new guy with a few questions

Messages
6
Location
Ohio USA
Hello. New guy here diving into the world of oils. I've always been kind of old school when it came to oils...used conventional and changed every 3-4000 miles. I figured I drove enough to warrant it. Usually that equated monthly oil changes My question is my wifes new car is a Toyota Camry calling for 0w20. I can only find synthetic. Question 1) Is this available only in synthetic? (now I'm using Mobile 1 Advanced Fuel Economy) 2)I thought I read somewhere (maybe here?) that synthetics have the tendency to "fling off" and not really stay on the moving parts as well as conventional oils. Is this true? I've often wondered about this as many prefer the synthetics on start-up. Does the 0w oils "run off" parts easier during sitting over night, etc. where as say a 5 or 10w oil would more likely stay on things better for that instant lubrication? Thanks in advance and thanks for a very informative forum.
 
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13,384
Location
ROCHESTER, NY
To answer your 1st Q: YES, "0" oils only come in synthetic! Your 2nd Q: Not sure! I have read/heard the same thing about synthetic oils not adhering to metal parts as well as conventional(dino) oils. But, I don't know(IDK) if this is true. The engine may not care. Lower weight oils lubricate faster in extreme cold, than the higher weight oils. But, how cold it has to be to matter, IDK that either. And in the ))HOT(( temps, the synthetic oils may run off the metal parts but, whether it's overnight or over a week, IDK! But, because they lube faster, it may not matter either! IDK but, others will! smile CB
 
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9,783
Location
Saskatoon canada
Pao isn't polar,but poe's are,as are group 3 synthetic basestocks so the answer to your question is yes and no. Most common syns use a group 3 basestock which are polar however most extended drain oils contain a higher concentration of pao but in all honestly it's a non issue. As far as pumpability goes that's only an issue in extreme cold,so if you live in a warmer climate it's not a huge deal. Your engine requires a 0w-20 because they are all synthetics and have a high minimum standard because of the long drains expected of it. As all here will confirm I'm not a mobil fan at all however their afe 0w-20 is the best oil for the price on the shelf. There might be better oils out there but they cost significantly more and might perform marginally better. So stick with the afe and follow the oil life monitor and the wheels will fall off the car before the engine wears out.
 
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1,869
Location
Texas
Your wifes car calls for syn so use it and make sure to use a filter that can go the same mileage asthe oil like a Fram Ultra or Mobil 1 I run syn in wifes car and plain old dino in my truck Different oils for different cars with no issues Welcome and learn to filter out some of the [censored] on here
 
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1,537
Location
texas
If you are driving 3-4k miles per month, I think most would recommend that you use a long life filter and go at least 10k miles between oil changes. 12-15k is possible with the right oil and filter.
 
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14,843
Location
Illinois
As stated above, M1 0-20 is one of the better 0-20 oils. I've been using it at 10K OCIs in both Fords for about four years now. Both engines are like new clean through the oil fill hole, my I4s are very quite and smooth with no oil use between 10K changes.
 
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1,509
Location
gulf coast FL.U.S.
I have noticed on vehicles i've owned that syn rolls like a bead down the dipstick and internals as well.The Frontier was the worst to read with fresh oil,but all my engines to some degree exhibit the same effect. The oil system will lube what it needs to under pressure so the sling effect doesn't bother me,i just accept it as a characteristic of certain syns.
 
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14,843
Location
Illinois
Originally Posted By: FL_Rob
I have noticed on vehicles i've owned that syn rolls like a bead down the dipstick and internals as well.The Frontier was the worst to read with fresh oil,but all my engines to some degree exhibit the same effect. The oil system will lube what it needs to under pressure so the sling effect doesn't bother me,i just accept it as a characteristic of certain syns.
With M1, the oil clings to the dip stick very well even when hot. I even checked a cam lobe with my finger, which can be seen through the oil fill hole, and it retained oil on it's surfice for days.
 
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moto367

Thread starter
Messages
6
Location
Ohio USA
Not disputing any of you guys but I'm having a hesitant time to let the oil go that long btw/ changes. I understand the manufactures have done their homework, etc. but man...10k miles?!?! At the very least should I change the filter maybe every 4k? Thanks for all the replies and help. I have much to learn.
 
