New car question?

Brian Miller_dup1 · Sep 28, 2003

We just bought a Hyundai Santa Fe this last weekend. It has the all aluminum V6 in it.

My question is: When should I do the first oil change, and can I use Mobil 1 at that time, or do I need to wait for the engine to reach a certain mileage? I was planning on using the Mobil 1 10W-30. When we first brought it home, I pulled the dip stick to look at the oil, and after checking it, there was this gray stuff on the rag???? This didn't make me feel real good!

Also, as far as an oil filter, would a Wix be OK with Mobil 1 oil (I like Wix, and that is what I have always used), or should I use something like a Pure One or Mobil 1 filter?

Thank you all for your help. This board and all the people on it have been a great learning tool...I finally decided to sign up!

Brian Miller

Patman · Sep 28, 2003

If your owner's manual doesn't specifically say you must wait until a certain mileage to change the oil, you can do it whenever you want, anywhere from 500 miles to 3000 miles. I honestly think it doesn't hurt too much to wait until 3k.

As far as filters go, the Wix is an excellent filter, and I'd recommend it over the M1 or PureONE due to it's superior flow.

Oh ya, one more thing:

[ September 29, 2003, 09:58 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]

Al · Sep 28, 2003

I might be tempted to take it back to the dealer and at least show it to him.

But if it's like most dealers the results will be less than satisfactory. I would try to find some information in the manual and Hundai's technical department that says you should not change the fluid before x miles. If I could find none I would eject that oil.

For what it's worth My Nissan Sentra engine is all aluminum and I changed to Mobil 1 10W-30 the minute I got the vehicle home. It had 30 miles on it. It consumes about an ounce every 1000 miles (if that)

Dr. T · Sep 28, 2003

I agree...check the owner's manual first...no big deal to wait as M-1 isn't the "cat's meow" when it come's to lubes anyway....in either case, what grade does the owner's manual spec?

Brian Miller_dup1 · Sep 28, 2003

Thanks for all the answers so far.

The owners manual doesn't say anything about the factory fill being in for "X" amount of miles. All it says is the first oil change should be done at 3,000 miles for severe service or 7,500 miles for normal service.

As far as the weight of oil, the manual leaves that up to the driver. They have a chart of viscosity numbers:
5W-20 below 14 deg. F.
5W-30 below 50 deg. F.
5W-40 below 68 deg. F.
10W-40 or -50 above -13 deg. F.
10W-30 between -13 and 104 deg. F.
15W-40 or -50 above 5 deg. F.
20W-40 or -50 above 14 deg. F.

I had chosen the 10W-30 because those are the average temps that the Dallas area stays in (sometimes it is a little hotter or cooler, but those are average).

Thank you,
Brian Miller

Ken2 · Sep 29, 2003

I'd give that engine one or two short mileage oil changes to be sure all manufacturing debris and break-in particles are washed out, then change to Mobil 1 at, say 3000 or 5000.

Ken

rugbykiwi · Sep 29, 2003

Brian...I have a 2003 Santa Fe V6 and I changed to Pennzoil 10w/30 synthetic after I had done 5500 kilometres [approx 3500 miles]. I have now done 11500 ks with no problems and no oil use at all. In New Zealand Hyundai recommend 15000 ks service intervals which is one of the reasons I changed to synthetic...also the V6 engine will rev to around 15-1700 revs at cold start up another reason to use synthetic...I chose Pennzoil synthetic purely because of cost...5 litres in NZ costs me $48.00NZ...Mobil 1 is over $70.00 for only 4 litres. After talking to our local Hyundai service manager 10w/30 seemed to be the right choice for our climate and also he did tell me that he believes the Hyundai V6 is "run in" after 100 ks..

rugbykiwi

eljefino · Sep 29, 2003

The only new gasoline engine I've ever changed oil on was my lawnmower but its factory fill was grey and sparkly. I would not worry about that one bit in your Hyundai.

PS congrats to them for allowing a decent range of viscosities.

TR3-2001SE · Sep 30, 2003

I agree with Ken2. Several quick changes to insure nothing from the factory is left inside then go to synthetic. About 7500 miles is were I started with the synthetic.

unDummy · Sep 30, 2003

Check out those manual rec's. Just about any oil can be used.

Maybe I'm anal, but every new car purchase here gets an instant oil change usually with a dino oil. Then I switch to synth whenever the oil consumpution stops(usually at 1-2k miles).

Did you get the 2.7L or 3.5L? Good luck with it.

Your choice of Wix and Mobil1 are perfect.

pscholte · Sep 30, 2003

Brian,

I would change at 500 miles using dino and then at 3000 miles using Mobil 1. With that nice menu of viscosities they give you, I'd even consider 10W30 from October - March and (here come the flaming arrows) 15W50 from April - September. I lived in the D for many years and I KNOW what summer is like there. Your gas mileage will go down fractionally with the 15W50 but oh what marvelous protection you will get when the temps are over 100ºF for 80 days straight and it never gets below 85ºF at night.

[ September 30, 2003, 06:22 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]

Ray H · Sep 30, 2003

quote:

Originally posted by unDummy:
Did you get the 2.7L or 3.5L?

The 3.5 V-6 is based on an older Mitsubishi-designed block and is cast iron with aluminum heads. Brian got the 2.7 liter Hyundai-designed engine that's also used in the Sonata, Kia Optima, and Tiburon. It's the all aluminum one and is 5 lbs lighter than the Hyundai 2.4 liter iron block I-4.

Brian, keep in mind that Hyundai recommends an extended break-in to 1,200 miles in the owner's manual - long by current standards. I followed that with my Sonata. I also drained at 600 miles and poured 5W-30 in as a break-in aid (don't really know whether I gained anything or not). Then, at 3,000 miles, out came the 5W-30 and in went Chevron Supreme "IsoSyn" 10W-30 (hydrogen isomerized conventional) and that's what I've used since. I figure since the first 100,000 miles or ten years any powertrain repairs are Hyundai's problem, I decided on conventional oil. Conventional's all the dealers would use anyway. All I have to document is that I change the oil and filter on schedule and be able to present receipts for material to do so. I go with the "severe service" schedule. That way, in the event of trouble, there'll be no question whether I overdrove the oil between changes. So far (7,600 miles & counting...), the engine's been purring like a kitten, the fuel mileage is great, and the engine uses no measurable quantity of oil according to the dipstick between oil and filter changes. Hyundai's oil filters appear to be very well made and my dealer sells 3 for $9.90. But, I wouldn't hesitate to use WallyWorld SuperTech 3593s at $1.97, either. (WallyWorld's listings say to use the 6007. I've seen thimbles with more capacity.)

Brian Miller_dup1 · Sep 30, 2003

quote:

With that nice menu of viscosities they give you, I'd even consider 10W30 from October - March and (here come the flaming arrows) 15W50 from April - September. I lived in the D for many years and I KNOW what summer is like there. Your gas mileage will go down fractionally with the 15W50 but oh what marvelous protection you will get when the temps are over 100ºF for 80 days straight and it never gets below 85ºF at night.

It's funny that you said this, because the dealer recomended that I use 20w-50 year round. I thought that was a little thick for the winter! I'm going with the 10w-30 for this winter, and if I need to, I will go with the 15w-50 for the "desert" that we call Dallas.

Thanks to everyone for the great replys. Brian Miller

[ September 30, 2003, 06:54 PM: Message edited by: Brian Miller ]

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