Need OBDII HELP

[double vanos]

Ok we’re talking my ‘96 chevy 1/2 ton 5.7 Vortec. It’s been pretty much problem free since sorting out but lately it’s had an occasional bucking. Finally set a code and I replaced the cam sensor in the distributor. Runs fine now but perusing the code reader shows the timing between -24 to -36 during driving.
I'm an old school hot rodder and from past experience I can tell you nothing runs at a negative number. All the pre-computer cars I’ve had, the closer to zero the timing got the crappier they ran; retard to the negatives and it’s story over.
I understand this is OBD2 and computer controlled but I’m confused. Runs fine, pin the throttle and full speed ahead captain. At 242k it’s a rocket. I just don’t get it.
What gives guys?

 

[atikovi]

Runs fine now but perusing the code reader shows the timing between -24 to -36 during driving.
I'm an old school hot rodder and from past experience I can tell you nothing runs at a negative number.

That -XX just refers to degrees BEFORE top dead center. Most cars in the old days with adjustable timing were set to -5 to -10° before TDC at idle and with distributor advance, would reach to what you are seeing during driving. Perfectly normal.

 

[double vanos]

Exactly. Most all my older cars had initial timing somewhere between 5 and 10 degrees. The centrifugal was easy to figure (usually added 7-15 degrees) and when vacuum advance was added in during cruise you were at the middle 30s +/-. So the negative sign in front of the numbers on my Actron code reader don’t mean negative timing all.
‘Thanks a lot; ‘ol Betsy’s ready to roll…

 

[zrxkawboy]

So the negative sign in front of the numbers on my Actron code reader don’t mean negative timing all.

But it does. The spark occurs BEFORE TDC, so therefore it's a negative number. That's how I see it, anyway.