Messages
1,537
Location
texas
I used to think it was daring to go 4500 miles between changes. Now I go 7500. But it takes me 7 months to get there in an old beater. You shouldn't be spending so much time and money changing/wasting oil. It's pretty well proven here that if you never change the oil, just top it off, the engine will conk out at 70k miles. All the changes you do just get you from 70 to X.
 
Messages
1,869
Location
Texas
I know it is hard at first going 10-15k on changes but with a name brand syn oil it is fine Filters like Fram Ultra and Mobil 1 are good for 15k easy I had to increase my changes a little at a time-4k up to 6k Then 6k-8k Then up to 10k Now I am happy with 12k changes using syn I dont know if I will make it to 15k Lol Just take baby steps
 
Messages
2,766
Location
Bend, Oregon
Since you do lots of mile each month....I would suggest the following: M-1 0w20EP (guaranteed up to 15k Fram Ultra filter, also guaranteed for 15k. Do a UOA (used oil analysis) at 10k with Blackstone and if all is well and your oil continues to have sufficient life left in it....start moving up to 12,500....and then to 15k
 
Messages
17,298
Location
OH
1. No, Honda sells a blend 0W-20 and there is a Valvoline Maxlife blend 0W-20. 2. PAO oils have poor polarity, while esters and Grp IIIs have good polarity. Since there are no oils formulated with PAO basestocks alone, there is no concern. Assuming that the Toy's OLM accounts for differences in use, which it probably does, there's no reason not to follow it. Nothing at all wrong with the M1 AFE you're using, but there are other oils in this grade to consider. Toyota Genuine 0W-20 is certainly one such oil. I don't know where you are in Ohio, but you can often find TGMO on CL for less than the Walmart cost of the M1 you're using. I bought eleven quarts of it a few months back for forty dollars from a CL listing, so there are some deals out there. Many Toy dealers will also discount the oil if you buy in quantity. Maybe you should have made a lifetime supply of TGMO at four bucks a quart a part of the deal when you bought the Camry? I'd bet that if they either agreed to that or you'd walk, you'd have gotten it. Welcome to BITOG!
 
Messages
17,595
Location
Upper Midwest
I really don't see how that could happen unless the dipstick is coated with Teflon or something, or the oil is contaminated. But you say it happens on the internals as well, so that makes me think you have some sort of contamination. Oil, synthetic or otherwise will not bead up and run off a clean metal surface.
Originally Posted By: FL_Rob
I have noticed on vehicles i've owned that syn rolls like a bead down the dipstick and internals as well.The Frontier was the worst to read with fresh oil,but all my engines to some degree exhibit the same effect. The oil system will lube what it needs to under pressure so the sling effect doesn't bother me,i just accept it as a characteristic of certain syns.
 
