Originally Posted By: nicholas
Before and after the cold weather I always perform a water combustion chamber cleaning
Please explain.
Before and after the cold weather I always perform a water combustion chamber cleaning
Please explain.
Need Specific Oil - Nissan Versa w/Noisy Lifters
- Thread starter AdmiralYoda
- Start date
- Status
Nowadays people squirt chemicals into their vacuum system to decarbonize the valves and combustion chamber. Half (or probably more) of the decarbonizing action is due to thermal shock.
Using water is an old school trick that was done in the past. The cold water (relative to the engine) hits the valves, flashes to steam and atomizes and knocks the carbon off.
Maybe not as completely effective as a chemical version but its free, and if done often enough probably just as effective.
Using water is an old school trick that was done in the past. The cold water (relative to the engine) hits the valves, flashes to steam and atomizes and knocks the carbon off.
Maybe not as completely effective as a chemical version but its free, and if done often enough probably just as effective.
"seafoaming" is a cool thing to do on youtube more than anything beneficial. As a matter of fact, blasting the engine with mostly Pale Oil (lubricant, the white smoke on the videos..carbon is nearly invisible) may make it tick more than it does now. It did on my BMW thats for sure. Stick with steady doses of PEA techron concentrate plus. Much more effective over time.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
"seafoaming" is a cool thing to do on youtube more than anything beneficial. As a matter of fact, blasting the engine with mostly Pale Oil (lubricant, the white smoke on the videos..carbon is nearly invisible) may make it tick more than it does now. It did on my BMW thats for sure. Stick with steady doses of PEA techron concentrate plus. Much more effective over time.
Even though I was planning to do this, mostly out of habit on older vehicles.....I am going to have to agree with you.
I think most of the smoke comes from the carbon soaking up the detergents during the "let it sit" period. Then burning off once the engine is fired back up.
It is a potentially harsh treatment. Considering how expensive modern engines are to repair/replace I'm cautious against using it on my wife's Versa. We are hoping to drive it for another 100k miles.
If it were my old 92' Jeep Cherokee, 81' Camaro, or 80' Chevy pickup I didn't hesitate because it did help and I could rebuild an engine for cheap with my eyes close. With the Versa....I'm just gonna put Techron in it for the next few tanks.
"seafoaming" is a cool thing to do on youtube more than anything beneficial. As a matter of fact, blasting the engine with mostly Pale Oil (lubricant, the white smoke on the videos..carbon is nearly invisible) may make it tick more than it does now. It did on my BMW thats for sure. Stick with steady doses of PEA techron concentrate plus. Much more effective over time.
Even though I was planning to do this, mostly out of habit on older vehicles.....I am going to have to agree with you.
I think most of the smoke comes from the carbon soaking up the detergents during the "let it sit" period. Then burning off once the engine is fired back up.
It is a potentially harsh treatment. Considering how expensive modern engines are to repair/replace I'm cautious against using it on my wife's Versa. We are hoping to drive it for another 100k miles.
If it were my old 92' Jeep Cherokee, 81' Camaro, or 80' Chevy pickup I didn't hesitate because it did help and I could rebuild an engine for cheap with my eyes close. With the Versa....I'm just gonna put Techron in it for the next few tanks.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Add Rotella T6 5w40.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=134913&Number=1939470
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=158546&Number=2330040
Off your list I have used M1 HM and Redline. The T6 was quieter (IMO) than both.
+1 on the T6
Add Rotella T6 5w40.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=134913&Number=1939470
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=158546&Number=2330040
Off your list I have used M1 HM and Redline. The T6 was quieter (IMO) than both.
+1 on the T6
...but I've steered the ship off course a bit.
Back to the oil.
- I like Rotella's T6 additive package, but think it is too low in Moly.
- I like(love) Redline's addtive package, but am cautious of the OCI and to a certain extent the price. $13/qt after shipping.
Someone convince me what to do!
Back to the oil.
- I like Rotella's T6 additive package, but think it is too low in Moly.
