T6 for a WRX. All my Subaru's have always drank M1... I dont know why, but T6 is rock solid.
Need oil suggestion for high mileage 2003 WRX
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I've had no issues with PU 10w30, Edge 0w40, M1 0w40, TDT 5w40 or SynPower 5w-40. Honestly, and I'm not a Mobil fan, but the M1 0w40 'sounds' best in my engine. :-/
I also like the M1 0w40 and 10w40 HM suggestion. I might even slip some LubroMoly Motor Oil Saver in the 0w40.
I managed to score some PP 5w40 at $2 a quart late last year, so that will be waiting in the stash.
I also like the M1 0w40 and 10w40 HM suggestion. I might even slip some LubroMoly Motor Oil Saver in the 0w40.
I managed to score some PP 5w40 at $2 a quart late last year, so that will be waiting in the stash.
As a fellow resident of a Northern state, I would suggest that the OPer resist the 10WXX suggestions unless his car is always going to be in a garage overnight. Even with whatever 5W30 the Subaru dealer put in my car, my FXT shuddered like crazy on really cold starts...it was much better with M1 and QSUD 5W30.
My Subaru has never drank any oil, but my miles are pretty low and I have a different engine than the OPer (2.0l instead of 2.5l turbo). Even so, I have shelled out some coin for M1 5W30 ESP to try something more robust than regular M1 on my next change. I can't really recommend it due to the price, I just wanted to stick with 5W30 for now due to warranty concerns and I also liked the low calcium level for the DIT engine.
My Subaru has never drank any oil, but my miles are pretty low and I have a different engine than the OPer (2.0l instead of 2.5l turbo). Even so, I have shelled out some coin for M1 5W30 ESP to try something more robust than regular M1 on my next change. I can't really recommend it due to the price, I just wanted to stick with 5W30 for now due to warranty concerns and I also liked the low calcium level for the DIT engine.
Originally Posted By: xmakeafistx
6. Whether your car has any known problems
- Previous oil consumption, oil smell (I think?) at high RPM's.
I missed this earlier. The oil smell could be the valve cover gaskets weeping. I had to replace the turbo side gasket on my FXT.
As mentioned above, also change the PCV if it hasn't been done.
6. Whether your car has any known problems
- Previous oil consumption, oil smell (I think?) at high RPM's.
I missed this earlier. The oil smell could be the valve cover gaskets weeping. I had to replace the turbo side gasket on my FXT.
As mentioned above, also change the PCV if it hasn't been done.
Thank you everyone for your well thought out replies. I think I may give the RT6 a shot once the weather starts to warm up. Not too long ago it hit around -20F here in my home state of Wisconsin, and I don't think i'd want to take the risk with 10w suggestions. Would it be alright to give the 0w-40 RT6 a shot or is this a completely different monster?
I agree that Amsoil is pretty [censored] pricey to be playing around with but as long as I see the full benefits of doing so I have no problem paying a bit more money for something that will prolong the life of my engine.
I forgot to mention that I had recently replaced my PCV valve and the oil smell has been much less noticeable but still there. I think my valve cover gaskets may need replacing at some point as I have noticed that there has been gunk on top of my engine in really strange places. I'm going to assume this is somehow from the PCV and valve cover gaskets together. Valve gaskets can wait for a day where I have more money to spend (hopefully after using cheaper oil).
Thank you again everyone, this has given me a pretty good guide to follow. More 5w suggestions for the winter would be well appreciated. I'd like to avoid M1 but after all of these suggestions I may change my mind, assuming that the average poster on here is much more knowledgeable than I.
I agree that Amsoil is pretty [censored] pricey to be playing around with but as long as I see the full benefits of doing so I have no problem paying a bit more money for something that will prolong the life of my engine.
I forgot to mention that I had recently replaced my PCV valve and the oil smell has been much less noticeable but still there. I think my valve cover gaskets may need replacing at some point as I have noticed that there has been gunk on top of my engine in really strange places. I'm going to assume this is somehow from the PCV and valve cover gaskets together. Valve gaskets can wait for a day where I have more money to spend (hopefully after using cheaper oil).
Thank you again everyone, this has given me a pretty good guide to follow. More 5w suggestions for the winter would be well appreciated. I'd like to avoid M1 but after all of these suggestions I may change my mind, assuming that the average poster on here is much more knowledgeable than I.
Despite what the guys are saying here, it looks like Amsoil is working for you. I still also recommend XW-40 oils in Turbo Subie engines. I use Amsoil SS 0W-40 in my 2014. If Blue Subie wants to recommend something more "robust", I would laugh pretty hard. I think almost any decent 0W-40 will be a better choice than 5W-30.
That said - if it's a few dollars you want to save, why not use Amsoil 5W-40 EFM. The PC price is less than Mobil1 0W-40, it seems to perform better and is very "robust", at least as good if not better than Motul for less money.
Here's a link: Amsoil EFM 5W-40
Let me know if you want the PC price.
