Need expert break-in Advice

[moribundman]

Most modern motors are synthetic ready - except those that contain plasma moly or chrome rings, and those that are rebuilds.

A new engine has, despite vastly improved production methods, clearance variances and will be tighter than a broken-in motor. Some of the new parts also need to relax into somewhat. After 600 miles or so, most of the metal particles that break-in causes have ended up in the oil. I'd trust a good filter on catching any big-enough partcicles that would otherwise be of concern.

Seating the rings is extremely important. The method of "throttling" a new engine has been described just yesterday in some other thread. You want to establish an even wear pattern. On a new engine, the rings seat very tightly, and combustion contamination of the crakcase oil is less of an issue.

I would go with the manufacturer's recommendation regarding the first oil change. Audi recommended the first oil change on my '96 A4 after 5000k miles, too.

 

[moribundman]

Look at all my typos! It would be nice to get an editing option (and "delete" option). Preview doesn't cut it in my case.

 

[UncleS2]

I like Molakule's advice, and the engine break in heresy under "let the flaming begin". If I should ever have another new engine, &@#* this baby 'em for several K miles stuff- get it warm, run hard acceleration, etc; all within the 1st 25 miles or so.

 

[ALS]

Spector it is a remanufactured motor. Only the bare Block and bare head are used. All internal parts and valve train are new with these engines.

 

[Mike_dup1]

Here's how they recommend you fire up a GM Performance crate engine.

Run engine between 2000 and 2500 rpms, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes.
Drive the vehicle at varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Run 5 or 6 medium throttle accelerations to about 5000 rpm 55-60mph, then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20mph. Run a couple of hard throttle accelerations up to about 5000 rpm 55-60 mph, then letting off in gear coasting back to 20mph. Change oil and filter with 10W40 oil and AC Delco filter PF1218, it does not advise what oil to start out with. Drive next 500 miles normally, without high rpms
I left out instructions for setting timing and priming the oil system.

[ July 02, 2003, 05:18 PM: Message edited by: Mike ]

 

[ALS]

I got a new crate motor Volvo B230FT 4 cylinder.
Something just doesn't seem right about Volvo's advice on the break-in procedure. I Emailed them asking about the original 600 to 1200 mile oil change recommendation. I questioned the advice the Tech gave me about Volvo changing from 600-1200 mile to a 5000 mile break-in oil change.

Here is Volvo's response.

Dear Al,

Thank you for contacting Volvo.

For newer Volvo parts and models, we no longer recommend a break-in period. We would only recommend that the oil be checked every time the
car is refueled prior to the first scheduled service for your vehicle which is every 5000 miles.

We hope this information has been helpful.

Drive Safely,
John Willets
Volvo Cars of North America

I understand it doesn't matter whether I use synthetic or Dino from the start. I have heard over the years that I should use Dino for the first 5000 miles and switch to synthetic after the rings settle in.

Maybe I'm not up with the new ways of doing things but 5000 miles on the break-in oil?

You thoughts and advice on this subject are welcome and appreciated on this one.

 

[Spector]

Is this a rebuild or a new?

 

[MRC01]

That's exactly what Lexus recommended for my 2001 GS430 which has an aluminum 4.3 liter DOHC 32 valve 90 degree V8 which puts out 300 HP and 325 ft.lbs. Original factory oil for the first 5000 miles then put in whatever you want. No breakin period needed just take it easy on the car for the first few hundred miles.

 

[CJH]

quote:

---

Originally posted by ALS:
I got a new crate motor Volvo B230FT 4 cylinder.
...I questioned the advice the Tech gave me about Volvo changing from 600-1200 mile to a 5000 mile break-in oil change.

---

Most modern cars do not require any special break in procedure. Some people on here cling to their old ways and will tell you differently.

 

[MolaKule]

Run something like a Pennzoil, Chevron, or Schaeffer's blend with a multiviscosty 5W30 oil for 500 miles alternating between WOT and granny driving.

Change oil and filter and then add pet oil and filter.

 

[buster]

There are a lot of threads on this topic. I just picked one to bring back up. My Ram manual said to WOT after 300 miles to help the break-in process.

The Accord said avoid fast acceleration for the first 600 miles. I basicially varied the RPM's constantly and didn't go higher then 4k Rpms. Redline on this car is 6,500. I also varied my speed on the highway constantly. Basically the engine had a lot of stop and go driving for the first 600 miles. Good thing?

 

[vwoom]

quote:

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Originally posted by moribundman:
I would go with the manufacturer's recommendation regarding the first oil change. Audi recommended the first oil change on my '96 A4 after 5000k miles, too.

---

Same recommendation in my '00 Passat 1.8T. Followed the manual till 5k and took it real easy on the engine in the first 1k to seat in the rings well.

Availed of the free dealer oil fills at 5k/10k/15k. I then made in between oil changes only using Durablend 10w40 at 7.5k/12.5k/17.5k and full ocis of Synpower 5w40 at 20k/25k and Motul 5w40 from 30k and on...

Well going 5yrs and near 50k later, it has NOT consumed a drop of oil.

 

[buster]

If this idea of WOT to seat the rings on a new engine was so important, more car makers would be advocating it like they did in my Ram manual. I can see it being an issue with law enforcement though.

You'd also have many cars that burn oil out their bc most people I know that have purchased a new car/truck took it easy on it the first 500 miles. I think the precision is so good these days that it's not as necessary to "break-in" an engine a certain way.