I'm planning to do a brake job on the 4Runner next weekend and the hardest part for me is to choose brake shoes. What is the difference between new and relined brake pads? Are relined brake pads used brake pads with some of the surface meterial removed?
New brake shoes vs. relined.
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No, relined means that they took an old shoe back as core, and put new friction material on it, relining it.
New means new aftermarket..
New means new aftermarket..
Kestas
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They clean the old shoes (probably by shot peening or tumbling) and reline the wear surface. They can be relined either by riveting or gluing. I believe gluing is better for corrosive applications, since riveting would leave a crevice where corrosion could start between pad and backing.
Are you going to do the front or rear? I guess I'm stuck with the old nomenclature of pads being for disc brakes and shoes being for drums.
Anyway, when it comes to brake pad design I always go with new rivoted pads for the fronts. I've seen relined sets fail prematurely more than new aftermarket pads.
With the glued on material, I would avoid it. I've see that get brittle and crack. The brake material then fell off. This can happen with rivoted brake pads too, but a good shot of water with a garden hose every couple of weeks goes a long way.
I've had good luck with Wagner and Raybestos brake pads. Replacing the rotors might be a good option as well. If you don't, you might end up with a wicked pulsation.
Anyway, when it comes to brake pad design I always go with new rivoted pads for the fronts. I've seen relined sets fail prematurely more than new aftermarket pads.
With the glued on material, I would avoid it. I've see that get brittle and crack. The brake material then fell off. This can happen with rivoted brake pads too, but a good shot of water with a garden hose every couple of weeks goes a long way.
I've had good luck with Wagner and Raybestos brake pads. Replacing the rotors might be a good option as well. If you don't, you might end up with a wicked pulsation.
Originally Posted By: Nyquist
Are you going to do the front or rear? I guess I'm stuck with the old nomenclature of pads being for disc brakes and shoes being for drums.
Anyway, when it comes to brake pad design I always go with new rivoted pads for the fronts. I've seen relined sets fail prematurely more than new aftermarket pads.
With the glued on material, I would avoid it. I've see that get brittle and crack. The brake material then fell off. This can happen with rivoted brake pads too, but a good shot of water with a garden hose every couple of weeks goes a long way.
I've had good luck with Wagner and Raybestos brake pads. Replacing the rotors might be a good option as well. If you don't, you might end up with a wicked pulsation.
This is for the rear.
Are you going to do the front or rear? I guess I'm stuck with the old nomenclature of pads being for disc brakes and shoes being for drums.
Anyway, when it comes to brake pad design I always go with new rivoted pads for the fronts. I've seen relined sets fail prematurely more than new aftermarket pads.
With the glued on material, I would avoid it. I've see that get brittle and crack. The brake material then fell off. This can happen with rivoted brake pads too, but a good shot of water with a garden hose every couple of weeks goes a long way.
I've had good luck with Wagner and Raybestos brake pads. Replacing the rotors might be a good option as well. If you don't, you might end up with a wicked pulsation.
This is for the rear.
If you can find new brake shoes with rivets that would be the way to go. Relined shoes are OK, new is ususally always better. They cost more, and are harder to find "new shoes" for the rear. Most parts stores usually carry relined brake shoes (rear), and new pads for the front. Bonded or glued on shoes aren't as good as the ones that have the rivets. Sometimes they are only offered as bonded shoes.
HTH
Frank D
HTH
Frank D
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Modern glued pads/shoes are better than riveted. Better adhesion, conformity when hot, and heat transfer, and more pad life before hitting any metal rivets.
Of course if you get the cheapest type of anything, be prepared for so-so results.
For the many years of projected use, and the importance of the parts involved, get premium parts. What's $5-20 bucks over several years?
Of course if you get the cheapest type of anything, be prepared for so-so results.
For the many years of projected use, and the importance of the parts involved, get premium parts. What's $5-20 bucks over several years?
Kestas
Staff member
I buy the cheapest pads with no lifetime guarantee because I don't want agressive pads that wear the rotor. Is my thinking sound?.
Kestas - That is good common sense, but it doesn't work that way.
Premium pads are best, and have advantages of long life and braking power. Rotor wear is actually better with good pads.
When this was explained to me at a Bendix Brake Seminar, it elicited groans and "Oh, c'mons" from the audience of mechanics, but the instructor was correct.
Premium pads are best, and have advantages of long life and braking power. Rotor wear is actually better with good pads.
When this was explained to me at a Bendix Brake Seminar, it elicited groans and "Oh, c'mons" from the audience of mechanics, but the instructor was correct.
Yes, cheap pads (like Albany- AZ no longer sells them) would eat the rotors like crazy, and dust like heck.
Premium pads are the way to go!
Premium pads are the way to go!
Ceramic pads....but does not need to be the most expensive ceramic pads.
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
BTW, how long (miles) do drum brakes last before they need to be changed ?
That depends on how you drive. Usually the rule of thumb is after 2 sets of front brakes the rears are due. The rear drum brakes on my Jeep were getting thin so I replaced them A 95K.
BTW, how long (miles) do drum brakes last before they need to be changed ?
That depends on how you drive. Usually the rule of thumb is after 2 sets of front brakes the rears are due. The rear drum brakes on my Jeep were getting thin so I replaced them A 95K.
Whichever you choose, go over them first.
They all seem to be hastily assembled. Each shoe is slightly off on the steel frame, if you look. And the material itself is often rough. If so, I lightly sand them by hand, and clean them off.
And the steel frame where it seats/rides on the pads where it slides should be deburred, as well as the rocker type ends. Of course grease those pad area, also.
They all seem to be hastily assembled. Each shoe is slightly off on the steel frame, if you look. And the material itself is often rough. If so, I lightly sand them by hand, and clean them off.
And the steel frame where it seats/rides on the pads where it slides should be deburred, as well as the rocker type ends. Of course grease those pad area, also.
I have used the cheap pads and they seemed to do fine,no damage to the rotors.I think that the only real difference between the premium and the cheap pads/shoes sometimes if not most of the time,is how much lining is applied to the actual pad/shoe and not what the lining is made of.This may not apply to all pads/shoes but most are semi-metallic these days and it would be easier for a company to use less lining than to have several different types of lining for each grade of brake pad/shoe.
I think that many times,the price that is paid is not so much for the material used but for the amount of lining and the length of the warranty.
Dont get me wrong,there are ceramic and other specialty materials used but for the basic simi-metallic pads/shoes,there is probably little if any difference in material.
I think that many times,the price that is paid is not so much for the material used but for the amount of lining and the length of the warranty.
Dont get me wrong,there are ceramic and other specialty materials used but for the basic simi-metallic pads/shoes,there is probably little if any difference in material.
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