new Jeep Patriot 2.4L...OCI & DIY recommendations

[kmrcstintn]

I am purchasing a 2015 Jeep Patriot 4x2 with 2.4L 4 banger & 6 speed auto trans (trading in my used '11 Liberty); Jeep gives owners 1 free oil change & I am carrying over another free oil change from the previous sales deal...my dealer uses Pennzoil products (PYB bulk 5w-20 meets Chrysler spec)) & Mopar contract Purolator filters;

I plan on moderate driving during the break-in and my usual driving varies; 10 mile commutes to work with some stop-n-go, errand runs a few times a month with multiple stops en route to work, 2 mile grocery runs after work (park motorcycle, hop in vehicle, shop, come home), occasional drives in the country that last 50-75 miles, occasional highway jaunts, off season it will be driven for everything, etc; my average annual mileage is 7000-9000 total

with that said...what OCI should I use on a new engine for the first 2 dealer provided oil changes? after that I plan on DIY oil changes (unless it's the dead of winter or [censored] weather)...what conventional oil, filters, and OCI should I stick with? what will I gain from synthetic (gp iii, gr iv, or gr v base stocks) using a 5000 mile oci? thanks

 

[Nick1994]

Lol it takes a true BITOGer to worry about oil before purchasing the vehicle.

 

[doitmyself]

Well, you've been around here going on 10 years, so you should have a pretty good handle on what answers to expect, if you have been reading threads here during that time.

The Patriot has on oil minder that will tell you when to change the oil. The factory service manual says it can go off in as little as 3,500 miles under extreme conditions and not to exceed 10,000 miles or 12 months at the the other end. The South American and European service schedule recommends not to exceed 7.5k miles/12 months per oil change.

There is no consensus here about the first oil change. Some say to go the whole distance (Oil life moniter) while others recommend anything from 500 miles to 2 or 3 thousand. I did my 2014 Patriot at 3,000 and the oil looked relatively clean, nothing like my old 4 cyl. Caravans that had lawn mower type sparklies in dark oil at 1,000 miles. Based on my single result, the Patriot 2.4L doesn't produce a lot of break in debris. I then followed the Oil Life Monitor, with the idea that I will not exceed 7,500 miles (unless a UOA tells me otherwise).

Above 6,000 miles, I prefer a synthetic and am using Pennzoil Platinum 5w20. My oil life minder goes off between 5.5K and 7K +/-, the shorter one during winter.

As always, the only real way to know about oil condition is to do a UOA. I might do this on my upcoming 7K change at 32,000 miles on the odometer.

I have not observed ANY noticeable drop on the dipstick at 7k OCI's. The engine, built in Dundee Michigan, is regarded as being extremely reliable, but unrefined regarding performance. No timing belt, no direct injection. Chrysler bought out the GEMA rights in 2009 and made a few minor improvements. Maintenance is VERY easy and possibly the easiest spark plug replacement on earth. The Tigershark version (Dart)has a bit more get up and go.

At the Patriot forum, you do not see the early suspension problems after the 2011 refresh. I think they got sun roof leak addressed. The 6 speed Powertech transmission also seems to be a great upgrade from the problematic JATCO CVT.

Have fun! Follow the owners manual regarding break in. Vary your speeds initially and I think they still recommend appropriate wide open throttle.

I hope you bargained for the great incentives being offered. In Michigan, I see 2wd Latitude models (1 above base)selling for $17,000 (plus tax and destination)....less than $19k out the door.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Lol it takes a true BITOGer to worry about oil before purchasing the vehicle.

I'd go with factory recommended when using the dealer's free changes.

 

[daves87rs]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Well, you've been around here going on 10 years, so you should have a pretty good handle on what answers to expect, if you have been reading threads here during that time.

The Patriot has on oil minder that will tell you when to change the oil. The factory service manual says it can go off in as little as 3,500 miles under extreme conditions and not to exceed 10,000 miles or 12 months at the the other end. The South American and European service schedule recommends not to exceed 7.5k miles/12 months per oil change.

