rauljimenez - What type of oil and viscosity have you been using, and what ARE you going to use in the future?
Need oil advise: 97 Isuzu Rodeo V6
- Thread starter Ramblin Fever
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Any ideas on where I can find Redline?
I did my Auto-RX clean phase with Mobil 1 10w-40. Now i'm on my rinse phase with Havoline 10w-40 and no tick so far, try it out bro.
My moms trooper was put on a diet of synthetic when it hit 11k. The oil was s2k amsoil 0w30 from about 11k to 60k with 10k drain intervals.
From 60k on up it was run on M1 5w30 and 10w30 with 3k to 4k intervals.
The ticking was on and off from 70k till about 130k
Its a 96 and its had sythetic all its life so I just dont see how the lifters could be clogged.
At 130k I put GC in it and it made it the quietest it had ever been.
Engine restore with M1 kept it quiet but I hate adding aditives to M1!!!!
GC is geting harder to find and I came across 6 free qts of maxlife syn 5w30 so thats whats in it right now. With the maxlife its on and off but more than I want it to be.
I think he next oil thats goin in is 5w40 truck and suv M1. Currently has 148k and uses no oil and actually runs great aside from the ticking.
From 60k on up it was run on M1 5w30 and 10w30 with 3k to 4k intervals.
The ticking was on and off from 70k till about 130k
Its a 96 and its had sythetic all its life so I just dont see how the lifters could be clogged.
At 130k I put GC in it and it made it the quietest it had ever been.
Engine restore with M1 kept it quiet but I hate adding aditives to M1!!!!
GC is geting harder to find and I came across 6 free qts of maxlife syn 5w30 so thats whats in it right now. With the maxlife its on and off but more than I want it to be.
I think he next oil thats goin in is 5w40 truck and suv M1. Currently has 148k and uses no oil and actually runs great aside from the ticking.
You know, I found your info on this particular vehicle some weeks back, doing research - and your statement about the ticking having started even after half a life on Mobil 1 and all of it's life, so far, on synthetic, has got me hesitant in believing that it's caused from clogged lifters.
If in fact, the ticking is caused from clogged lifters - which no one really knows for 100% certain, then the theory of running synthetic - Mobil 1 - of all synthetics, hasn't done this particular engine any good. In which case, can really ANY synthetic keep an engine any cleaner - I mean, this truck, your Trooper has had nothing but.
There's times I don't believe the ticking's from being clogged, especially seeing as how it's been nearly 25 degrees cooler here in the last 2 days, and during these 2 days, I have no ticking at all.
Any which way - I dumped in 12 oz of Marvel mystery oil, into a full tank of gas and I'll change the oil at the end of next week. We'll see where that takes me, and the heat should return over the weekend.
I was gonna run a round of Redline, like Geoff had mentioned - but I can't locate any, and I still am hesitant to believe that my engine - like yours - can be that gunky to really need a flush or anything of the sorts.
Finally found the Puralator Premium plus oil filter that fits this engine, gonna do that with the Chevron synthetic 5w-40 next week. Can't seem to find Havoline synthetic in the 5-40 and from my understanding they're the same anyway.
I am not wasting my money on synthethics on an engine prone to leaking, i'll stick with auto-rx and dino oils with a good filter like purolator.
Prone to leaking???
Is your's leaking?
The only common place for them to leak, is at the valve cover gaskets right around 80-100K miles - but that's probably common for any vehicle at that point.
Is your's leaking?
The only common place for them to leak, is at the valve cover gaskets right around 80-100K miles - but that's probably common for any vehicle at that point.
I have been using Rotella T Syn 5w-40 with good luck. Troopers have solid lifters however (with the 3.5L engine), so the ticking comes from clogged hydraulic lifters in the 3.2L engine.
These engines are otherwise very similar and have a very stout construction.
If I were you I would use Auto-RX, or a strongly ester based oil like Redline or Motul and run it for 3K miles. Change the filter in the middle since they are bite size. After this treatment, do the "rinse" cycle with a good regular oil.
The Isuzu TSB fix was to use Mobil 1 0w-30 for a time and then go back to whatever oil. You will get faster results using the ester oils in my opinion.
Good luck.
These engines are otherwise very similar and have a very stout construction.
If I were you I would use Auto-RX, or a strongly ester based oil like Redline or Motul and run it for 3K miles. Change the filter in the middle since they are bite size. After this treatment, do the "rinse" cycle with a good regular oil.