That said - if it's a few dollars you want to save, why not use Amsoil 5W-40 EFM. The PC price is less than Mobil1 0W-40, it seems to perform better and is very "robust", at least as good if not better than Motul for less money.
Here's a link: Amsoil EFM 5W-40
Let me know if you want the PC price.
I agree with Pablo.
Don't bean count a good thing!
Don't bean count a good thing!
Originally Posted By: Pablo
. If Blue Subie wants to recommend something more "robust", I would laugh pretty hard. I think almost any decent 0W-40 will be a better choice than 5W-30.
I said more robust than Amsoil SS xW-30 Apology accepted!
. If Blue Subie wants to recommend something more "robust", I would laugh pretty hard. I think almost any decent 0W-40 will be a better choice than 5W-30.
I said more robust than Amsoil SS xW-30 Apology accepted!
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Originally Posted By: Pablo
Despite what the guys are saying here, it looks like Amsoil is working for you. I still also recommend XW-40 oils in Turbo Subie engines. I use Amsoil SS 0W-40 in my 2014. If Blue Subie wants to recommend something more "robust", I would laugh pretty hard. I think almost any decent 0W-40 will be a better choice than 5W-30.
That said - if it's a few dollars you want to save, why not use Amsoil 5W-40 EFM. The PC price is less than Mobil1 0W-40, it seems to perform better and is very "robust", at least as good if not better than Motul for less money.
Here's a link: Amsoil EFM 5W-40
Let me know if you want the PC price.
I looked at Amsoil SS 5W30 in some detail and thought it looked pretty fantastic.
After I learned about the likely link between calcium in oil and LSPI in some DIT engines, I decided against it because it has an exceptionally high dose of calcium (think this was also true of M1 0W-40). Otherwise, it looked like a nearly perfect oil given that I wanted to stick with 5W30 for the time being.
Despite what the guys are saying here, it looks like Amsoil is working for you. I still also recommend XW-40 oils in Turbo Subie engines. I use Amsoil SS 0W-40 in my 2014. If Blue Subie wants to recommend something more "robust", I would laugh pretty hard. I think almost any decent 0W-40 will be a better choice than 5W-30.
That said - if it's a few dollars you want to save, why not use Amsoil 5W-40 EFM. The PC price is less than Mobil1 0W-40, it seems to perform better and is very "robust", at least as good if not better than Motul for less money.
Here's a link: Amsoil EFM 5W-40
Let me know if you want the PC price.
I looked at Amsoil SS 5W30 in some detail and thought it looked pretty fantastic.
After I learned about the likely link between calcium in oil and LSPI in some DIT engines, I decided against it because it has an exceptionally high dose of calcium (think this was also true of M1 0W-40). Otherwise, it looked like a nearly perfect oil given that I wanted to stick with 5W30 for the time being.
Originally Posted By: xmakeafistx
Why is it that most Subaru owners go with T6? I'm not doubting their decision or the recommendations at all, I guess I'm just wondering why this is a thing.
Also, M1 for some reason does not work well with Subaru's. A lot of people on the forums seem to avoid it like no other. My experience was not good with it.
Also, that is good to know about the color of oil. It seemed to have a thickness to it too (with the M1). Is that also a sign of better cleaning?
Oil becoming thicker and darker is more a sign of oil oxydating than of oil better cleaning.
By the other hand if Amsoil reduced your oil consumption and your engine goes strong why you want something else, it seems Signature Series is working well for you?
Why is it that most Subaru owners go with T6? I'm not doubting their decision or the recommendations at all, I guess I'm just wondering why this is a thing.
Also, M1 for some reason does not work well with Subaru's. A lot of people on the forums seem to avoid it like no other. My experience was not good with it.
Also, that is good to know about the color of oil. It seemed to have a thickness to it too (with the M1). Is that also a sign of better cleaning?
Oil becoming thicker and darker is more a sign of oil oxydating than of oil better cleaning.
By the other hand if Amsoil reduced your oil consumption and your engine goes strong why you want something else, it seems Signature Series is working well for you?
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Despite what the guys are saying here, it looks like Amsoil is working for you. I still also recommend XW-40 oils in Turbo Subie engines. I use Amsoil SS 0W-40 in my 2014. If Blue Subie wants to recommend something more "robust", I would laugh pretty hard. I think almost any decent 0W-40 will be a better choice than 5W-30.
That said - if it's a few dollars you want to save, why not use Amsoil 5W-40 EFM. The PC price is less than Mobil1 0W-40, it seems to perform better and is very "robust", at least as good if not better than Motul for less money.
Here's a link: Amsoil EFM 5W-40
Let me know if you want the PC price.
I looked at Amsoil SS 5W30 in some detail and thought it looked pretty fantastic.
After I learned about the likely link between calcium in oil and LSPI in some DIT engines, I decided against it because it has an exceptionally high dose of calcium (think this was also true of M1 0W-40). Otherwise, it looked like a nearly perfect oil given that I wanted to stick with 5W30 for the time being.
Very robust detergency but not as robust in the HTHS and viscosity departments. That's why even Pablo recommended SS 0W-40.
