New car... should I let the dealer change the oil?

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GM doesn't recommend changing the oil sooner on the break-in oil. I understand a lot of people do, but why wouldn't GM recommend that if it were necessary? Weren't car manufacturers the ones who recommended short first oil changes on older engines anyway?

Originally Posted By: 3putter
Many GM dealers are using Mobil Clean 5000 as their bulk oil. That's what it comes with from the factory. When I bought my new Malibu I negotiated 3 free oil changes at the dealer, so I will do that and go by the OLM....which is taking me out to 11,000 miles. Gasp !

I too have the Ecotech engine. It looks unbelievably simple to service with the filter cannister up top and easily accessible and you can reach the drain plug w/out even putting the vehicle on ramps. When I use up my freebies, I'll be servicing it myself.


How can you get to the drain plug without ramps? I know the Malibu is pretty low too...
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Only trust 2 sevice bays out of 10 around here. U Wont know till you try though.

-Funny note: I had a new, big ford truck and brought it in for my free oil change. They have a quick OC spot at the dealership with glass windows so you can watch from the service waiting area. Well, the service person was this very short woman, and she required a ladder(!)to open my hood. She got bulk oil in a pitcher and climbed the ladder. She could barely reach the oil fill. I saw here pouring the oil for what seemed an eternity. When I got the vehicle back - I routinely check the level befor driving off. When I opened the hood I saw oil splashed ALL OVER THE PLACE; on hoses and belts and the battery and fan shroud. I checked the level on the dipstick and it was almost a quart low. So 5 qts in the engine and 1 everywhere else
wink.gif
Needless to say, I didnt get any more free OC's at this Ford shop in Salem NH.


Too funny, I know that dealer. I've heard some bad things. This is why I never had any warranty work done there.
I had all my warranty work done at Gladstone in Londonderry, or Regan in Haverhill.
 
I let the dealer change my factory fill since I was a little uneducated on whether this was required or not. After that, I've been the only one changing oil on my car. I did have one exception when I was working out of town and had no choice but to let the dealer change it. It was in LA, cost for just an oil change, $90.

It's amazing, the first time I got under the car after that, the edges of the drain bolt were rounded like the "tech" used the wrong size socket. The oil filter required a wrench to take it off. This is why I never let anyone touch my stuff.
 
Change your oil yourself and keep good records for oil and filter purchases. I run QS Horsepower and Purolator filters on my girls Cobalt and run it til the OLM hits 0%.
 
I agree with everyone else. I went through the same dilema when I bought my Malibu. Just do it yourself. I gave up on my dealer when I saw the tech install a NEW oil filter on my Silverado with a filter wrench and crank it as tight as he could. Had to drive a screwdriver through that one to get it off...


Honestly, run a good syn for the full length of the OLM and enjoy your extended drain. The OLM for the Ecotec motors is a bit excessive, as it's likely to be 9-12K OCIs. Advance Auto sells the AC Delco (PF457G) filter for cheaper than most aftermarket filters (Purolator, Bosch, Wix, etc).
 
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I would advise to change your own oil. All you have to is keep your reciets, in the long run you will save alot of money changing your own oil vs. handing over the job to any stealership.
 
I agree we could all do a better job than the dealer....but I ain't gettin' under a 3500# car for $20,which is what my dealer charges. Different strokes.
 
Originally Posted By: Sink
How can you get to the drain plug without ramps?


I always do mine without any ramps or jacks; just a shallow pan. It helps if you have strong hands because if you don't you might require more physical room for greater leverage.

Actually, if you have a 2.2 Ecotec you probably have the FE1 suspension, which should give you a bit more ground clearance. Give it a try, I'm sure you can do it.
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
I agree we could all do a better job than the dealer....but I ain't gettin' under a 3500# car for $20,which is what my dealer charges. Different strokes.

You get what you pay for.
 
Originally Posted By: css9450
Originally Posted By: Sink
How can you get to the drain plug without ramps?


I always do mine without any ramps or jacks; just a shallow pan. It helps if you have strong hands because if you don't you might require more physical room for greater leverage.

Actually, if you have a 2.2 Ecotec you probably have the FE1 suspension, which should give you a bit more ground clearance. Give it a try, I'm sure you can do it.


I've got a 2003 Olds Alero with a 2.2 Ecotec, and have changed the oil without ramps. It's a little tight clearance wise, but I also have a pretty tall catch pan. With a shallower catch pan it would be much easier.
 
I can easily reach the plug on my 02 Ecotec without jacking it up. Since I am always the last one to have tightened it, it is never over tightened.
 
I'm at about 500 miles on the new motor... I'm going to go ahead and do my own oil changes as recommended. And the more I think about it, the more I like the idea of being involved from the start of the vehicle's life. I want to run a good synthetic that will be good throughout the OLM's interval.

When should I change out the factory fill?
 
If you don't have ramps or jackstands or just don't trust them, you can always do the old-school way: park half the car on the curb
 
Originally Posted By: tonycarguy
If you don't have ramps or jackstands or just don't trust them, you can always do the old-school way: park half the car on the curb


Pretty good idea. With my truck I could park it over a ditch or drive it sideways up a huge dirt pile at my uncle's house. Can't do that stuff with a little car, though.

Still looking for an opinion or two on changing the break-in oil. I know these opinions will vary by the results from my search... But I've already narrowed it down some: I'm driving it gently during breakin, I'm not using any break-in additives, and I kept the factory fill in her. :)

When should I switch out the Factory Fill? For synthetic, or for 1-2 intervals on dino before synthetic?
 
Just keep a good log book and staple your receipts and UPCs in it. I think you'd get more enjoyment and peace of mind out of doing it yourself.
 
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