NEW JEEP - BREAK-IN / OIL CHANGES

Messages
340
Location
Rochester Hills, MI
O.K. Guys - Here's the deal: Just leased a new Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition with a 4.0 litre inline 6 today for the young & vivacious Mrs. Harbor. It's sitting in my safe & warm garage now with 36 miles on the odometer. Vehicle has 4WD quadra - trac. Lease is for 2 years / 24K miles, and in almost all cases, one of my in-laws / out-laws ( Dr. Phil, I need you NOW) always buys our vehicles upon lease turn-in. So...I'm looking to break it in correctly and to make sure that whichever Deliverance in-bred relative / neighbor buys it, can get the max engine life out of the vehicle. What are your recommendations for: 1) a good engine break-in procedure, and 2) which oil to use at the recommended 3K mile oil changes? I know that the Jeep inline six has been around forever, is almost bullet- proof,indestructable, ...etc. And, yes Christopher Columbus used them in the Nino, Pinto (no, not Ford Pinto) and Santa Maria with no problems other than the reported occasional piston slap on cold start-up by his crew. My plan is to change the oil at 1K with Castrol 10W-30 (with a shot of Schaeffer's Moly < despite the recent disappointing moly post >) and then every 3K thereafter with either Schaeffer's, Pennzoil or Castrol 10W-30 (Attn: Tim Mills - Any 10W-30 deals out there? ) Filters will probably be Wal-Mart Supertech. 5W-30 may be used in the lovely Michigan winters. Any views, comments or opinions to make sure this puppy goes at least 200K? As always, I appreciate and value the input of this knowlegable group. Thanks!
 
Messages
6,388
Location
Washington St.
Your plan sounds good, except 1) Why not buy and then sell to the relation after two years...won't that be cheaper? (I know, they might not want it then.) 2) Why bother with the Castrol & Schaeffer #132...why not just use Schaeffer #703 10W-30 from the get-go? 3) Why the 3000 mile oil drain interval? That's a waste of good oil unless you're just driving a couple of miles, letting the engine cool, and driving a couple more miles each day. You're probably good for a longer ODI...get a couple of oil test kits from Tim and find out for sure. 4) Consider a neobium magnet oil drain plug. It captures abrasive iron & steel wear particles that are too small to be trapped in the oil filter. The ol' boy running SuperPlug ain't 'zactly sharp as the point on a Texas Longhorn's horn, but it is a good product when he finally sends you the right one. http://www.superplug.com/home.php 5) Don't forget the transmission. I believe in filtration. Either an in-line filter/magnet from Magnefine or SPXFiltran, or a big 6-micron in-line filter, the Racor LFS22825, will probably add to transmission life, as will regular ATF changes. If anybody needs a magnet oil drain plug with a 3/4-16 thread, let me know. Ken [ March 28, 2003, 10:50 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
 
Messages
1,992
Location
Windsor,Ontario
I got both my Jeeps both have the 4.0L,the XJ is a 99 and the TJ a 01.After 3000 km with the factory fill I went to the Mobil 10W-30 on both and left it at that,changing oil&filter every 5-6000 miles.The Mobil GREATLY reduced my piston slap on the Cherokee and the TJ never really had a case of piston slap.They both never use any oil that I can see on the stick anyways.After experimenting with different oil filters I'm using the Purolater Premium Plus in the Ford oversize #30001.Both have the Superplug drainplug magnet installed and there's allways a grey slime on the tip when I change the oil,so I guess they are working.I drained and filled both axles three times the first year,now am doing this procedure every two years 75W-90 up front and 75W-140(tow occasionally) out back,synthetic lube(Pennzoil) of course.Drained and filled my trannies once a year same with the transfer cases.Change my air filters once a year,drive in dusty conditions from time to time.Grease front steering linkages twice a year during tire rotation/rim changes(go from alloy to steel rims with aggresive rubber during hunting seasons).Using a tranny filter is a good idea but you are under warranty and the dealer might try and wiggle out of a problem with an obvious mod.such as this,so be carefull here.If you change your lubes regular and break it in you should have no problems...axle lube changes are a VERY good idea...most people neglect this procedure and have prolems down the road...mainly with the front Dana 30.My hunting partner just picked up his 03 Rubicon last week...man is he excited.. [Big Grin]
 