There is no consensus here about the first oil change. Some say to go the whole distance (Oil life moniter) while others recommend anything from 500 miles to 2 or 3 thousand. I did my 2014 Patriot at 3,000 and the oil looked relatively clean, nothing like my old 4 cyl. Caravans that had lawn mower type sparklies in dark oil at 1,000 miles. Based on my single result, the Patriot 2.4L doesn't produce a lot of break in debris. I then followed the Oil Life Monitor, with the idea that I will not exceed 7,500 miles (unless a UOA tells me otherwise).

Above 6,000 miles, I prefer a synthetic and am using Pennzoil Platinum 5w20. My oil life minder goes off between 5.5K and 7K +/-, the shorter one during winter.

As always, the only real way to know about oil condition is to do a UOA. I might do this on my upcoming 7K change at 32,000 miles on the odometer.

I have not observed ANY noticeable drop on the dipstick at 7k OCI's. The engine, built in Dundee Michigan, is regarded as being extremely reliable, but unrefined regarding performance. No timing belt, no direct injection. Chrysler bought out the GEMA rights in 2009 and made a few minor improvements. Maintenance is VERY easy and possibly the easiest spark plug replacement on earth. The Tigershark version (Dart)has a bit more get up and go.

At the Patriot forum, you do not see the early suspension problems after the 2011 refresh. I think they got sun roof leak addressed. The 6 speed Powertech transmission also seems to be a great upgrade from the problematic JATCO CVT.

Have fun! Follow the owners manual regarding break in. Vary your speeds initially and I think they still recommend appropriate wide open throttle.

I hope you bargained for the great incentives being offered. In Michigan, I see 2wd Latitude models (1 above base)selling for $17,000 (plus tax and destination)....less than $19k out the door.


What he said!

 

[pbm]

I have recently become interested in the Patriot as an affordable alternative to Subaru, CRV, RAV4 etc...

Doitmyself: You seem very knowledgeable so I have a few questions...1) I know the 6 speed A/T is Hyundai designed and touts 'Lifetime' ATF fluid capability.but wondered if there is a drain plug? Is this a durable unit?
2) What MPGs can be expected with a 2.4, 6 speed A/T and 4x4?
4) What purchase price should I aim for a 4x4 with all the incentives? Thanks

 

[KCJeep]

Good post doitmyself.

I'm not a big fan of 5w20 but it will be just fine in that vehicle IMO.

I'd not baby it during break in though, once full warmed up I'd flog that sucker a bit. JMO.

 

[Branson304]

Have the factory fill changed at 5,000 then change again at 10,000. I always suggest every 5,000 for quality conventionals like PYB, and I always suggest not changing factory fill until 5,000. It's not going to matter. Don't worry so much.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: pbm
I have recently become interested in the Patriot as an affordable alternative to Subaru, CRV, RAV4 etc...

Doitmyself: You seem very knowledgeable so I have a few questions...1) I know the 6 speed A/T is Hyundai designed and touts 'Lifetime' ATF fluid capability.but wondered if there is a drain plug? Is this a durable unit?
2) What MPGs can be expected with a 2.4, 6 speed A/T and 4x4?
4) What purchase price should I aim for a 4x4 with all the incentives? Thanks


I researched the internet about this particular transmission (it's used in numerous Kia/Hyundai vehicles) and I only found a few complaints(fluke type, factory mfg. defect problems). Long term reliability info is scarce. There are three access plugs: drain plug, fill plug, dipstick plug (available aftermarket for $25 - insert for readings only, then put plug back in). The filter is non serviceable (only if the tranny is torn into). Tranny fluid is expensive, with only two or three OEM products available (I don't mess with universal products). The dipstick reading is calibrated to temperature and all that involves. I believe that a person can diy this. Simplest would be to carefully measure the drained out fluid and replace accordingly. There are also work arounds for the temperature readings if you choose that method.

People seem to be getting higher MPG than the sticker shows for 2wd: 28 -31 mpg is often reported (I average 26-30 with gentle driving). 4wd takes quite a hit. There are 2 versions, FDI and FDII. FDII is the trail rated version that includes crawl type gearing, metal skid plates, etc.. I don't keep up with the 4wd info, but I see people complain about low 20's for the FDII. You will need to research this yourself.

I also have not kept up with 4wd prices, but I notice prices in the very low twenties. In Michigan I have been seeing 4 to 6 K off the sticker price advertised.