Messages
6,930
Location
NH
Originally Posted By: moto367
Hello. New guy here diving into the world of oils. I've always been kind of old school when it came to oils...used conventional and changed every 3-4000 miles. I figured I drove enough to warrant it. Usually that equated monthly oil changes My question is my wifes new car is a Toyota Camry calling for 0w20. I can only find synthetic. Question 1) Is this available only in synthetic? (now I'm using Mobile 1 Advanced Fuel Economy) 2)I thought I read somewhere (maybe here?) that synthetics have the tendency to "fling off" and not really stay on the moving parts as well as conventional oils. Is this true? I've often wondered about this as many prefer the synthetics on start-up. Does the 0w oils "run off" parts easier during sitting over night, etc. where as say a 5 or 10w oil would more likely stay on things better for that instant lubrication? Thanks in advance and thanks for a very informative forum.
1 - As others have said, yes, 0W20 is only available in synthetic. There are some synthetic blends now available that are less expensive if that is what you are after and if you can find them( not easy ). The 5qt M1 deals on 0W20 synthetic at Wal-Mart are pretty good or you could order oil online as well and save a little more. 0W20 is not easy to find in all markets though so you may be limited to M1 at Wal-Mart locally. PSC has Kendall GT1 0W20 for less than $5 a qt shipped if you buy 2 cases. Sometimes they even offer free shipping if you have a My UPS Shipping Account which would get it down closer to $4 a qt. I just checked real quick and for 2 cases + shipping to my zip code( shipping varies by zip but it is always the best deal if you buy 2 cases - no more no less ) = $49.32 X 2 = $98.64 + 20.74 shipping = $119.38 / 24 qts = $4.97 p/qt shipped. Kendall GT1 is excellent oil and is API Certified w/ Starburst. I do not know what other spec your new Toyota may call for and if GT1 meets it but you can check and see. IF it meets your needs it is an excellent oil. Or, just go with the M1 from Wal-Mart. http://www.petroleumservicecompany.com/1057222.html 2 - Actually, synthetic clings to your engine's internal parts better than conventional oil and, no, it does not fling off. Synthetics leave a film on the parts even after the oil has drained back to the pan whereas conventional oil pretty much drains off after sitting for extended periods( overnight ). So synthetic actually is better at cold start. That film gives extra protection for those vital few seconds before oil flow is achieved. Synthetics also flow better when cold so they pump through the engine faster when cold. Leave film + pumps faster/better when cold = better product. A 0W will actually be better at cold start than a 5W or 10W. The # + W indicates the cold viscosity of the oil so the lower it is the better it flows when cold. The other number( 20, 30, 40, etc... )is the viscosity at operating temp.
Originally Posted By: moto367
Not disputing any of you guys but I'm having a hesitant time to let the oil go that long btw/ changes. I understand the manufactures have done their homework, etc. but man...10k miles?!?! At the very least should I change the filter maybe every 4k? Thanks for all the replies and help. I have much to learn.
Use a good quality synthetic oil and a good quality filter( RP, Purolator Synthetic, Bosch Distance Plus, M1, etc... )and 10K is fine if the mfg allows for that long of an OCI. IF you have concerns do a UOA at 5000 and see how it looks. IF things look good try 7500. IF that looks good run it out to 10K and do it again. As long as the UOA shows the oil has useable service life you should be fine. Just use the same oil and filter combo for the UOA's. IF you switch brands( oil anyway )you should do the UOA's again.
 
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Messages
61
Location
SC
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
1. No, Honda sells a blend 0W-20 and there is a Valvoline Maxlife blend 0W-20. 2. PAO oils have poor polarity, while esters and Grp IIIs have good polarity. Since there are no oils formulated with PAO basestocks alone, there is no concern. Assuming that the Toy's OLM accounts for differences in use, which it probably does, there's no reason not to follow it. Nothing at all wrong with the M1 AFE you're using, but there are other oils in this grade to consider. Toyota Genuine 0W-20 is certainly one such oil.
According to the Valvoline website, they do not make a 0W-20 synthetic blend oil. http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/ Toyota does not use an oil life monitor. A service light in the dash illuminates every 5000 miles....tire rotation every 5K, oil and filter every 10K. Hundreds of thousands of Toyotas running 10K with factory Toyota oil filters. Mobil makes Toyota 0W-20 oil.
 
Messages
6,638
Location
South Florida
A few years ago, Toyota offered 2 years/24K miles of free maintenance with the purchase of a car. When you read the fine print, it basically amounted to two free synthetic 0W20 oil changes at 10K and 20K miles. It was a marketing strategy that "impressed" buyers. Would you be more likely to buy a car with two free oil changes or 2 years/24K miles of free maintenance? 10K miles could be way too long of an interval on certain cars and conservative on others. If mostly highway driving, don't be afraid to do the recommended 10K mile intervals. It will be fine. It really is hard to change that 3K mile habit that we have been so accustomed to for so long. If you are REALLY set on changing your oil sooner, I would have no problem running conventional 5W20 and changing it every 5K miles.
 
Messages
10,146
Location
Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Nothing at all wrong with the M1 AFE you're using, but there are other oils in this grade to consider. Toyota Genuine 0W-20 is certainly one such oil. I don't know where you are in Ohio, but you can often find TGMO on CL for less than the Walmart cost of the M1 you're using. I bought eleven quarts of it a few months back for forty dollars from a CL listing, so there are some deals out there. Many Toy dealers will also discount the oil if you buy in quantity. Maybe you should have made a lifetime supply of TGMO at four bucks a quart a part of the deal when you bought the Camry? I'd bet that if they either agreed to that or you'd walk, you'd have gotten it. Welcome to BITOG!
Yes I have to agree the best oil for your wife's Camry is not surprisingly the OEM 0W-20. TGMO 0W-20 has a unique formulation that is not available in any other OTC aftermarket 0W-20.
 
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