- I like(love) Redline's addtive package, but am cautious of the OCI and to a certain extent the price. $13/qt after shipping.
Someone convince me what to do!
Originally Posted By: AdmiralYoda
First.....thanks everyone for all the replies!
To answer some questions:
For the 1st 50k miles I used M1-EP, Castrol-Edge, or Valvoline Synpower 5w-30 at 5000-7500 mile intervals. I would either use a M1 or PureOne filter. From 50k to now (105k) it has been the Nissan OEM 5w-30 and filter.
Clevy....you said:
"Red line oils tend to run on the thick side of the grade. In a gas engine rotella and red line aren't even playing the same game". Can you clarify? Do you mean that one is way better than the other?
Can anyone comment on the Amsoil HDD 5w-30 diesel oil? Seems to be pretty stout.
Red line lubricants are all group 5 ester base stocks. Which is as good as it gets. They are formulated to be very stout and in my opinion just about as good as it gets as far as engine oils go.
For most people their driving habits will never need an oil as good as red line,some applications can benefit though such as in racing applications and any application where you need the best possible protection.
Rotella is good oil however its a group 3 base stock and has been watered down to qualify for dpf exhaust systems.
Rotella is more stout than most of us will ever need as well however I think red line is the top shelf of oils. Superior base stocks,extremely stout additive package. It's as good as oil gets,and more than 99% of engines will ever need.
And it's expensive. 22 bucks a quart here. I can get a jug of pp or qsud at Walmart on sale for roughly the same price as a single quart of red line.
But if cost wasn't an issue I would use red line products exclusively.
I can't help you on the Amsoil hdd. I have no experience with it.
First.....thanks everyone for all the replies!
To answer some questions:
For the 1st 50k miles I used M1-EP, Castrol-Edge, or Valvoline Synpower 5w-30 at 5000-7500 mile intervals. I would either use a M1 or PureOne filter. From 50k to now (105k) it has been the Nissan OEM 5w-30 and filter.
Clevy....you said:
"Red line oils tend to run on the thick side of the grade. In a gas engine rotella and red line aren't even playing the same game". Can you clarify? Do you mean that one is way better than the other?
Can anyone comment on the Amsoil HDD 5w-30 diesel oil? Seems to be pretty stout.
Red line lubricants are all group 5 ester base stocks. Which is as good as it gets. They are formulated to be very stout and in my opinion just about as good as it gets as far as engine oils go.
For most people their driving habits will never need an oil as good as red line,some applications can benefit though such as in racing applications and any application where you need the best possible protection.
Rotella is good oil however its a group 3 base stock and has been watered down to qualify for dpf exhaust systems.
Rotella is more stout than most of us will ever need as well however I think red line is the top shelf of oils. Superior base stocks,extremely stout additive package. It's as good as oil gets,and more than 99% of engines will ever need.
And it's expensive. 22 bucks a quart here. I can get a jug of pp or qsud at Walmart on sale for roughly the same price as a single quart of red line.
But if cost wasn't an issue I would use red line products exclusively.
I can't help you on the Amsoil hdd. I have no experience with it.
Originally Posted By: AdmiralYoda
...but I've steered the ship off course a bit.
Back to the oil.
- I like Rotella's T6 additive package, but think it is too low in Moly.
- I like(love) Redline's addtive package, but am cautious of the OCI and to a certain extent the price. $13/qt after shipping.
Someone convince me what to do!
Rotella is supposed to be low in moly. Diesel engines don't like too much of it.
If you like rotella then just buy a moly additive. Liqui-moly makes an oil additive called MOS2. I use it sometimes. Every time I use it I see a fuel economy increase. It cheap and it works.
But I'd still go with red line over the t-6 and use no additives at all. It's great oil. If longevity is a concern try doing a uoa to verify condition at 5000 miles and go from there. Just to be sure.
...but I've steered the ship off course a bit.
Back to the oil.