With the Patriot, you get what you pay for. Accept this up front to avoid buyer's remorse. It's an econobox, entry level vehicle and the fit, finish, and trim reflects that. People complain about small problems: our passenger seat lower plastic trim broke - they found a defective attachment bracket. Door weatherstrip that comes loose - an easy fix. Hood fit (gap)that needs to be tweaked, again a simple adjustment of a few screw type bumpers. All simple annoyances fixed under warranty and nothing like more serious issues that some deal with. I inspected 4 to 6 year old Forest Service Patriots (questionable care)that seem to be holding up well. Many Patriot owners actually gravitate to the "dated" traditional appearance and stick their nose up to the look alike, jelly bean CUV's. Magazine reviews really pick up on the Patriot's outdated fashion sense.

There's more road noise than a mid size sedan. Suspension is a bit stiff. I haven't been in a compact car for decades, but I assume the Patriot is not as bad as the ones I remember. Take a good test drive.

Maintenance seems pretty simple and Diy-able if you plan to save $$ like I do. I think overall cost of ownership will be excellent, even with its depreciation history. The paint seems to be of good quality and is holding up excellent. IMO, rust is getting worse again in general, so this is the first vehicle I am getting annual Krown applications on.

I think the best value is in the models closer to the base offerings, as the options quickly add up. We actually sought out "simple is better" attributes like manual roll down windows. But even the base model comes with tinted windows, ABS, airbags galore, switchable traction control, cruise control, and on and on.

After 2.5 years, I am pleased with ours and would consider another one.

 

[SR5]

Great Jeep Patriot report DoItMySelf

"The engine, built in Dundee Michigan, is regarded as being extremely reliable, but unrefined regarding performance. No timing belt, no direct injection. Chrysler bought out the GEMA rights in 2009 and made a few minor improvements. Maintenance is VERY easy and possibly the easiest spark plug replacement on earth."

It's good to know that some cars still have easy maintenance, it sometimes seems they put no thought into how regular servicing should be supported at the design level.

 

[KCJeep]

So is the 2.4 16 valve dual overhead cam I-4 found in our 01 Sebring the forerunner of this same engine, or totally different? Ours has been a great reliable soldier now at over 180k with no signs of fading, "reliable but unrefined" is a great description it is a noisy little thing.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: KCJeep
So is the 2.4 16 valve dual overhead cam I-4 found in our 01 Sebring the forerunner of this same engine, or totally different? Ours has been a great reliable soldier now at over 180k with no signs of fading, "reliable but unrefined" is a great description it is a noisy little thing.


That's an entirely different engine designed and built by Chrysler. I had 2 short wheelbase Caravans with that engine and they were trouble free. They have a timing belt that requires changing. The GEMA engine does not, and is quieter with a bit more zip.

The only thing I had to repair on those previous 4 cylinder engines was the valve cover/o-rings due to oil leaking into the spark plug well around 125k miles.

The engine was redesigned around 2013 and is now called the Tigershark: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/world-engine.html

 

[Shrubitup]

Considered this vehicle until I read about poor seam welds on sheet metal. Would make a moldy machine in my weather.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: Shrubitup
Considered this vehicle until I read about poor seam welds on sheet metal. Would make a moldy machine in my weather.


It would not surprise me at all. By 2007, when the Patriot came out, Chrysler had been run into the ground by Daimler, then sold to Cerebus to drive the final stake into its soul. They were essentially gutted, going into the 2008 economic crash and quality control was abysmal. My MOPAR dealer mechanic friend said that the post 2009 merger resulted in a phenomenal turn around, based on his wrench turning perspective. The 2011 Patriot refresh had many dozens of changes. Still, its an econobox Dodge Caliber in Jeep clothing.

When I was shopping for CUVs 3 years ago, the Forester oil consumption issue was at its height, scaring me away from it (plus, I really didn't want AWD). I learned that the RAV4 had a few issues such as premature water pump failures. The CRV was solid, but they would not deal in my price range. Mid 2000's CRV's had a significant air conditioner problem. Units would implode and repair costs were in the $3,000 dollar range. Most cars have an achilles heal (the Patriot more than others).

