Need help with oil on tweeked street motor

[MardiGrasMax]

I have a 98 Nissan Maxima 3.0L V6 that I have went a little crazy on. It has a Vortech V1s blower putting putting out 13.5psi and alot of bolt-ons etc. It dynos at 337hp/285tq at the wheels, so I am pushing the stock motor very hard. When I did most of this crazy stuff to what is my daily driver, my commute to work was 15 miles round trip, now it is 90 miles round trip. I am quite worried about motor wear from the excessive miles I am now putting on my motor and of course from the extra power output. I have run Mobil1 and Redline oils with PureOne and Mobil1 filters. If I go much past a 3k change interval I get high lead readings in my Blackstone Oil Reports . I am looking for the best of both worlds here

I would like high oil change interval with an oil that isnt as pricey as Red Line or Amsol and great protection when I am putting strain on the motor and go to the drag strip etc. I have been using 10w30, perhaps 10w40 or 20w50 would be a better choice? The filters I use are 20 micron and I was thinking that they may be geting clogged after 3k and bypassing, perhaps I should do a filter change at 3k and run to 5k and do another sample? I am open to any sugestions except lowering the power output of my motor

Thanks for any help,
Matt

 

[Patman]

How about giving the 15w40 Schaeffer blend a try? It's a lot cheaper than most oils, is very durable and would probably lower those lead levels (which at 10ppm per 4k aren't that bad already). You also might want to look into the K&N oil filters since they flow a lot more than most oil filters and are meant for racing applications, but yet are 90% efficient at 10 microns in the multipass test. (single pass efficiency is around 98% at 18 microns)

[ December 14, 2002, 07:40 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]

 

[satterfi]

quote:

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Originally posted by MardiGrasMax:


snip

I am open to any sugestions

snip

Matt

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Buy a commuter box to go to work and back home. And if you really want strong acceleration by a Hayabusa or a ZX12.

 

[Patman]

I don't think that's quite the suggestion he was looking for.

Yes a motorcycle is the cheapest way to go fast, however I personally prefer having four walls of steel around me with any powerful machine I own.

It is possible to have a powerful daily driver, I know a lot of f-body owners who have cars with 400+ RWHP and drive their cars everyday. A few of them even do it in snowy areas too (with the right snow tires of course)

Now let's get back to discussing oil.

 

[Terry]

Matt stick with Redline 10w-30, switch oil filters back to Nissan stock type ( it will also reduce wear on start), they flow more oil than the two you have been using and will save you a few bucks. The wear values are perfectly normal and will decrease with use with Redline.

You need a sample that shows Nox and Oxd and TBN periodically. That would enable you to extend the drain for a cost savings and give a more complete picture of the engine.
The only other option for the oil ( cheaper ) is use a custom built oil. If you skimp on lubrication it will cost you.

Dialing the boost down for daily driving will ease the strain on the engine. Although the wear values you shaow aren't that bad and Nissans are tough.

contact me for more info if you desire.

 

[satterfi]

Patman

He did say "any suggestions".

If I'm limited to oil suggestions then buy RL 10w40 on the internet for $6.13 per quart.

 

[MardiGrasMax]

Thanks guys! Terry I sent you an e-mail.

A crotch rocket would be cool but I realized along time ago that I dont have the self control to not end up a stastic, I need some sheet metal as protection.

 

[Chris]

You all must have a lot of patience waiting for a cage to accelerate!

 

[Al]

Terry: Any reason for suggesting the Nissan filters? Do you have any knowledge of their Micron Values?? The reason I ask is that I use the K&N's on my 2L Sentra.

Thanks Al

 

[MardiGrasMax]

quote:

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Originally posted by Chris:
You all must have a lot of patience waiting for a cage to accelerate!

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I dunno, I think a 13.0et @ 109mph on street tires is sorta quick for a four door grocery gettin cage.

[ December 15, 2002, 08:19 PM: Message edited by: MardiGrasMax ]

 

[satterfi]

quote:

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Originally posted by MardiGrasMax:


I dunno, I think a 13.0et @ 109mph on street tires is sorta quick for a four door grocery gettin cage.

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I guess you don't what your ice cream to melt on the way home from the store.

I suppose if you had a bike you'd put a turbo on it after you got bored with 10sec 1/4 miles. Some people just can't leave well enough alone.

 

[pedaltothemetal]

I just got 16qts of 10w40 Royal Purple from NAPA for $3.99/qt. Going to do 8000mi drains with a filter change in between. That should average out just like the Delo 400 15w40 I have been using.
BTW my '98 Camaro does 12.2 @ 118mph on drag radials.

[ December 15, 2002, 10:52 PM: Message edited by: pedaltothemetal ]

 

[Terry]

Al, IF you can get them at a decent price use them. I don't know the efficiency rating of nissan filters but I know we get very low wear values using them and good flow rate over 6000 mile drains on test oils that are non syn.

I am under the impression they are built in TN by Nissan USA.

 

[Spector]

I had two Maximas with the 3.0 L V 6 in the past 5 years, analysis on both showed higher then ave (compared to other engines I have) lead counts. This engine is a workhorse solid! Your analysis results are excellent and better then mine without the SC. I was running 12,000 mile changes with a filter at 6 months using Amsoil 10W30. .I would doubt very much your filters are getting plugged up, very unlikely. I ran the Amosoil SDF?? which is about twice the size of the OEM filter that Nissan sells for this car. Cna't remember the part # off the top.

[ December 16, 2002, 08:41 AM: Message edited by: Spector ]

 

[williar]

If the 10W30 is working for you, I'd stick with it. Just use a good fully-synthetic oil. You might also consider using M1 0W40.