Until recently,I was a line technician/shop foreman for a Chrysler fleet dealer,and have been with Chrysler dealers for 19 years.(I'm now employed by the U.S. Postal Service)My wife has had 2 Jeep Cherokees with the 4.0 engine.The first was a 93 model that went 150,000 before it was involved in an accident and was totalled.I used 10w30 Quaker State and Fram filters,changed every 3K,the trans fluid was drained every 15K,along with a fuel filter change at 15K as well.The trans was the AW-4 and had a drain plug,so I just pulled the plug and drined/refilled the trans fluid.This vehicle did very well,absolutley ZERO problems.We replaced that vehicle with another Cherokee,a 1999 model.I started using Mobil 10w30 dino with Fram filters,but after finding this site,I now use Super Tech 10w30 along with a Super Tech filter(the larger ST8A)also changed at 3K intervals,along with the trans at 15K and the fuel filter too.Of course the vehicle is lubed and air filtered when needed. I live in Florida,and I belive in a 3mo/3K oil change interval.Others may say that's too soon,but it's worked for me.Plus I've had a few customers that have went over 300K doing a 3/3 service interval.Since vehicles are expensive,we keep a vehicle until it has 150-200K on it.I'm not going against what anyone else has posted,but the additional external trans filter may become a warranty issue if the trans ever needs work performed under warranty.It's a good idea,but DaimlerChrysler is usually against any "modifications".I've also serviced the Honda Accord my sister has and she has 320K on it,oil and filter on a 3/3 interval.As a side note,D/C says 3K is under severe service and that 6K is max mileage before the oil has to be changed. As far as break in,I always say to break in and engine like you drive it.I do suggest that you once in a while step on it and let the engine run,as this will seat the rings for long engine life.Chrysler uses moly rings,and these break in well. Chrysler builds very good vehicles,and I'm sure you and the Missus will enjoy the new Jeep.
 
Messages
3,023
Location
USA-Michigan
My former (now retired) employer (state gov) changes oil every 5000 miles and not time limits. They have been doing it this way since I started in 1972. Rarely did we lose any engines and these trucks were run hard. But I must say of the engines that crapped out on us, all were Dudge truck engines. Never did we lose a Ford or GM. 75% of our trucks were Dudge, always gave the state a big fleet discount, up to $3000. Contrary to what some may think, these trucks and cars were maintained locally, we did not have a maintanence facility. Any place that could change oil is where it went. They had over 40+ yrs of service history on 10's of 1000's proved to them any oil change less than 5000 miles was a waste of money and added to polution problem and would not be allowed. So, changing oil every 3000 miles or 3 months is foolish. You are dumping away good oil
 

Patman

Staff member
Messages
21,989
Location
Oakville, Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by Mike: So, changing oil every 3000 miles or 3 months is foolish. You are dumping away good oil
I just posted an 8k run in the UOA section in my sister's car on TriSynthetic Mobil 1, and it showed tons of life left. I immediately thought of all those poor fools who would've done 3 oil changes with Mobil 1 to my single oil change on her car. And with the info I got, I plan on pushing her intervals much further in the future, especially since it's so hard for me to get her to come over to change her oil, she's got such a busy lifestyle (snowboarding, mountain biking, travelling, working mega hours, etc.)
 
Messages
1,992
Location
Windsor,Ontario
Alot depends on driving habits and climate here..if you recycle your oil..as I do..pollution is not an issue on frequent oil changes.Everybody has their own maintenace schedule that works for them.A good rule of thumb is 3-4k on dino and 5-6k on synthetic because not everyone does oil testing...just recycle your oil and don't forget the other lubes as well.
 
Messages
4,478
Location
Southern California
"Recycle"? Gee, what a novel idea! And, here I always thought that backyard fences were intended for dumping old motor oil over... The guy directly behind me glares whenever he sees me, but, hey, since his lot drains naturally from my elevation to his pool, he doesn't have mosquito larvae in it during the spring and summer months either. (His Mrs. and the kids get a quick "tan", too.)
 
Messages
6,388
Location
Washington St.
Chris 2421, With full respect for your training and experience, why a 3000 mile oil drain interval? Sure, it works...you'll just about never have an oil-lubricated engine part problem, but if you also buy new tires, say, every 10,000 miles without even looking at the tread condition, you'll just about never have a tire problem. Instead, we examine the condition of our tires before we decide to replace them. We can also examine the condition of our motor oil before we decide to replace that. I know, big dollar difference, the the idea is the same. I believe that a few oil analyses can give us a guideline for future oil drain intervals that will save us money, time, and also just about never have an oil-lubricated engine part problem. Ken
 
Messages
1,992
Location
Windsor,Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by Ray H: "Recycle"? Gee, what a novel idea! And, here I always thought that backyard fences were intended for dumping old motor oil over... The guy directly behind me glares whenever he sees me, but, hey, since his lot drains naturally from my elevation to his pool, he doesn't have mosquito larvae in it during the spring and summer months either. (His Mrs. and the kids get a quick "tan", too.)
Would stop this activity at once.Especially in California where pollution is a big no-no...take your oil to a depot for proper disposal..or a big fine could be headed your way.
 
Messages
1,992
Location
Windsor,Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by Ken2: Chris 2421, With full respect for your training and experience, why a 3000 mile oil drain interval? Sure, it works...you'll just about never have an oil-lubricated engine part problem, but if you also buy new tires, say, every 10,000 miles without even looking at the tread condition, you'll just about never have a tire problem. Instead, we examine the condition of our tires before we decide to replace them. We can also examine the condition of our motor oil before we decide to replace that. I know, big dollar difference, the the idea is the same. I believe that a few oil analyses can give us a guideline for future oil drain intervals that will save us money, time, and also just about never have an oil-lubricated engine part problem. Ken
Didn't the Firestone tires look good before they blew [Big Grin] ..just yanking your chain Ken..99% of people do the 3 month or 3k change..thats whats advertised by the oil lube places..not too many people do oil sample testing..if it were made available to mainstream vehicle owners,say at lube joints for instance,then it would work against the lube shops and big oil companies.But in all fairness it's better to err on the side of more frequent oil changes..don't you think?
 

harbor

Thread starter
Messages
340
Location
Rochester Hills, MI
I'm with you all on 3K oil changes being a bit too frequent, however, Chrysler now requires them with all retail leases. It's in the contract and probably related to re-sale price. They now give you a service schedule book very similar to Mercedes Benz. I've heard that a used Mercedes with a documented service history commands a much higher price. Thanks for the input.
 
