Need front left hub bearing...which one would you get for son's car?
- Thread starter AshleyQuick
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ACDelco now has 3 lines. The "Blue Labeled" parts are supposed to be GM Original Equipment Parts. The "Gold Labeled" parts is what they are now calling their Professional Line (sort of a mid-tier line of parts that are supposed to be a high quality alternative to OE parts). The "Silver Labeled" parts is now what they call their Advantage Line of parts (for the "value minded" vehicle owner).
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I would use the SKF, they are constructed a little different than the others, you can see the benefits of the construction here..
With these and the W body cars it is just as important to use the correct CV axle nut torque, many a hub has been ruined or had a shorter life due to this. Lots of different specs out there on forums with anything from 186 ft.lb to 107 ft.lb. the correct torque is 118 ft.lb for 1998 to 2005.
Clean the threads and use a new nut. GM used a locking compound on the hub retaining bolts making them very tight to remove, just heat the hub flange near the bolts (the part you can see after you remove the rotor) with a torch, propane will do to soften the loctite then remove them while the bolt is still warm, you can do it without heating them but some of them can be pretty tight, heating them a little helps.
This is a good CV and lug nut chart, it doesnt have every make and model but it covers a lot.
SKF
vehicleaftermarket.skf.com
With these and the W body cars it is just as important to use the correct CV axle nut torque, many a hub has been ruined or had a shorter life due to this. Lots of different specs out there on forums with anything from 186 ft.lb to 107 ft.lb. the correct torque is 118 ft.lb for 1998 to 2005.
Clean the threads and use a new nut. GM used a locking compound on the hub retaining bolts making them very tight to remove, just heat the hub flange near the bolts (the part you can see after you remove the rotor) with a torch, propane will do to soften the loctite then remove them while the bolt is still warm, you can do it without heating them but some of them can be pretty tight, heating them a little helps.
This is a good CV and lug nut chart, it doesnt have every make and model but it covers a lot.
Timken used to be great, now they're made in China like all the "white box" cheap ones. I lucked out & scored 2 made in USA Timkens (right before the change) for the MGM in my sig roughly 5 years ago-5 years & 25K miles later, doing well. I'll have to pony up for SKF if they ever fail!
I had to replace the front hub with a bad bearing on my wife's chrysler T&C. got it at Advance and it was Timken. Failed in a month. Ordered a GMB from Rock Auto. It lasted until we traded it on our Mazda5. You just never know anymore about who has quality parts.
I buy mine (Moog) on Amazon FTW. They are about 1/2 the cost of the local parts stores. I did both the 2005 Jeep and the 2012 Ram in the last year with these parts.
Just my $0.02
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