New guy here... some questions about M1 & RP

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4
Location
Houston
Hello guys... a short quick intro about me: Jonathon Talley owner of http://www.v6f150.com I also own a 2002 4.2 V6 F150 that I have modified and race on a regular basis. Currently the motor is at the machine shop undergoing repairs (2 spun rod bearings) but prior to these repairs the motor has 80,000 miles in the 2 years I have owned it. I do use nitrous and for about 4 months I was using about 18lbs of nitrous a week. My oil of choice was royal purple 10w-30 and I always change oil every 3,000 miles with oil filter. Well considering I am an owner of a automotive message board I am here to educate my mind further to help benifit my members. Is the Royal Purple street oil 10w-30 truly use a group III base oil? and does the new M1 SuperSyn reall based off a POA? When the motor is finished getting rebuilt I plan on getting an oil analyzed every 2,000 miles. I do drive between 30,000 - 40,000 miles a year along with visiting the dragstrip about 2 times a month and once a month autocross events and an occasional open road course event. My motor does go through some heavy abuse and I think maybe not using the proper oil for my driving habits is what made the bearings to go bad. So, heres ur chance to kinda recommend me an oil to start off with and to get test results every 2k miles. I've always used RP but when it wasn't availabe I've used M1. Always used Motorcraft oil filter. any recommendations here?
 
Messages
917
Location
Singapore
[Welcome!] RP is PAO base exclusive of carrier oil. Latest speculation I heard, M1 SS is PAO + AN. For your kind of driving, you're better off using race oils. Maybe RP racing oils or M1 R oils. And UOAs to keep an eye on the wear.
 
Messages
1,759
Location
Elizabeth City NC
I agree with Ken4. Mobil 1 is an excellent product and it does sound like the Racing formula would fit your driving style. Dependent on where you live you could also try 15w-50 mobil 1. I understand the Royal Purple Racing oil is fairly good also. Don't use the Royal Purple 10w-30 street oil. I used it in my Miata and it thinned out to quickly. I think the formula has been improved since I used it but it is still not the right oil for heavy abuse in my opinion. Whatever you use do a UOA as it tells you if its working in your application otherwise You just don't know. And Welcome to this great site. [Welcome!] Yes you can do extended drains when your UOA says you can. [ May 28, 2004, 09:51 PM: Message edited by: TR3-2001SE ]
 
Messages
494
Location
Washington DC area
I woudl definitely look into going thicker. the increase cylinder pressures from the nitrous really squeezes the oil from between the crank and the upper rod bearing. you need an oil whose film strength is quite high, as well as a high level of moly and ZDDP.
 

Talley

Thread starter
Messages
4
Location
Houston
not really sure what those abbr. means but hopefully i'll learn soon. I live in Houston Texas home of hot freakin summers. Some other info about my truck... I have 4.10 gears and my overdrive in my manual transmission is a 80% ratio. cruising at 80mph my RPMs are 3,000 even. Considering this is also my daily driver (I drive up to 40k/yr) I consistently see 1hr trips twice a day to/from work and the rpms will be 3,000rpm the 80% of the time. I think I should invest in a bypass filter system and oil cooler as well. I would like to do extended drain intervals but that is all up to how the UAOs turn out I guess. I just need to find me a good oil that will stand up to the abuse my motor will see. considering my motor is going through a rebuild right now I want to start off on the right step this time.
 
Messages
1,488
Location
Los Angeles
Welcome, You should go to the Used Oil Analysis (UOA) section and look at UOAs of Royal Purple. What you will find is that the 10w-30 sometimes shears but Royal Purple Racing 41 is more shear stable. It also has a better base stock. It is POA and ester.
 
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2,569
Location
College Dorm...
quote:
Originally posted by Talley: I live in Houston Texas home of hot freakin summers. I think I should invest in a bypass filter system and oil cooler as well. I would like to do extended drain intervals but that is all up to how the UAOs turn out I guess. I just need to find me a good oil that will stand up to the abuse my motor will see. considering my motor is going through a rebuild right now I want to start off on the right step this time.
No need for a bypass filter, oil cooler or extended drain intervals at this point. Start off by running a top quality lube and high-flow filter (Run a very good air filter as well and check over intake system for any leaks) and go from there... If this were my truck: M1 15w-50 K&N Oil Filter [ May 29, 2004, 01:15 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
 
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2,602
Location
The Tropics of Antartica
quote:
Originally posted by Talley: So, heres ur chance to kinda recommend me an oil to start off with and to get test results every 2k miles. I've always used RP but when it wasn't availabe I've used M1. Always used Motorcraft oil filter. any recommendations here?
Welcome ! I would use the Synergyn 3w-30 in that motor and test at 5k miles initially after a brief break-in to see where your at . It's 4.70 a quart if purchased in a 5 gallon bucket . If you would like to spend more the new Mobil 0w-30R would be a good one as well . I can honestly think of no other oils that would do better for you and this engine along with how it's driven at this time .
 
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