New Kubota Lawn Tractor. Oil Change?

[propuckstopper]

Hi all. I just purchased a brand new Kubota GR2010 lawn tractor powered by a 20 horsepower twin cylinder Kohler (pressure lube with a spin on filter). Although this tractor is brand new, it is a 2008 model, so my guess is that the factory fill oil has been sitting in the sump at the dealer for a year or more.

The Kubota manual states that the initial oil change should take place at the 50 hour mark. I am having trouble with this due to the fact that this oil is already a year old. On the other hand, this tractor only has a grand total of 3 hours on it.

I should state that cost is not deterring me from doing the initial oil change early. If I had my way, I would have done it already but I thought I would ask the experts here first.

So, I have purchased a brand-new NAPA Gold filter for this engine, and have available the following oils if I proceed with this early oil change:

1. 10W-40 Amsoil Motorcycle Oil (synthetic)
2. 10W-40 Mobil 1 4T Racing Motorcycle Oil (synthetic)
3. 10W-30 (30) Amsoil Small Engine Oil (synthetic)

My plan was to change the oil right away using the NAPA Gold filter and one of the above oils. Then, I was going to do it again at the factory-recommended 50 hour mark with another new filter.

So, my question is: Should I proceed with this early change? Is this engine too new to run synthetic? (Mobil 1 says no, but I am not convinced)

Again, this isn't a cost question. I just want to make sure that I break this engine in properly. If it costs an extra 30 bucks to do it in an optimal manner, then I am happy. I just don't want to introduce synthetic too early if you guys figure I shouldn't.

I thank you for your suggestions in advance!

 

[Steve S]

change the oil and filter. What is the recommended viscosity?

 

[fordboy]

yes change them both
by the way, since your in canada, use this

 

[bubbatime]

Sounds like you've already made up your mind. Go get a conventional HDEO in 15w40 such as Delvac and change it out. Then change to synthetic at 25 hours.

 

[ZZman]

Change out now. No problem there. Use either Amsoil oils.

I think Syn oil is a good choice for a hard working air cooled engine.

 

[sweezy722]

I have a 20 HP Kohler Command Pro nearing 550 hours and still runs like it did the day I bought it. You have a good engine. If you change the oil I would use the Kohler Command oil. My owners manual states very clearly to not use synthetic until after the 50 hour mark. I now use synthetic in mine but waited until 100 hours. It uses no oil in 50 hours. I may have gotten the same results by starting with synthetic but figured they had a reason for putting it in the owners manual. All I have ever used is 10-30.

 

[propuckstopper]

The recommended viscosity (at the outdoor temps I'll be running in) is either 10W-30 or 15W-40.

I was actually in Canadian Tire yesterday, eyeing up the Rotella 15W-40. I just thought that even thought this may be a "recommended" viscosity by Kubota/Kohler, it may be a little heavy for a new engine. Also, it is really not that warm outside here in Manitoba as of yet. In fact, we had some snow yesterday morning. So, as a result of all this, I figured maybe a 10W-30 would fit the bill better.

I see from the responses here that some say go ahead with the synthetic change now and some say do not. This is the problem I have been facing in my mind. I really wish there was a definitive answer on this. The Mobil 1 web site says it is OK to use synthetic right away, but they also sell synthetic oil.

Hopefully, we can get to the bottom of this.

 

[GMGuy]

We'll never get to the bottom of that question. =-)
I'd do a conventional 15w40 and filter for this change.

Alex.

 

[StevieC]

We have a John Deer 20HP tractor and we use the Amsoil 10w30 4 stroke formula in it. We change it out once a year (22 Hours) and the engine runs great!

Small price to pay to keep it running great IMO!

 

[propuckstopper]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I did decide to start by dumping the oil. It was actually more grey than I thought it would be and you could see "sparklies" in it. Now, I need to go out and get some oil, which I think is going to be Rotella HDEO.

My theory is this: My mind will now be at ease dumping this year old oil. And if I use Rotella for the next 50 hours, I will know I have a great quality oil in there and combined with the NAPA Gold filter we should have a winning combination.

At 50 hours, I'll do another change with filter and use one of my synthetic motorcycle oils (Amsoil or Mobil 1), or use the Amsoil 10W-30 Small Engine formula.

I am far too anal

 

[JTK]

I've got a Kohler Command 20 in my Cub 2544. They are nice smooth, powerful engines. Kohler specs 10w30, but like said, you can't beat a HDEO for long hot usage. Readily available and very cost effective Shell Rotella-T 5w40 would be my choice. Nice tractor BTW! Shaft drive everything, 800lbs+ weight, etc.. Kubota makes awesome equipment and makes their own very stout hydrostatic transaxles. More importantly IMO, is the trans serviceable on your GR2010? Is it a Kubota trans?

Joel

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: propuckstopper
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I did decide to start by dumping the oil. It was actually more grey than I thought it would be and you could see "sparklies" in it. Now, I need to go out and get some oil, which I think is going to be Rotella HDEO.

My theory is this: My mind will now be at ease dumping this year old oil. And if I use Rotella for the next 50 hours, I will know I have a great quality oil in there and combined with the NAPA Gold filter we should have a winning combination.

At 50 hours, I'll do another change with filter and use one of my synthetic motorcycle oils (Amsoil or Mobil 1), or use the Amsoil 10W-30 Small Engine formula.

I am far too anal




You won't be sorry with the Amsoil 4 Stroke Small engine formula. I have it in the lawn mower, tractors, snow blower, pressure washer, Generator etc... All stay clean a very long time and they seem to start much easier too.

 

[propuckstopper]

I have used and continue to use the Amsoil 4 stroke small engine formula in my push mower, pressure washer, and snowblower. It will almost certainly be what I will go to after 50 hours on this tractor.

I'd go now, as I mentioned before, but I am still a little concerned with introducing synthetic too early.

Having said that, however, I would not be afraid to use either of the 10w-40 Amsoil motorcycle formula or the Mobil 1 motorcycle formula at the 50 hour mark. I have had great results with these oils in high performance sportbike engines, and I am sure they would work great in the lawn tractor as well.

 

[Pete591]

1. 10W-40 Amsoil Motorcycle Oil (synthetic) ZDDP?

2. 10W-40 Mobil 1 4T Racing Motorcycle Oil (synthetic) I kow this oil has 1600 PPM of Zinc and Phos....like it's big brother M-1 V-Twin 20W-50. It's probably the best.

3. 10W-30 (30) Amsoil Small Engine Oil (synthetic) ZDDP is around 1100-1200ppm. Not bad but 4T rules I believe.

 

[Hitzy]

Would the Amsoil 0w40 ATV oil be OK for an air cooled lawn tractor?
I got a bunch of it for my Kodiak, and the tractor is due for a change.

 

[eoghan]

"Would the Amsoil 0w40 ATV oil be OK for an air cooled lawn tractor?"

YES!!! the 0W40 Amsoil is only what I use in my 2006 J D 135A 22hp Briggs. I use this year round as I plow snow in the winter and of course mow in the summer. The 0W40 starts well in cold winter temps and does not thin out in hot temps or under heavy mowing conditions. I also use an Amsoil Ea057 oil filter. I change the oil once each fall when I change my vehicles oil and I am good for another whole year! I have done this since it was new in 2006 and it still runs like new and the oil stays very very clean!! The oil that is in it now was changed last Oct used all winter and for 4 mowings so far this summer and still looks like it did when it was put in! I never have to add a drop from once change to the next. I check each time before I start it up but never have had to add one drop between changes!