Messages
191
Location
KY
quote:
Originally posted by harbor: I'm with you all on 3K oil changes being a bit too frequent, however, Chrysler now requires them with all retail leases. It's in the contract and probably related to re-sale price.
I didn't know this. Do they require that the dealer perform the service, or can you DIY or take it somewhere of your choosing?
 
Messages
1,992
Location
Windsor,Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by segfault:
quote:
Originally posted by harbor: I'm with you all on 3K oil changes being a bit too frequent, however, Chrysler now requires them with all retail leases. It's in the contract and probably related to re-sale price.
I didn't know this. Do they require that the dealer perform the service, or can you DIY or take it somewhere of your choosing?

As long as you keep your reciepts with dates of service you are good to go to any service outlet or you can do it yourself.
 
Messages
131
Location
Sydney
On the subject of oil changes, it seems that all the people here are "fanatics" about maintenance and hence discuss what oil change intervals work well. 3000 or 5000 miles etc. I include myself in this fanatic category. However, I believe that 95% of people are not in this category and could not care less about their oil. They just follow the logbooks and let the garage give them the best "deal" on oil. This is even more the case with all the leased govt and business cars. The logbooks for the Camry, Holden Commodore, Ford Falcon and Mitusbishi Magna all say 15,000 km oil changes now. This would not be a problem except that they don't make it clear that perhaps you should use a good quality oil. The result is probably cars having the oil changed twice in 3 or 4 years and running the cheapest 10-30 dino for 15,000 km. Then there is the coolant [Eek!] Most of the logbooks have some very long interval for coolant and don't specify that perhaps something more than green food coloring should be used. I looked at 3 Commodores which had come off business leases and all had brown crap in the radiator and only one showed a trace of "green" The result: I am scared to buy an ex-lease or ex-govt car even though you make excellent savings over a new one. I guess you have to determine what is cheaper. Replacing the second-hand car earlier or paying a premium for a new one and peace-of-mind
 
Messages
233
Location
Midwest
Do not put any oil additive in the Jeep, it's brand new! It's a leased vehicle, do regular oil changes with dino oil and get rid of it when you reach two years. Do not waste your money on additives or synthetic for a two year lease, regardles if a relative is going to buy it. Chances are, they are not going to continue the synthetic use. As for oil additives, it's all theory that adding Moly, via an additve, will give you higher protection. I have own four 4.0 Jeep three being Cherokee's and one a Grand Cherokee. My first '92 Cherokee Sport 4.0 is in my brother hands now with 140K+ miles with the oil chages every 5K unitl 80K and who know when he changes it now. As you said, the 4.0 in indeed bulletproof. I am a member of the the Jeepsunlimted.com forum and you will read over andover again 4.0 engines with 200K+ miles and maybe <10% use sythetic in the engine. $24.99 dealer oil change every 5K and you're set.
 
Messages
3,023
Location
USA-Michigan
quote:
Originally posted by Greaser:
quote:
Originally posted by Ray H: "Recycle"? Gee, what a novel idea! And, here I always thought that backyard fences were intended for dumping old motor oil over... The guy directly behind me glares whenever he sees me, but, hey, since his lot drains naturally from my elevation to his pool, he doesn't have mosquito larvae in it during the spring and summer months either. (His Mrs. and the kids get a quick "tan", too.)
Would stop this activity at once.Especially in California where pollution is a big no-no...take your oil to a depot for proper disposal..or a big fine could be headed your way.

Someone I know was telling me his brother-in-law was heavily fined and had to dispose of most of his gravel driveway because someone from the Dept of Enviromental Quality happened to see him duming used engine oil on his gravel drive for dust control. Turns out it would have been cheaper to pave the 200ft + drive with concrete with curb and gutter to pay the fine and the cost to excavate the contaminated soil, have it hauled over 100 miles to a hazzardous waste site and sink the monitoring well for testing of the ground water. He lived about a 1 mile from a stream with a floodplain of over 100 sq miles that was tributary to Lake Michigan. btw-It the state's fault not his, all they were doing was enforcing laws. It has been said that 1 qt of oil can contaminate 1 million gallons of ground water. [ March 31, 2003, 12:15 PM: Message edited by: Mike ]
 
Messages
4,478
Location
Southern California
quote:
Originally posted by Greaser: Would stop this activity at once.Especially in California where pollution is a big no-no...take your oil to a depot for proper disposal..or a big fine could be headed your way.
For what - polluting cyberspace by posting a joke response online? Mellow out a little, Greaser. (Now, if the guy-behind-me's Mrs. and little tykes would just get those nasty body lesions looked at...)
 
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