New lifter tick in my GM 5.3L... could it be my oil?

[350Rocket]

Removing the studs is NOT cheap, but it is the right way to do things. The clamps are working for now, and they're cheap, so I don't mind giving them a try.

It's comparatively cheap when you're used to seeing repair prices on modern trucks and cars every day.

 

[ka9mnx]

Do it NOW before they break. Cheaper and easier.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Spitting not ticking.

Remind me of the old days when the Lady of the house would come in complaining about " ticking" on their Dodge Monaco.
It was just that rattling warm up flap valve in the manifold for the heat riser. Chrysler special.

 

[PimTac]

Spitting not ticking.

Remind me of the old days when the Lady of the house would come in complaining about " ticking" on their Dodge Monaco.
It was just that rattling warm up flap valve in the manifold for the heat riser. Chrysler special.

I remember those.

I’ll bet the OP has some cracked studs aside from the ones that broke and were replaced.

 

[350Rocket]

Spitting not ticking.

Remind me of the old days when the Lady of the house would come in complaining about " ticking" on their Dodge Monaco.
It was just that rattling warm up flap valve in the manifold for the heat riser. Chrysler special.

I had that same issue on my 86 Caprice. Deleting it and adding dual exhaust fixed it.

 

[350Rocket]

It's usually the back ones that break from what I've seen. I have 2 5.3s and my 4.8 in my current work truck, all missing the one back stud on both sides and not leaking yet. Once 2 break it will probably leak.

 

[cfmistry]

I have two broken on the driver's side, that was leaking, and one on the passenger's. Putting clamps on all of them.