new Lightning says...

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My engine oil valve cover cap says 5 - 20 however, I was planning on using Mobil 1 5-30 will that be a problem...?

thanks
 
No, it shouldn't be a problem as Mobil 5w30 is one of the thinnest 5w30's out there, and we all know the reasoning behind the 5w20 - CAFE issues. In addition, prior to ford recommending 5w20, these engines used 5w30 and there have been no documented internal changes to warrant a change in oil viscosity.

That being said, it would be interesting to see how the 5w20 held up in one of these monsters! Nice truck! (My two F150's are envious!)

Oh - one other thing - your warranty specifically calls for the use of 5w20. It shouldn't be an issue, but thought I would make you aware of it.

[ January 23, 2003, 02:46 PM: Message edited by: MNgopher ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by MNgopher:
Oh - one other thing - your warranty specifically calls for the use of 5w20. It shouldn't be an issue, but thought I would make you aware of it.

My question is how will the dealership ever know if you put 5w-30 in instead? I seriously doubt they would test it, even then the results can be subject to interpretation.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Soma07:

quote:

Originally posted by MNgopher:
Oh - one other thing - your warranty specifically calls for the use of 5w20. It shouldn't be an issue, but thought I would make you aware of it.

My question is how will the dealership ever know if you put 5w-30 in instead? I seriously doubt they would test it, even then the results can be subject to interpretation.


Assuming a warranty claim ever got this point, a quick oil analysis on their part would show if the right grade had been in use. If they wanted to be strict about it and found viscosities that indicated you were using 5W-30 rather than 5W-20 during the warranty period, you're toast.
 
Given that the Mobil 1 is so close to the 20/30 boundary anyway, would they be able to categorically state that a couple of Cst destroyed the engine ?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Shannow:
Given that the Mobil 1 is so close to the 20/30 boundary anyway, would they be able to categorically state that a couple of Cst destroyed the engine ?

Of course it wouldn't and of course they couldn't.
 
I guess it depends on how conservative you are. If you have any type of failure during the warranty period, my experience has been that you don't want to be on the wrong side of the fence when interpreting what's stated in the warranty. Your call.
 
I suggest trying out a few intervals with 5w20, and getting oil analysis done to see how the wear numbers are first. If they aren't too spectacular, then go to the 5w30.

I'd try something like the Royal Purple 5w20 if I were you.

It is true, Mobil 1 5w30 is not that far off from a 5w20 anyways. Most 5w20s out there are in the 8.5 to 9.0cst at 100c range, while M1 5w30 is 9.7cst at 100c.

Who knows, you may just find that even with a thinner 5w30 your wear numbers aren't as good as they could be, and then you'd be better off with something towards the higher end of the 30wt, or something around 11.5 to 12cst (upper level of 30wt is 12.49, at 12.5-16.29 it's then classified as 40wt) Royal Purple, Amsoil and Redline's 5w30s are all in the middle to high end of the 30wt class.

This is why oil analysis is so important for those that want the best engine wear possible, it can then help you pinpoint which viscosity works best. You can also see that not all 5w30s are created equal, and some are thicker than others at operating temperature.
 
"Assuming a warranty claim ever got this point, a quick oil analysis on their part would show if the right grade had been in use. If they wanted to be strict about it and found viscosities that indicated you were using 5W-30 rather than 5W-20 during the warranty period, you're toast."

Consider this!

Suppose you did use, say Mobil 1 SS 5W30:
How would the dealer OR the analyzer know that the oil HAD NOT SHEARED back to a 5W20 grade?
 