- I like Rotella's T6 additive package, but think it is too low in Moly.
- I like(love) Redline's addtive package, but am cautious of the OCI and to a certain extent the price. $13/qt after shipping.
Someone convince me what to do!
Rotella is supposed to be low in moly. Diesel engines don't like too much of it.
If you like rotella then just buy a moly additive. Liqui-moly makes an oil additive called MOS2. I use it sometimes. Every time I use it I see a fuel economy increase. It cheap and it works.
But I'd still go with red line over the t-6 and use no additives at all. It's great oil. If longevity is a concern try doing a uoa to verify condition at 5000 miles and go from there. Just to be sure.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Red line lubricants are all group 5 ester base stocks. Which is as good as it gets. They are formulated to be very stout and in my opinion just about as good as it gets as far as engine oils go.
For most people their driving habits will never need an oil as good as red line,some applications can benefit though such as in racing applications and any application where you need the best possible protection.
Rotella is good oil however its a group 3 base stock and has been watered down to qualify for dpf exhaust systems.
Rotella is more stout than most of us will ever need as well however I think red line is the top shelf of oils. Superior base stocks,extremely stout additive package. It's as good as oil gets,and more than 99% of engines will ever need.
And it's expensive. 22 bucks a quart here. I can get a jug of pp or qsud at Walmart on sale for roughly the same price as a single quart of red line.
But if cost wasn't an issue I would use red line products exclusively.
I can't help you on the Amsoil hdd. I have no experience with it.
Thank you for clarifying that to me. I suppose, aside from just wanting a good oil....I am experimenting.
My wife has OEM Nissan conventional oil and is coming up on an oil change. Her engine is noisy. The winter is making the noise worse. I suppose I am wanting to try an oil that is considered the best in quieting engines to see how dramatic of a difference it would make.
Of course, a noisy valvetrain is a mechanical issue but high quality oils have been known to improve such things. Using a slightly thicker oil is known to improve this also.
So, knowing what I've learned from this thread, I'm wondering if Redline has the potential to make her engine quieter and smoother than Rotella T6. LeakySeals said from his experience Rotella T6 was quieter than RedLine. But I wonder if that is engine dependent or not.
On paper Redline looks like complete overkill and should blow the doors off anything. I have a PhD in overkill so that's why its so appealing to me.
Maybe Rotella T6 with Lubro-Moly MO2?!?!?!
EDIT ****I don't type fast enough!
Red line lubricants are all group 5 ester base stocks. Which is as good as it gets. They are formulated to be very stout and in my opinion just about as good as it gets as far as engine oils go.
For most people their driving habits will never need an oil as good as red line,some applications can benefit though such as in racing applications and any application where you need the best possible protection.
Rotella is good oil however its a group 3 base stock and has been watered down to qualify for dpf exhaust systems.
Rotella is more stout than most of us will ever need as well however I think red line is the top shelf of oils. Superior base stocks,extremely stout additive package. It's as good as oil gets,and more than 99% of engines will ever need.
And it's expensive. 22 bucks a quart here. I can get a jug of pp or qsud at Walmart on sale for roughly the same price as a single quart of red line.
But if cost wasn't an issue I would use red line products exclusively.
I can't help you on the Amsoil hdd. I have no experience with it.
Thank you for clarifying that to me. I suppose, aside from just wanting a good oil....I am experimenting.
My wife has OEM Nissan conventional oil and is coming up on an oil change. Her engine is noisy. The winter is making the noise worse. I suppose I am wanting to try an oil that is considered the best in quieting engines to see how dramatic of a difference it would make.
Of course, a noisy valvetrain is a mechanical issue but high quality oils have been known to improve such things. Using a slightly thicker oil is known to improve this also.
So, knowing what I've learned from this thread, I'm wondering if Redline has the potential to make her engine quieter and smoother than Rotella T6. LeakySeals said from his experience Rotella T6 was quieter than RedLine. But I wonder if that is engine dependent or not.