The Isuzu TSB fix was to use Mobil 1 0w-30 for a time and then go back to whatever oil. You will get faster results using the ester oils in my opinion.
Good luck.
Its had M1 most of its life but it did get amsoil the the first 50k or so before M1.
Either oil should keep it very clean.
I read somwhere that it was caused by wear related to the valvetrain and since it cant be adjusted to compesate for wear the result is ticking.
I wish I could find some more GC but wel see how the M1 truck and suv 5w40 goes.
Either oil should keep it very clean.
I read somwhere that it was caused by wear related to the valvetrain and since it cant be adjusted to compesate for wear the result is ticking.
I wish I could find some more GC but wel see how the M1 truck and suv 5w40 goes.
I think- some peoples tick, is from the lifters not getting enough flow, other peoples tick, is from worn lifters that have worn beyond the auto-adjusters ability to compensate.
I'm starting to think that my tick is beyond anything an oil can do to fix, because, it seems to continue through the rpms most of the time- suggesting that even more oil pressure can't "pump" up the lifter enough to fill the gap. I can't imagine this thing being *too* awfull dirty, even though I use lots of different oils, they get changed out at intervals most people would call "very short." (2-3K, sometimes less)... I guess, an ARX treatment, or a few runs on ester oil couldn't hurt, I might as well give it a try.
BTW: I too, have noticed that sometimes, When the oil is very cold, the tick is quietest... however, other times, when it is cold, it is LOUDest... I have had varied results with different tempuratures. Another indication, that It could still be a flow issue, that could potencially be fixed through a good cleaning...
Assuming I were to buy a cleaning addative. Lube control? or ARX? i've heard great things about both of these on these forums. Some have suggested that LC is actually better for removing the tough stuff.
I'm starting to think that my tick is beyond anything an oil can do to fix, because, it seems to continue through the rpms most of the time- suggesting that even more oil pressure can't "pump" up the lifter enough to fill the gap. I can't imagine this thing being *too* awfull dirty, even though I use lots of different oils, they get changed out at intervals most people would call "very short." (2-3K, sometimes less)... I guess, an ARX treatment, or a few runs on ester oil couldn't hurt, I might as well give it a try.
BTW: I too, have noticed that sometimes, When the oil is very cold, the tick is quietest... however, other times, when it is cold, it is LOUDest... I have had varied results with different tempuratures. Another indication, that It could still be a flow issue, that could potencially be fixed through a good cleaning...
Assuming I were to buy a cleaning addative. Lube control? or ARX? i've heard great things about both of these on these forums. Some have suggested that LC is actually better for removing the tough stuff.
What ester-based oil are you gonna go with?
I can't find any up here.
I'm wondering if perhaps your oil screen is somewhat clogged, and/or has your timing belt tensioner ever been changed/checked?
My ticking stops at 1200 rpm's, and only comes back at idle. It's been known, the timing belt tensioner to make noise if it's on it's way out - and it gets loud from what I've heard.
I can't find any up here.
I'm wondering if perhaps your oil screen is somewhat clogged, and/or has your timing belt tensioner ever been changed/checked?
My ticking stops at 1200 rpm's, and only comes back at idle. It's been known, the timing belt tensioner to make noise if it's on it's way out - and it gets loud from what I've heard.
Sorry my mistake, what I wanted to say is basically it is an engine that consumes oil, thats why I dont like synthethics on it but if you can afford it then go ahead.Either M1 dino or Havoline will do good.
As Ramblin Fever said, check the timing belt tensioner, I had to replace mine and it was the loudest sound like a hammer tappin front side of the engine near the radiator.
Man, I must've lucked out - feel bad for all of you oil users, I never realized that it was a big problem on the 97 & previous years.
After some more thinking, I'm not comfortable, and never have been with the idea of using Mobil 1.
I'm gonna stick to 10w-30 in the winter, and 5w-40 in the summer Havoline or Chevron brands.
After some more thinking, I'm not comfortable, and never have been with the idea of using Mobil 1.
I'm gonna stick to 10w-30 in the winter, and 5w-40 in the summer Havoline or Chevron brands.
if it were my timing belt tensioner- why would different oils and addatives, seems to have an effect on the noise? I'm aware these tensioners are notorious for causing a flapping/ticking type noise, but I just can't rationalize a timing belt noise being eliminated when I switched to using "restore" on each change. (then the sound returned about 8k later, but still).
It just doesn't *sound* like a belt flapping around. Sounds to *tight* and high pitch. tick tick tick... like metal hitting metal.
