but local Pepboys finally got a bunch in), 5w-20 SN for the NOACK, now that the weather is cooler.

I did notice the Kendall is quieter early morning starts, but its a 5w-20 vs the 5w-30 PP I was using. The Kendall NOACK was 10.7 in 5w-30 flavor from last time I checked PQI. They didn't show a 5w-20.

Maybe I'll do a shorter OCI, dump the Kendall & try the PU.

No adding between OCIs and can't tell (sniff-sniff) any excess fuel in the oil.

As always, OEM filter... mater of fact, did a cut on the recent removal (5k use):
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...nt=2&page=1

I'll have to re-think all this. Sounds like PU should be one of the top contenders for the GDI for NOACK.

 

[KrisZ]

I believe the EGR design will have far greater effect on intake buildup than NOACK. And from what I read so far, the intake valve temperatures have a lot to do with build up, or lack of it, as well.
In essence, I would not worry too much about NOACK, but instead don't baby the car and wring it up every once in a while and enjoy the ride.