On paper Redline looks like complete overkill and should blow the doors off anything. I have a PhD in overkill so that's why its so appealing to me.
Maybe Rotella T6 with Lubro-Moly MO2?!?!?!
EDIT ****I don't type fast enough!
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Rotella is supposed to be low in moly. Diesel engines don't like too much of it.
If you like rotella then just buy a moly additive. Liqui-moly makes an oil additive called MOS2. I use it sometimes. Every time I use it I see a fuel economy increase. It cheap and it works.
But I'd still go with red line over the t-6 and use no additives at all.
Well...I can't say that I like Rotella or Moly. I like the idea behind the two but I've never used either. Up until now I figured a good oil was a good oil, and thanks to this site I've learned that there is a big difference between formulations. I keep reading about people using moly and quieting engines, or getting better fuel economy. So that is the only reason I think I need more moly.
Since RedLine runs a bit on the thick side, and I could probably use a thicker oil since I've got valvetrain noise and 100k on the clock.....should I use Redline's 0w-30/5w-30 or 0w-40/5w-40? OEM is 5w-30.
Or the Rotella T6 w/ Moly....uggghhh.
Rotella is supposed to be low in moly. Diesel engines don't like too much of it.
If you like rotella then just buy a moly additive. Liqui-moly makes an oil additive called MOS2. I use it sometimes. Every time I use it I see a fuel economy increase. It cheap and it works.
But I'd still go with red line over the t-6 and use no additives at all.
Well...I can't say that I like Rotella or Moly. I like the idea behind the two but I've never used either. Up until now I figured a good oil was a good oil, and thanks to this site I've learned that there is a big difference between formulations. I keep reading about people using moly and quieting engines, or getting better fuel economy. So that is the only reason I think I need more moly.
Since RedLine runs a bit on the thick side, and I could probably use a thicker oil since I've got valvetrain noise and 100k on the clock.....should I use Redline's 0w-30/5w-30 or 0w-40/5w-40? OEM is 5w-30.
Or the Rotella T6 w/ Moly....uggghhh.
Try the T6. I certainly wouln't try $12 qt Redline in a Nissan economy car with a 100K on it. Seems silly to me, especially knowing that the noise is an aspect of the engine design (shim & bucket).
I've done a few oil changes on that motor. They are noisy...I switched it to 10w-30...better now but still present.
Try some moly now before the next oil change and see if it makes an immediate difference. According to Clevy "It cheap and it works."
Originally Posted By: Danno
Try some moly now before the next oil change and see if it makes an immediate difference. According to Clevy "It cheap and it works."
Thats it.....I'm going with the T6 and I'm gonna put some moly into it. The Redline sounds awesome but is just too darn expensive. The T6 additives sound close to perfect anyways except for the missing moly.
Now on the Lubro Moly MO2 stuff.... I've never used it...how much are you supposed to use? Her sump holds 4.25qts including the filter.
Do you use it every oil change? Every other? She has 600 miles left until I change the oil. Should I put it now and then again when I change the oil in 600 miles?
Thanks!
Try some moly now before the next oil change and see if it makes an immediate difference. According to Clevy "It cheap and it works."
Thats it.....I'm going with the T6 and I'm gonna put some moly into it. The Redline sounds awesome but is just too darn expensive. The T6 additives sound close to perfect anyways except for the missing moly.
Now on the Lubro Moly MO2 stuff.... I've never used it...how much are you supposed to use? Her sump holds 4.25qts including the filter.
Do you use it every oil change? Every other? She has 600 miles left until I change the oil. Should I put it now and then again when I change the oil in 600 miles?
Thanks!
Originally Posted By: AdmiralYoda
Originally Posted By: Danno
Try some moly now before the next oil change and see if it makes an immediate difference. According to Clevy "It cheap and it works."
Thats it.....I'm going with the T6 and I'm gonna put some moly into it. The Redline sounds awesome but is just too darn expensive. The T6 additives sound close to perfect anyways except for the missing moly.
