Originally Posted By: moto367
Hello. New guy here diving into the world of oils. I've always been kind of old school when it came to oils...used conventional and changed every 3-4000 miles. I figured I drove enough to warrant it. Usually that equated monthly oil changes
My question is my wifes new car is a Toyota Camry calling for 0w20. I can only find synthetic. Question
1) Is this available only in synthetic? (now I'm using Mobile 1 Advanced Fuel Economy)
2)I thought I read somewhere (maybe here?) that synthetics have the tendency to "fling off" and not really stay on the moving parts as well as conventional oils. Is this true? I've often wondered about this as many prefer the synthetics on start-up. Does the 0w oils "run off" parts easier during sitting over night, etc. where as say a 5 or 10w oil would more likely stay on things better for that instant lubrication? Thanks in advance and thanks for a very informative forum.
1 - As others have said, yes, 0W20 is only available in synthetic. There are some synthetic blends now available that are less expensive if that is what you are after and if you can find them( not easy ). The 5qt M1 deals on 0W20 synthetic at Wal-Mart are pretty good or you could order oil online as well and save a little more. 0W20 is not easy to find in all markets though so you may be limited to M1 at Wal-Mart locally.
PSC has Kendall GT1 0W20 for less than $5 a qt shipped if you buy 2 cases. Sometimes they even offer free shipping if you have a My UPS Shipping Account which would get it down closer to $4 a qt. I just checked real quick and for 2 cases + shipping to my zip code( shipping varies by zip but it is always the best deal if you buy 2 cases - no more no less ) = $49.32 X 2 = $98.64 + 20.74 shipping = $119.38 / 24 qts = $4.97 p/qt shipped.
Kendall GT1 is excellent oil and is API Certified w/ Starburst. I do not know what other spec your new Toyota may call for and if GT1 meets it but you can check and see. IF it meets your needs it is an excellent oil. Or, just go with the M1 from Wal-Mart.
http://www.petroleumservicecompany.com/1057222.html
2 - Actually, synthetic clings to your engine's internal parts better than conventional oil and, no, it does not fling off. Synthetics leave a film on the parts even after the oil has drained back to the pan whereas conventional oil pretty much drains off after sitting for extended periods( overnight ). So synthetic actually is better at cold start. That film gives extra protection for those vital few seconds before oil flow is achieved.
Synthetics also flow better when cold so they pump through the engine faster when cold. Leave film + pumps faster/better when cold = better product.
A 0W will actually be better at cold start than a 5W or 10W. The # + W indicates the cold viscosity of the oil so the lower it is the better it flows when cold. The other number( 20, 30, 40, etc... )is the viscosity at operating temp.
Originally Posted By: moto367
Not disputing any of you guys but I'm having a hesitant time to let the oil go that long btw/ changes. I understand the manufactures have done their homework, etc. but man...10k miles?!?! At the very least should I change the filter maybe every 4k? Thanks for all the replies and help. I have much to learn.
Use a good quality synthetic oil and a good quality filter( RP, Purolator Synthetic, Bosch Distance Plus, M1, etc... )and 10K is fine if the mfg allows for that long of an OCI. IF you have concerns do a UOA at 5000 and see how it looks. IF things look good try 7500. IF that looks good run it out to 10K and do it again. As long as the UOA shows the oil has useable service life you should be fine. Just use the same oil and filter combo for the UOA's. IF you switch brands( oil anyway )you should do the UOA's again.