I have some uoa's on the SS 0W-30 in this forum, and gathermewool has some uoa's on the SS 5W-30 in his old STI at IWSTI.com. Very good oil, but not necessarily the best grade for the OP's application, IMO.
The old 2.0 EJ's weren't as finicky about oil as the 2.5's, but there's nothing wrong with bumping up the viscosity when the manual allows 10W-40 IMO.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Despite what the guys are saying here, it looks like Amsoil is working for you. I still also recommend XW-40 oils in Turbo Subie engines. I use Amsoil SS 0W-40 in my 2014. If Blue Subie wants to recommend something more "robust", I would laugh pretty hard. I think almost any decent 0W-40 will be a better choice than 5W-30.
That said - if it's a few dollars you want to save, why not use Amsoil 5W-40 EFM. The PC price is less than Mobil1 0W-40, it seems to perform better and is very "robust", at least as good if not better than Motul for less money.
Here's a link: Amsoil EFM 5W-40
Let me know if you want the PC price.
I looked at Amsoil SS 5W30 in some detail and thought it looked pretty fantastic.
After I learned about the likely link between calcium in oil and LSPI in some DIT engines, I decided against it because it has an exceptionally high dose of calcium (think this was also true of M1 0W-40). Otherwise, it looked like a nearly perfect oil given that I wanted to stick with 5W30 for the time being.
Very robust detergency but not as robust in the HTHS and viscosity departments. That's why even Pablo recommended SS 0W-40.
I have some uoa's on the SS 0W-30 in this forum, and gathermewool has some uoa's on the SS 5W-30 in his old STI at IWSTI.com. Very good oil, but not necessarily the best grade for the OP's application, IMO.
The old 2.0 EJ's weren't as finicky about oil as the 2.5's, but there's nothing wrong with bumping up the viscosity when the manual allows 10W-40 IMO.
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Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Very robust detergency but not as robust in the HTHS and viscosity departments. That's why even Pablo recommended SS 0W-40.
I have some uoa's on the SS 0W-30 in this forum, and gathermewool has some uoa's on the SS 5W-30 in his old STI at IWSTI.com. Very good oil, but not necessarily the best grade for the OP's application, IMO.
The old 2.0 EJ's weren't as finicky about oil as the 2.5's, but there's nothing wrong with bumping up the viscosity when the manual allows 10W-40 IMO.
I was looking at the 5W30 due to warranty concerns (although I'm not sure the SS met the API or ILSAC classifications that Subaru wanted), which would not remotely be an issue with the OPer's vehicle. I do see that it is very common for experienced Subie turbo owners to recommend using XW-40 oils (including some diesel versions).
Very robust detergency but not as robust in the HTHS and viscosity departments. That's why even Pablo recommended SS 0W-40.
I have some uoa's on the SS 0W-30 in this forum, and gathermewool has some uoa's on the SS 5W-30 in his old STI at IWSTI.com. Very good oil, but not necessarily the best grade for the OP's application, IMO.
The old 2.0 EJ's weren't as finicky about oil as the 2.5's, but there's nothing wrong with bumping up the viscosity when the manual allows 10W-40 IMO.
I was looking at the 5W30 due to warranty concerns (although I'm not sure the SS met the API or ILSAC classifications that Subaru wanted), which would not remotely be an issue with the OPer's vehicle. I do see that it is very common for experienced Subie turbo owners to recommend using XW-40 oils (including some diesel versions).
higher mileage engines generally need thicker oils, especially a turbo'd engine. if you read enough you will know most "synthetics" are highly refined CRUDE oils Amsoil included classed group III. some may use real synthetic group IV PAO + V Ester of which there are many. there are a few PAO + Ester oils today + they will TELL you to validate their higher prices from higher base oil costs. diesel oils have better additives that last longer. depending on your budget a 10-40 group III synthetic is a good bet, a 5-40 may help in the winter. oils with wider spreads like 5-40 require more fragile viscosity improvers unless they are real group IV or V oils, another story all together.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
OK, you have 160,000 miles and an oil smell (occasionally...). That likely means a weep or a seep somewhere and it's getting on the exhaust. Maybe only a drop of two, but when you shut it off, it'll waft up and you'll smell it walking away.
So there may be two place (or more) that the oil is going. Some past the rings and guides, some weeping, and some slipping by the PCV Valve ...
Since he has a turbo engine, he should see if the turbo is leaking. Remove a pipe that is connected to the intercooler and check for oil. Also, pull the oxygen sensor out and check for oil or oil ashes.
OK, you have 160,000 miles and an oil smell (occasionally...). That likely means a weep or a seep somewhere and it's getting on the exhaust. Maybe only a drop of two, but when you shut it off, it'll waft up and you'll smell it walking away.
So there may be two place (or more) that the oil is going. Some past the rings and guides, some weeping, and some slipping by the PCV Valve ...
Since he has a turbo engine, he should see if the turbo is leaking. Remove a pipe that is connected to the intercooler and check for oil. Also, pull the oxygen sensor out and check for oil or oil ashes.
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