I'll be having the timing belt/tensioner/waterpump replaced here sometime in the next few months just for safety sake, we'll see if that makes a difference.
It just doesn't *sound* like a belt flapping around. Sounds to *tight* and high pitch. tick tick tick... like metal hitting metal.
I'll be having the timing belt/tensioner/waterpump replaced here sometime in the next few months just for safety sake, we'll see if that makes a difference.
It was just a thought, wasn't sure if you were aware that the timing belt tensioner can sound like a rod knock when it's on it's way. And I believe it gets it's umph based on oil pressure - but your right, it's not oil picky.
I was gonna have mine done soon here too, but gotta save - best mechanic that I know of quoted me $850 for the belt, tensioner, water pump, but he's also gonna do the camshaft/crankshaft seals, says there's no point in NOT doing them in a vehicle with higher mileage.
Don't know what to think anymore on this tick.
Mine came back with the return of the heat the other day, but then I threw in about 12oz of MMO in the gas tank and drove for 30 miles so far. Went out and drove it for another 15 miles today, no ticking at all, not even a hint.
So I don't believe oil brand/viscosity has "everything" to do with the ticking.
I was gonna have mine done soon here too, but gotta save - best mechanic that I know of quoted me $850 for the belt, tensioner, water pump, but he's also gonna do the camshaft/crankshaft seals, says there's no point in NOT doing them in a vehicle with higher mileage.
Don't know what to think anymore on this tick.
Mine came back with the return of the heat the other day, but then I threw in about 12oz of MMO in the gas tank and drove for 30 miles so far. Went out and drove it for another 15 miles today, no ticking at all, not even a hint.
So I don't believe oil brand/viscosity has "everything" to do with the ticking.
yea, oil certainly isn't a direct cause or solution, but the theory is that, for some folks, certain oils/addatives have caused the ticking to deminish. It's odd... I just hate the idea of doing an engine rebuild, or even just replacing some of the upper part, to have the tick return a little ways down the road- which I have heard of happening with some folks... It's as if these things were designed to tick or something. I'm almost contimplating, running this engine till it's grave, then looking at a different SUV rather than maintaining this one. I've heard mixed feelings about the jeeps. But I really would like a mid-90s cherokee with an inline 6. Something neat about the idea of having a "tractor" engine.
I hear ya, and understand, I do. But I feel every vehicle has it's quirks, every make/model, and I've had my share of em with other vehicles.
The fact that you were not the original owner, and perhaps the original owner did not appreciate it as much as you have is most likely what's lead to a lot of your decision and irritation on this truck.
I do believe these rigs are gonna tick, just keep on changing that oil and go from there - you may be surprized what you get out of this engine yet. It doesn't sound like it's giving you any other kinds of grief?? Just ticking?
You do have up-wards of 170K or so, correct me if I'm wrong, can't remember for sure - that's pretty darn good, without any major repairs, personally. Most vehicles would've already had headgasket failures, transmission issues, etc.
Hey if it gets you another 2yrs or so, that's 2 more years of not looking/paying for another vehicle.
I have a co-worker with an inline 6, hasn't had any major issues - however it's a 7yr old jeep with only 30K miles. He can't afford to drive it or go anywhere because it sucks gas like water.
I can relate the pure frustration, our last 2 big trucks have been nothing but $$$$ it seems. One was a 99 Chevy 3/4 ton bought used with 36K. Ate tires like they were out of style, 2 sets every year, had all kinds of time/effort put into locating a possible suspension issue, the disc brakes couldn't hold the weight of the truck, let-alone the boat on a mild boat-dock - mind you THIS is what the truck was bought to do. 2 computer chips went out, the radiator blew, the main ECU went out, clutch was going out.
This was all under 90K miles - and worst of all, the Chevy dealerships refused to cover anything the least bit out of warranty. Call the manufactor, all they say is call the dealership where you bought it.
We traded that puppy just before the 2nd ECU was going out, along with the clutch - to replace the clutch would've been $8-900. That truck had been maintained by the book - no reason for the issues.
2nd truck is an 01 Dodge Diesel, again bought used with 40K - can't afford brandnew. Not too bad $$$ wise, so far, as most things are still under warranty. But it's gone back in for more repairs then my 2 Rodeo's ever had put together - Oil drain pan sprung a big leak, fuel pump related issues, rear main seal was weeping when we bought it - decided to just open up and flow, Airbag sensor system flipped out, already has 6 spots of rust and it only has 70K miles now.
