First Vehicle: 360 V8, 178k, Mobil-1 10w30 every 3-4k since 65k
This motor has used close to a QT every 3k since I have had it. It doesn't have any significant leaks. At 150k, I began rotating Mobil-1 HM formula every-other oil change instead of only using regular Mobil-1. But on some internet research, I have read many stories of other people saying that their vehicles also burned off Mobil-1, but when any other oil was tried, it stopped. This vehicle was recently retired as a daily driver. I am looking for a good alternative oil to try but there are no other full synthetic HM oils I can find locally.
I want a HM 10w30 oil. I am thinking of switching to Castrol GTX HM formula since I can't find a good alternative to the Mobil-1 in HM oil. My only concern is that dino oils seem to absorb moisture more than synthetics. Since this vehicle will be driven once a month at most, would moisture aborbtion be a concern?
Also, I have heard that Valvoline Max-life & Castrol GTX HM both actually have a squirt of true synthetic oil in their additive pkg? Is that really the case?
If the vehicle uses oil with ANY other oil, then I have no problem sticking with Mobil-1 HM formula, but I at least want to try something else to see if it is only Mobil-1 that burns off since it has done it since I got it in 2001. I know a QT is not that much, but since others have had this issue with Mobil-1, I want to experiment. I just hate going from a full-syn oil back to dino oil unless that is my only choice to get exactly what I want.
The other idea I had instead of Castrol dino HM, was trying some Mobil-1 10w40 HM formula. But since it has used a QT between changes since it was newer, I doubt it has any engine problems that would truly warrant a thicker oil.
Second vehicle: 4.0L I-6, 72k, currently using Trop-artic 10w30 syn-blend, uses no oil between 4k change intervals.
This is a flat-tappet motor so I want to switch it to a on-energy conserving(more zinc, phosphorus, etc), but can't use Rotella because I want 10w30 and it is a CA emissions vehicle and I do not want to kill the 3 cats it has, but still want non-energy conserving to protect the cam lobes. It does have some oil seepage, but I still do not want to switch to a HM oil yet since it is not HM and it uses zero oil.
The only non-energy conserving, non-HM 10w30 I can find is Mystik. As a bonus, it is also a syn-blend which is what I am already using so a switch to Mystik 10w30 seems like the exact oil I am seeking for this motor?
Any input, advice, or facts would be nice to help me; especially with the first vehicle because if I knew for sure that Castrol GTX HM, or even Max-life were in fact a syn-blend then I'd feel better about switching it off Mobil-1. The other concern again is since it is not a daily driver, and full synthetic is better against moisture, then I might as well keep Mobil-1. I prefer non-energy conserving oil, but on the 360 V8, it is a roller motor and I am less concerned about wear.
Thanks fellas!
This motor has used close to a QT every 3k since I have had it. It doesn't have any significant leaks. At 150k, I began rotating Mobil-1 HM formula every-other oil change instead of only using regular Mobil-1. But on some internet research, I have read many stories of other people saying that their vehicles also burned off Mobil-1, but when any other oil was tried, it stopped. This vehicle was recently retired as a daily driver. I am looking for a good alternative oil to try but there are no other full synthetic HM oils I can find locally.
I want a HM 10w30 oil. I am thinking of switching to Castrol GTX HM formula since I can't find a good alternative to the Mobil-1 in HM oil. My only concern is that dino oils seem to absorb moisture more than synthetics. Since this vehicle will be driven once a month at most, would moisture aborbtion be a concern?
Also, I have heard that Valvoline Max-life & Castrol GTX HM both actually have a squirt of true synthetic oil in their additive pkg? Is that really the case?
If the vehicle uses oil with ANY other oil, then I have no problem sticking with Mobil-1 HM formula, but I at least want to try something else to see if it is only Mobil-1 that burns off since it has done it since I got it in 2001. I know a QT is not that much, but since others have had this issue with Mobil-1, I want to experiment. I just hate going from a full-syn oil back to dino oil unless that is my only choice to get exactly what I want.
The other idea I had instead of Castrol dino HM, was trying some Mobil-1 10w40 HM formula. But since it has used a QT between changes since it was newer, I doubt it has any engine problems that would truly warrant a thicker oil.
Second vehicle: 4.0L I-6, 72k, currently using Trop-artic 10w30 syn-blend, uses no oil between 4k change intervals.
This is a flat-tappet motor so I want to switch it to a on-energy conserving(more zinc, phosphorus, etc), but can't use Rotella because I want 10w30 and it is a CA emissions vehicle and I do not want to kill the 3 cats it has, but still want non-energy conserving to protect the cam lobes. It does have some oil seepage, but I still do not want to switch to a HM oil yet since it is not HM and it uses zero oil.
The only non-energy conserving, non-HM 10w30 I can find is Mystik. As a bonus, it is also a syn-blend which is what I am already using so a switch to Mystik 10w30 seems like the exact oil I am seeking for this motor?
Any input, advice, or facts would be nice to help me; especially with the first vehicle because if I knew for sure that Castrol GTX HM, or even Max-life were in fact a syn-blend then I'd feel better about switching it off Mobil-1. The other concern again is since it is not a daily driver, and full synthetic is better against moisture, then I might as well keep Mobil-1. I prefer non-energy conserving oil, but on the 360 V8, it is a roller motor and I am less concerned about wear.
Thanks fellas!