No one will be able to figure it out unless you tell 'em. As was mentioned the oil could shear down. Or it could thicken up. I think an oil analysis is good from the standpoint-even if you used out of spec (recommendation) oil you can show (hopefully) a god analysis. The other alternative is to lie. I'm prepared to do both
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Me too! I just put Ams 5w-30 in a Focus which calls for a 5w-20. This car I wouldnt feel to bad putting a 20wt. oil in but not for an F-150. I say this based on my gut feeling nothing else. We will see in time how these 20wts. hold up. My friend uses Amsoils 5w-20wt in a Mustang and the specs are nice. Very close to Mobil's 5w-30 only a little lighter. I'm sure the M1 0w-20 will be very good as well. Ford makes excellent trucks, good luck with it.
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[ January 23, 2003, 05:53 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
mrblue, congrats on your new Lightning. You need not worry about using 5W-30 from a mechanical standpoint. I own a 2000 red Lightning, the fastest color
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, and it calls for 5W-30. Ford made no internal engine changes from the 1999 and 2000 models that call for 5W-30 to the 2001, 2002, or 2003 models that call for 5W-20. They just started calling for 5W-20 in 2001 trying to improve MPG across the truck line. There is no difference in our engines internally, except that real world evidence seems to suggest that the 2001 and up models have weaker rods than the 99 and 2000 models.

On the Lightning board on f150 you'd see all the posts about 2001 and up models ventilating their blocks once modded to reach about 500HP and how few 99 and 2000 models have done the same thing. Is it just a coincedence that the 2001 and up models started using 5W-20 oil and blow up?

[ January 24, 2003, 08:41 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
 
I am a member on the F150 board - my understanding is the 03 models have corrected any rod problem and also addressed the head/plug thread issue with more threads to the spark plug holes +9 threads vs 4 threads on the older versions.

Anyway - back to the issue at hand Mobil 1 does not make a 5/20 just a 0/20 I think so next question should I run the 0/20 instead...?

thanks,
 
I'd go with what Patman said and try the 0w-20 M1. If this doesn't work try there 10w-30 or Amsoil's 30wts. which are at the higher end. I would run a 30wt. to be safe. Just my opinion....I'm sure the 20wts will hold up but there is nothing to say they will at this point. I'd feel more safe running a heavier oil in a truck engine or any V8 for that matter. 30Wt.s have higher HT/HS which I think would be good for this. S2000 would be great in this but it's expensive.

[ January 23, 2003, 09:28 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
mrblue, I don't think the 5W-20 caused the rod problem in 01 and 02, but I was glad to hear they added more threads to the heads and possibly switched rods back to a better source. The jury is still out on 03 rods. Let us hope for the best.

If I were you, I would run the Mobil 1 5W-30 and not worry about it at all. Heck, you could run 10W-30 if you wanted. I don't believe you are going to have a problem with the warranty unless you add a chip or change one of the blower pullies for more boost. I have never heard of anyone having an engine warranty denied for using 5W-30, but...I have heard of plenty denied for evidence of pulley changes and/or computer chips an/or nitrous. Ford is really cracking down on mods of any kind, from mild to wild. Even after all the people they have busted and denied warranty on engines, I bet they haven't saved enough to balance out the fact that they had to replace the intercooler on EVERY 99 and 2000 Lightning because they used a jumk part the first time around. The bean counters can ruin a company reputation and alienate customers at the same time. What a concept!
 
quote:

Originally posted by 68redlines73:
Originally posted by Soma07:
Assuming a warranty claim ever got this point, a quick oil analysis on their part would show if the right grade had been in use. If they wanted to be strict about it and found viscosities that indicated you were using 5W-30 rather than 5W-20 during the warranty period, you're toast.
Umm,, how many analysis do we see on here that are 1 grade off, either up or down. I think they would have a hard time proving that you weren't using the proper grade, unless the oil was brand new fresh.

If you are using a xw30, a quick reference to some analysis that show 5w20 that thickened a bit to a 30 would be all that is needed.

Also note that when looking at the cSt. the lower the viscosity the smaller the range for that viscosity.

IE a 20wt at 100 is only like 5.6-9.29 cSt. So if you were using an xw30 that was 10.6cSt, you would be fine since that is only a 15% increase which is what most conventional oils are at as far as the NOACK volitility.

Does this make sense??
 
Hey guys I have a question regarding this issue.. Everyone is saying that my car "calls for xxx" oil, but are you guys going by just what's on the oil cap? My 2000 Honda manual recommends 5w30 and the cap says so BUT there is a temperature chart with other viscosities listed in the manual, unless this has changed in the new cars and the manual recommends only ONE viscosity for ALL temperature ranges?
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So my point would be that if there are other viscosities listed in the manual then Ford or anyone else should not be able to refuse warranty work because one used 5w30 instead of 5w20..
 
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