Needs new shocks, not bad, but are going, 3rd set of tires in 3yrs - ate threw the BFG A/T's, Pathfinder A/T's and we're now on Yokohama A/T's. I understand these trucks are heavy - but by golly, at $175-$180 a tire this is rediculous. Will put the Michelin's on next time, I've heard they'll last a good few years.
And worst of all, is we have been informed we have the famous 35 block which is notorious for engine block cracking/failure between 60-100K miles.
It gets drove very gently once a week - this is not a truck that is driven harshly, unlike many other people I see with the diesels.
As you can see, although it's an irritation to the mind, my Rodeo's ticking is the least of my issues. It just happens to be my daily driver, as I don't trust putting the wear and tear on the dodge without big maintenance costs.
I spend roughly $200 a year on the Rodeo for full tune-ups and changing of all fluids/filters, and it's only on it's 3rd set of tires in 8yrs with a LOT of boat hauling and highway/mild-offroad adventures.
I hope to keep this Rodeo for another good 3-5yrs, everything original, hoping. Don't know what to do without it, don't trust anything else.
But by golly, I do understand your vehicle frustration - I do believe a lot of it is just the luck of the draw anymore.
The fact that you were not the original owner, and perhaps the original owner did not appreciate it as much as you have is most likely what's lead to a lot of your decision and irritation on this truck.
I do believe these rigs are gonna tick, just keep on changing that oil and go from there - you may be surprized what you get out of this engine yet. It doesn't sound like it's giving you any other kinds of grief?? Just ticking?
You do have up-wards of 170K or so, correct me if I'm wrong, can't remember for sure - that's pretty darn good, without any major repairs, personally. Most vehicles would've already had headgasket failures, transmission issues, etc.
Hey if it gets you another 2yrs or so, that's 2 more years of not looking/paying for another vehicle.
I have a co-worker with an inline 6, hasn't had any major issues - however it's a 7yr old jeep with only 30K miles. He can't afford to drive it or go anywhere because it sucks gas like water.
I can relate the pure frustration, our last 2 big trucks have been nothing but $$$$ it seems. One was a 99 Chevy 3/4 ton bought used with 36K. Ate tires like they were out of style, 2 sets every year, had all kinds of time/effort put into locating a possible suspension issue, the disc brakes couldn't hold the weight of the truck, let-alone the boat on a mild boat-dock - mind you THIS is what the truck was bought to do. 2 computer chips went out, the radiator blew, the main ECU went out, clutch was going out.
This was all under 90K miles - and worst of all, the Chevy dealerships refused to cover anything the least bit out of warranty. Call the manufactor, all they say is call the dealership where you bought it.
We traded that puppy just before the 2nd ECU was going out, along with the clutch - to replace the clutch would've been $8-900. That truck had been maintained by the book - no reason for the issues.
2nd truck is an 01 Dodge Diesel, again bought used with 40K - can't afford brandnew. Not too bad $$$ wise, so far, as most things are still under warranty. But it's gone back in for more repairs then my 2 Rodeo's ever had put together - Oil drain pan sprung a big leak, fuel pump related issues, rear main seal was weeping when we bought it - decided to just open up and flow, Airbag sensor system flipped out, already has 6 spots of rust and it only has 70K miles now.
Needs new shocks, not bad, but are going, 3rd set of tires in 3yrs - ate threw the BFG A/T's, Pathfinder A/T's and we're now on Yokohama A/T's. I understand these trucks are heavy - but by golly, at $175-$180 a tire this is rediculous. Will put the Michelin's on next time, I've heard they'll last a good few years.
And worst of all, is we have been informed we have the famous 35 block which is notorious for engine block cracking/failure between 60-100K miles.
It gets drove very gently once a week - this is not a truck that is driven harshly, unlike many other people I see with the diesels.
As you can see, although it's an irritation to the mind, my Rodeo's ticking is the least of my issues. It just happens to be my daily driver, as I don't trust putting the wear and tear on the dodge without big maintenance costs.
I spend roughly $200 a year on the Rodeo for full tune-ups and changing of all fluids/filters, and it's only on it's 3rd set of tires in 8yrs with a LOT of boat hauling and highway/mild-offroad adventures.
I hope to keep this Rodeo for another good 3-5yrs, everything original, hoping. Don't know what to do without it, don't trust anything else.
But by golly, I do understand your vehicle frustration - I do believe a lot of it is just the luck of the draw anymore.
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