I am not the BITOG guy here that will never touch a certain brand or model because he had a bad experience in the 1960's, or even the prior decade.

 

[pbm]

Quote from DoItMyself:
I researched the internet about this particular transmission (it's used in numerous Kia/Hyundai vehicles) and I only found a few complaints(fluke type, factory mfg. defect problems). Long term reliability info is scarce. There are three access plugs: drain plug, fill plug, dipstick plug (available aftermarket for $25 - insert for readings only, then put plug back in). The filter is non serviceable (only if the tranny is torn into). Tranny fluid is expensive, with only two or three OEM products available (I don't mess with universal products). The dipstick reading is calibrated to temperature and all that involves. I believe that a person can diy this. Simplest would be to carefully measure the drained out fluid and replace accordingly. There are also work arounds for the temperature readings if you choose that method.

People seem to be getting higher MPG than the sticker shows for 2wd: 28 -31 mpg is often reported (I average 26-30 with gentle driving). 4wd takes quite a hit. There are 2 versions, FDI and FDII. FDII is the trail rated version that includes crawl type gearing, metal skid plates, etc.. I don't keep up with the 4wd info, but I see people complain about low 20's for the FDII. You will need to research this yourself.

I also have not kept up with 4wd prices, but I notice prices in the very low twenties. In Michigan I have been seeing 4 to 6 K off the sticker price advertised.

With the Patriot, you get what you pay for. Accept this up front to avoid buyer's remorse. It's an econobox, entry level vehicle and the fit, finish, and trim reflects that. People complain about small problems: our passenger seat lower plastic trim broke - they found a defective attachment bracket. Door weatherstrip that comes loose - an easy fix. Hood fit (gap)that needs to be tweaked, again a simple adjustment of a few screw type bumpers. All simple annoyances fixed under warranty and nothing like more serious issues that some deal with. I inspected 4 to 6 year old Forest Service Patriots (questionable care)that seem to be holding up well. Many Patriot owners actually gravitate to the "dated" traditional appearance and stick their nose up to the look alike, jelly bean CUV's. Magazine reviews really pick up on the Patriot's outdated fashion sense.

There's more road noise than a mid size sedan. Suspension is a bit stiff. I haven't been in a compact car for decades, but I assume the Patriot is not as bad as the ones I remember. Take a good test drive.

Maintenance seems pretty simple and Diy-able if you plan to save $$ like I do. I think overall cost of ownership will be excellent, even with its depreciation history. The paint seems to be of good quality and is holding up excellent. IMO, rust is getting worse again in general, so this is the first vehicle I am getting annual Krown applications on.

I think the best value is in the models closer to the base offerings, as the options quickly add up. We actually sought out "simple is better" attributes like manual roll down windows. But even the base model comes with tinted windows, ABS, airbags galore, switchable traction control, cruise control, and on and on.

After 2.5 years, I am pleased with ours and would consider another one. [/quote]



Thanks DIM.

 

[kmrcstintn]

thanks for the feedback...I'll take it all into consideration; as far as getting what I pay for...I prefer to lean toward more basic vehicles so minor issues usually don't bother me; I prefer manual locks, manual windows, etc to keep things simple (sometimes I end up with power goodies as with my Liberty or a 1993 Pontiac Grand Am I owned many moons ago); I prefer a simple DIY approach to doing oil changes to save money and the Patriot appears to fit this category; the 'sealed transmission' concept is a bit disconcerting...I might invest in an aftermarket dipstick to track fluid level and will have it serviced by a shop that uses a 'flush fill' system machine that uses the connections that go to the radiator to get a more complete fluid exchange; later...

 

[doitmyself]

The dipstick is actually just a measuring stick, 140 mm long from its tip to the top (bottom of the handle), where it sits on the tranny fluid level check port: https://mopar.snapon.com/item-detail.aspx?itemid=5240017&type=tools

A 6 inch pocket engineers ruler would work ($3.00).

The transmission holds 7.5 quarts and you will get about 5 quarts out of the drain plug.

Not sure why it is referred to as a sealed transmission. (the filter is non serviceable??)

The MOPAR Tech Authority Factory Service manual on CD is available out of Canada for about $90 ($135 from U.S.).

O.k., I'm done. Best of luck on your purchase!