I just got a new 2005 Toyota Camry LE -V6. Haven't bought a new car in 10 years. From reading the board I plan to use Toyota OEM oil filters. Can some of the experts here advise when I should do my first oil change and what brand oil to use in this engine. Toyota dealer says to change the oil at 5000 miles and use dyno oil. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
New Camry Oil Change
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I've read on another thread a while back that the Toyota "sludgemaster" V6 engine had its oil return channels drilled larger to elliminate the pooling responsible for the sludging issue. Presuming that's so, and that Toyota has consistently been noted for basic design goodness, I doubt you have much to worry about, now. Nevertheless, most manufacturers have a two-tier policy regarding oil change intervals - "regular" and "severe", with "severe" specified at 3 month or 3,000 mile intervals. It seems to me that if you're concerned at all, go with the "severe" recommendations with a good conventional* such as Pennzoil, Castrol GTX, Havoline, or Chevron Supreme - the latter two typically very attractively priced with Havoline typically being available at more locations**. If Toyota is like most other manufacturers, they allow the use of synthetics, but don't differentiate longer oil change intervals to maintain the warranty. My SOP with my 2003 Hyundai Sonata is, if Hyundai wants to see "severe" service intervals of 3 mos/3,000 miles over the duration of the 10yr./100,000 mile powertrain warranty without blinking an eye in case I have to submit a warranty claim, why should I spend the extra money on expensive synthetics? For what it's worth, I changed the factory-fill oil and filter at 600 miles, and then again at 3,000 miles. The engine's been on a 3,000 mile regimen ever since. (But then, I live in a temperate climate and enjoy any excuse to crawl under the car...)
*Most current conventional 5W-30 motor oils have significant if not total usage of at least Group II hydro-finished base lube stocks.
**Both Chevron Supreme and Havoline are produced by ChevronTexaco. The product data sheets available online in PDF form are identical, grade for grade, save for a 0.2 higher figure for the Total Base Numbers (faovoring Havoline). Real or typo? You be the judge. But, it doesn't sound very significant.
*Most current conventional 5W-30 motor oils have significant if not total usage of at least Group II hydro-finished base lube stocks.
**Both Chevron Supreme and Havoline are produced by ChevronTexaco. The product data sheets available online in PDF form are identical, grade for grade, save for a 0.2 higher figure for the Total Base Numbers (faovoring Havoline). Real or typo? You be the judge. But, it doesn't sound very significant.
Whoa...back to the ol' reliable 3K, 3-month regimen? Can't disagree, but it seems like there has been no advance in OCI. Isn't that one purpose of this board?
If your going that route, I would think you could "do" Pennzoil 5W-30/10W-30 OCI's of 4K, 4-mo and pick up their free 250K, 10-yr. warranty. Or QS with the same warranty.
MotorBike on another post indicated that the Motorcraft oils may be even better than Havoline, although Havoline is also mighty fine according to most on here. The UOA's certainly back that up. Some others think Citgo's SuperGard and Mystik lines are way under-rated.
If your going that route, I would think you could "do" Pennzoil 5W-30/10W-30 OCI's of 4K, 4-mo and pick up their free 250K, 10-yr. warranty. Or QS with the same warranty.
MotorBike on another post indicated that the Motorcraft oils may be even better than Havoline, although Havoline is also mighty fine according to most on here. The UOA's certainly back that up. Some others think Citgo's SuperGard and Mystik lines are way under-rated.
If you want to keep the vehicle as long as possible I would go with Mobil1 5w30 or 10w30 at the NORMAL SERVICE interval 6 months 7500 miles. I would change the initial fill at 1500-3000 miles and the first interval of M1 a little early. The first interval of M1 change around 4500 on the oil or 4 months. You can then proceed with NORMAL SERVICE with the quality synthetics.
If you intend on not keeping this car then I would go with Chevron Supreme 10w30 at 6 months or 5000 miles.
Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, 2.7 Liter , Mobil1 Synthetic SS 5W-30.
