Neo 0w-5 is truly a 5wt.

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cvl

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I know that a lot of people have suspected this oil of being a 20, 25 or even a 30wt, but it's not. It's viscosity at 100C is 3.8, so it's a thin 5.
 
LOL the stuff is so thin that in NOAK conditions, its a bloody gas
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Just the stuff to use in high engine temps
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"High performance sewing machines? " I agree. If you sew outside on cold mornings, this should help protect your sewing machine from cold starts!
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This is what I hate about Neo and Redline both--their "creative" names for their oils that seem like SAE designations but aren't. And since they aren't SAE designations, they're meaningless.

As far as NEO goes, if they aren't going to tell me, in print, something as fundamental as kinematic viscosity I can bypass their oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by mikemc:
"High performance sewing machines? " I agree. If you sew outside on cold mornings, this should help protect your sewing machine from cold starts!
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Holy crap is that funny!
 
Someone might say that "SAE" is meaningless because of the broad range of oils that fall into 'ONE' specific weight category. J300 is annoying because it has too much tolerance and uses <> too frequently. Tighten the specs and allow more in-between weights for crying out loud.

Concerning Neo/Synergen and other superlightweight oils, it all depends on the usage. For short times(dragrace) or when temperature is kept cool (at a low level with a huge cooler), than you'll never see that 100c.

5w20s got a bad rap. The UOAs have already proven it good.
ATF is thin(especially after several thousand miles) and you don't see transmission gears/bearings/shafts/TCs spilling all over the place. ATF is one fluid which is improved by simply adding a transmission cooler.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Brett Miller:
Why don't you run it Patman???

Cuz I've got more than enough GC to last me a while!
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Plus I'm not that brave, neither of my cars would work well with a thin oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Brett Miller:
The Honda might.

I'm not so sure about that. My wife drives it pretty agressively, and it showed relatively high lead levels with Royal Purple 5w30, which for all intents and purposes was 5w20 in her engine (first interval it finished at 8.8cst, second it finished up at 9.5) So I think her engine/driving style dictates an 11-12cst oil for better bearing protection.

Her Honda is a 2000 model, which is the last year of the 1.6L engine, and the last year to specify 5w30 (no mention of 5w20 in her manual whatsoever)
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
When is someone going to get brave and run this oil and do a UOA?

I got the Cha-changa,
send me the oil, and the money or the bottles to do the tests, pre-paid naturally, and I'll run it for the group... Even when it's slow, I still put on 900-1300 miles a week... it should be no time before we have results.
 
I was actually going to try this oil in a race bike in the early 90's (factory RS600 long rod). Neo claimed a 20% or 20 degree (can't remember now) tempurature drop at the head with this oil in road race inline fours. The only reason I didn't try it was that I had a hairline crack in the camchain tunnel that seeped oil using 30wt and I was sure that this stuff would pour out the crack. After I rebuilt the engine with a new cylinder, I was going to try it after break in but quit racing and sold my stuff before I got around to it. I have the gallon that I bought then, around 1994, and would be willing to donate it to the cause if someone wants to run it.

FWIW, I ran alot of different NEO oil and always had good luck with it. They were always very forthcoming with me about their product, although I didn't ask the questions that I would ask now after hanging around here.

Cheers,
Dana

[ December 20, 2003, 07:40 PM: Message edited by: dwmcneil ]
 
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