Now on the Lubro Moly MO2 stuff.... I've never used it...how much are you supposed to use? Her sump holds 4.25qts including the filter.
Do you use it every oil change? Every other? She has 600 miles left until I change the oil. Should I put it now and then again when I change the oil in 600 miles?
Thanks!
My understanding on how it works is you add it to the oil. Over a period of a few hundred kms/miles the moly works itself into the uneven surface of the metal,creating an ultra smooth surface and a sacrificial wear layer at start up. This process is called plating. Once the engines wear surfaces are plated you don't need as much to maintain this layer.
I have always used a full can,then half a can at each oil change.
The results are not immediate. It takes heat and pressure and the cooling cycle to complete the process. I noticed fuel mileage improving about midway through my second tank after adding it to the oil.
It's inexpensive and convenient. I've had less fuel consumption in every engine I've ever used it in. I really noticed in my air compressors at work. You could set your watch by how they consumed fuel. Thank would last 5-6 hours consistently. 3 days after adding this stuff to the oil on my test mule it ran over 7 hours. Next day it was 7.5. Now they hold steady at 8 hours. I've got 12 of them. 5.5 hp Honda gsx 160cc motors. I've been using these motors on various pumps whether they were inline twins or v-twin pumps for 22 years. They haven't changed at all in that time. Always consistent with fuel use.
It can't hurt to try it out. Worst case scenario is you go with red line next time,right. So why not experiment a bit?
Originally Posted By: Danno
Try some moly now before the next oil change and see if it makes an immediate difference. According to Clevy "It cheap and it works."
Thats it.....I'm going with the T6 and I'm gonna put some moly into it. The Redline sounds awesome but is just too darn expensive. The T6 additives sound close to perfect anyways except for the missing moly.
Now on the Lubro Moly MO2 stuff.... I've never used it...how much are you supposed to use? Her sump holds 4.25qts including the filter.
Do you use it every oil change? Every other? She has 600 miles left until I change the oil. Should I put it now and then again when I change the oil in 600 miles?
Thanks!
My understanding on how it works is you add it to the oil. Over a period of a few hundred kms/miles the moly works itself into the uneven surface of the metal,creating an ultra smooth surface and a sacrificial wear layer at start up. This process is called plating. Once the engines wear surfaces are plated you don't need as much to maintain this layer.
I have always used a full can,then half a can at each oil change.
The results are not immediate. It takes heat and pressure and the cooling cycle to complete the process. I noticed fuel mileage improving about midway through my second tank after adding it to the oil.
It's inexpensive and convenient. I've had less fuel consumption in every engine I've ever used it in. I really noticed in my air compressors at work. You could set your watch by how they consumed fuel. Thank would last 5-6 hours consistently. 3 days after adding this stuff to the oil on my test mule it ran over 7 hours. Next day it was 7.5. Now they hold steady at 8 hours. I've got 12 of them. 5.5 hp Honda gsx 160cc motors. I've been using these motors on various pumps whether they were inline twins or v-twin pumps for 22 years. They haven't changed at all in that time. Always consistent with fuel use.
It can't hurt to try it out. Worst case scenario is you go with red line next time,right. So why not experiment a bit?
I plan on picking up some moly this afternoon. By Sunday afternoon we should put about 120 miles on it....hopefully enough to make a difference.
But since I'm doing an oil change in 600-700 miles...should I put a can in now, and then another in when I do the oil change? Or a whole can now and then a half a can at that oil change?
But since I'm doing an oil change in 600-700 miles...should I put a can in now, and then another in when I do the oil change? Or a whole can now and then a half a can at that oil change?
Cans of snake oil won't help, but using a thicker oil might. Redline has a very high Moly content already, so if you add more at best it won't work and at worst it will interefere with one of the other additives included in the oil.
The EP additive that helps reduce lifter wear in some engines is Zinc not Moly, so a major brand HM oil would make more sense as they are fairly high in Zinc, although Redline also has enough Zinc.