ODO 9100Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner 3.0 V6, Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 91400 Miles.
http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer
If you intend on not keeping this car then I would go with Chevron Supreme 10w30 at 6 months or 5000 miles.
Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, 2.7 Liter , Mobil1 Synthetic SS 5W-30.
ODO 9100Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner 3.0 V6, Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 91400 Miles.
http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer
I didn't think that the 2005 Camry was out yet!
I'm a member of another site that includes a guy who works in the Georgetown plant. Word from him was that the '05s were to begin rolling down the line on June 6th, so I suppose they are just hitting the dealerships about now.
Farbie,
I would change the factory oil at about 1,500 miles using a quality dino 10w-30. Then, I would change again at 5,000 miles and every 5,000 miles thereafter using the same high quality dino oil. While I agree that synthetic oil is superior, I don't feel you or your engine will ever know the difference.
I would change the factory oil at about 1,500 miles using a quality dino 10w-30. Then, I would change again at 5,000 miles and every 5,000 miles thereafter using the same high quality dino oil. While I agree that synthetic oil is superior, I don't feel you or your engine will ever know the difference.
You extended OCIers can play beat the clock with 7,500 mile intervals if you want to - it's your own cars. (My personal take of this forum is that it's about knowledge, not playing Russian roulette with the automotive grim reaper.) The 3 mo./3,000 mile OCI leaves the manufacturer very little wiggle room in case of a problem. (Hard for them to claim it's "oil related" when documentation and receipts of following a conservative regimen are presented!) In 15,000 miles I spend $42.25 for five oil and filter changes at the rate of #1.29/qt and $2.00/change for 5 ST filters. In the same mileage interval for Mobil 1 @ 4.80/qt for two oil and ST filter changes, I would have spent $52.00, presuming no make-up oil. (And, it isn't about the $9.75 -- I've flushed contaminents 2 1/2 times as often by changing oil and filters at 3,000 miles.) Europeans have a different mind set. We owe much to their hard work ethic because they figured prominently in the settling of the Americas since the dawn of the 18th century. However, the ones who remained behind embroiled the planet in two world wars, and were darned near responsible for a third one in the mid-50s. I see no compelling reason to slavishly follow their example in other areas.
FWIW, my dealer threw in 10 "free" oil changes. They change the oil every 3K with dino oil(10w30 Castrol). Hence the first change was at 3k.
Mobil-1 5W30 or 10W30 at 5000-6000 mile OCI will work just fine. If you use dino in this engine it would be best to change it out at 3000 mile intervals. I would do a couple of UOA after it has 20,000 mile on it to see how your OCI and oil are doing. I do not think that the 3.3 has any problems at all. The 3.0V6 that had the sludgeing issues for a few years is no longer used in the Camry.
If you decide to use dino some of the better buys are Havoline 10W30, Chevron Supreme 10W30, and Delo 400 10W30. If you can get the Delo 10W30 get it!! It is CI-4 rated so it will do a better job keeping your rings clean.
If you go synthetic you can go mild like M1 5W30 to exotic like Redline 5W30 and not have any issues. We do not have any UOA on this new 3.3 so it is hard to say if it is going to be a 5000 mile OCI or if it can handle 10,000 mile OCI at this point even with synthetics!
Most of the newer Toyota V engines that we have see UOA on this site have been doing best with synthetic 5W30. THe reason for the dino 10W30 is because it is going to shear done after 1500 miles any way so you might as well get a 10W30 to start with.
[ June 30, 2004, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]
If you decide to use dino some of the better buys are Havoline 10W30, Chevron Supreme 10W30, and Delo 400 10W30. If you can get the Delo 10W30 get it!! It is CI-4 rated so it will do a better job keeping your rings clean.
If you go synthetic you can go mild like M1 5W30 to exotic like Redline 5W30 and not have any issues. We do not have any UOA on this new 3.3 so it is hard to say if it is going to be a 5000 mile OCI or if it can handle 10,000 mile OCI at this point even with synthetics!
