New lifter tick in my GM 5.3L... could it be my oil?

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689
Removing the studs is NOT cheap, but it is the right way to do things. The clamps are working for now, and they're cheap, so I don't mind giving them a try.
It's comparatively cheap when you're used to seeing repair prices on modern trucks and cars every day.
 
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N.H, U.S.A.
Spitting not ticking.

Remind me of the old days when the Lady of the house would come in complaining about " ticking" on their Dodge Monaco.
It was just that rattling warm up flap valve in the manifold for the heat riser. Chrysler special.
 
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...
Spitting not ticking.

Remind me of the old days when the Lady of the house would come in complaining about " ticking" on their Dodge Monaco.
It was just that rattling warm up flap valve in the manifold for the heat riser. Chrysler special.


I remember those.

I’ll bet the OP has some cracked studs aside from the ones that broke and were replaced.
 
Messages
689
Spitting not ticking.

Remind me of the old days when the Lady of the house would come in complaining about " ticking" on their Dodge Monaco.
It was just that rattling warm up flap valve in the manifold for the heat riser. Chrysler special.
I had that same issue on my 86 Caprice. Deleting it and adding dual exhaust fixed it.
 
Messages
689
It's usually the back ones that break from what I've seen. I have 2 5.3s and my 4.8 in my current work truck, all missing the one back stud on both sides and not leaking yet. Once 2 break it will probably leak.
 
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