The EP additive that helps reduce lifter wear in some engines is Zinc not Moly, so a major brand HM oil would make more sense as they are fairly high in Zinc, although Redline also has enough Zinc.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: skyship
Cans of snake oil won't help, but using a thicker oil might. Redline has a very high Moly content already, so if you add more at best it won't work and at worst it will interefere with one of the other additives included in the oil.
The EP additive that helps reduce lifter wear in some engines is Zinc not Moly, so a major brand HM oil would make more sense as they are fairly high in Zinc, although Redline also has enough Zinc.
Although the typical HM oils have higher than average zinc (900-1000ish), the Redline oils have more zinc than those. VOA show 1100-1500ppm.
I plan on using Rotella T6 which has about 1264ppm zinc according to some VOA's. The one thing it is lacking is moly which many believe is very beneficial to the lubricity of an engine.
The only reason for adding the Lubro MOS2 to the Rotella T6 was to add the moly that the Redline oils already would have had. So how is that bad?
Cans of snake oil won't help, but using a thicker oil might. Redline has a very high Moly content already, so if you add more at best it won't work and at worst it will interefere with one of the other additives included in the oil.
The EP additive that helps reduce lifter wear in some engines is Zinc not Moly, so a major brand HM oil would make more sense as they are fairly high in Zinc, although Redline also has enough Zinc.
Although the typical HM oils have higher than average zinc (900-1000ish), the Redline oils have more zinc than those. VOA show 1100-1500ppm.
I plan on using Rotella T6 which has about 1264ppm zinc according to some VOA's. The one thing it is lacking is moly which many believe is very beneficial to the lubricity of an engine.
The only reason for adding the Lubro MOS2 to the Rotella T6 was to add the moly that the Redline oils already would have had. So how is that bad?
Clevy - what's your Cdn retailer for the moly?
Originally Posted By: AdmiralYoda
Originally Posted By: skyship
Cans of snake oil won't help, but using a thicker oil might. Redline has a very high Moly content already, so if you add more at best it won't work and at worst it will interefere with one of the other additives included in the oil.
The EP additive that helps reduce lifter wear in some engines is Zinc not Moly, so a major brand HM oil would make more sense as they are fairly high in Zinc, although Redline also has enough Zinc.
Although the typical HM oils have higher than average zinc (900-1000ish), the Redline oils have more zinc than those. VOA show 1100-1500ppm.
I plan on using Rotella T6 which has about 1264ppm zinc according to some VOA's. The one thing it is lacking is moly which many believe is very beneficial to the lubricity of an engine.
The only reason for adding the Lubro MOS2 to the Rotella T6 was to add the moly that the Redline oils already would have had. So how is that bad?
I think you should test your theory. Dump naked T6 in and drive 500-1k miles. If the engine has not quieted down substantially during that time then buy a moly additive. That way you know which one worked, which one didnt. If the naked T6 worked I just saved you money.
Originally Posted By: skyship
Cans of snake oil won't help, but using a thicker oil might. Redline has a very high Moly content already, so if you add more at best it won't work and at worst it will interefere with one of the other additives included in the oil.
The EP additive that helps reduce lifter wear in some engines is Zinc not Moly, so a major brand HM oil would make more sense as they are fairly high in Zinc, although Redline also has enough Zinc.
Although the typical HM oils have higher than average zinc (900-1000ish), the Redline oils have more zinc than those. VOA show 1100-1500ppm.
I plan on using Rotella T6 which has about 1264ppm zinc according to some VOA's. The one thing it is lacking is moly which many believe is very beneficial to the lubricity of an engine.
The only reason for adding the Lubro MOS2 to the Rotella T6 was to add the moly that the Redline oils already would have had. So how is that bad?
I think you should test your theory. Dump naked T6 in and drive 500-1k miles. If the engine has not quieted down substantially during that time then buy a moly additive. That way you know which one worked, which one didnt. If the naked T6 worked I just saved you money.
- Status
Similar threads