Most of the newer Toyota V engines that we have see UOA on this site have been doing best with synthetic 5W30. THe reason for the dino 10W30 is because it is going to shear done after 1500 miles any way so you might as well get a 10W30 to start with.
[ June 30, 2004, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]
First off:
While the 3.0L engine-family sludge issue has been tamed, that doesn't mean these engines still aren't hard on oil. I suggest changing the oil at 1K, then 3K to remove break-in contaminents. Then every 5K thereafter if using a good synthetic oil such as Mobil1 or Castrol 0w-30 German-made Syntec. However, I wouldn't push this engine design beyond 3K oil changes if you choose to use regular ol' dino oil.
Congrats on your new car!
While the 3.0L engine-family sludge issue has been tamed, that doesn't mean these engines still aren't hard on oil. I suggest changing the oil at 1K, then 3K to remove break-in contaminents. Then every 5K thereafter if using a good synthetic oil such as Mobil1 or Castrol 0w-30 German-made Syntec. However, I wouldn't push this engine design beyond 3K oil changes if you choose to use regular ol' dino oil.
Congrats on your new car!
Congratulations on your new car!
As far as the oil change is concerned, you'll get mixed answers. Some, including me have dumped their oil as soon as we got the new car home. The reason for doing so is to prevent whatever dirt or any metal shavings that is in the oil from circulating inside the new engine. It wouldn't hurt to do so. A few others may say to leave the break-in oil in the engine and dump it after say 1,000 miles. You can go 5,000 miles in between oil changes provided you use a good synthetic oil and a good filter. If you're not planning to use synthetic oil you should do 3,000 mile changes. Good luck!
Kiko
Kiko
My error. So excited about getting a new car. Its a 2004 Camry. Sorry for the mistake.
So BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Corvette are all playing "beat the clock?" I don't think so.
[ July 01, 2004, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: dropitby ]
Dropitby, you said that your Camry likes Amsoil 10/30. I'm curious why you said that, does your Camry get better gas mileage, have higher oil pressure, or what?
I'm interested because I also have a Camry and I am always interested in helping it run better and last longer.
Thanks.
I'm interested because I also have a Camry and I am always interested in helping it run better and last longer.
Thanks.
I have a 14 month old 2003.5 V-6 Camry with almost 40,000 miles on it (yes, those numbers are correct...). I've experimented with several different oils including Mobil-1 0w, 5w, and 10w-30, Amsoil ASL 5w-30, Royal Purple 10w-30, and German Castrol 0w-30. So far, I've got the best mileage and smoothest operation from the Amsoil 5w-30. I've just tuned in to the UOA thing, and will be sampling the present GC, which is approaching 5k miles, this weekend. Jury is still out for me, although I suspect I'll be settling on GC or the Amsoil. We'll see after some UOAs which "wins" for my car.quote:
Originally posted by TC1:
Dropitby, you said that your Camry likes Amsoil 10/30. I'm curious why you said that, does your Camry get better gas mileage, have higher oil pressure, or what?
I'm interested because I also have a Camry and I am always interested in helping it run better and last longer.
Thanks.
Searched this thread high and low for a reference to European cars, oil, weather, ANYTHING but couldn't find a one.
I...have...no...idea what that comment means...please explain...brain...hurts...
I actually liked the "European comment" but I don't remember a "mid-50s" crisis type thing. Heard about the '49 blockade of Berlin, lived through the '63 Cuban/Russian thing, Korean War ended '51, '52 (?), but am curious about the mid-50s. Uh, Sputnik '57?
Maybe this is tied to the new Amsoil "European" 5W-40. If so, OK, Filthy Euro's... (Amsoil's "American" 10W-30 is good enough for me!).
Maybe this is tied to the new Amsoil "European" 5W-40. If so, OK, Filthy Euro's... (Amsoil's "American" 10W-30 is good enough for me!).
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