Need Boat Trailer Bearing Grease

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Could really use a recommendation on wheel bearing grease for a boat trailer. I've learned a good bit about engine oils on this site, but Grease is a whole new world for me it seems. I'm getting ready to rebuild the undercarriage of my boat trailer. I've never had a bearing failure (thanks to Bearing Buddys), but it's time, and I've seen plenty on the side of the road here in FL that have. I really want a high quality grease packing the bearings because often I am right against the max weight of the trailer given boat, gear, fuel, larger engines, etc. I really need something that can stand up to: Heat and more Heat - this is Florida summers with brake drums on each hub Extended use and speed - a long haul is 5-6 hrs @ 70 mph About 1500 lbs at each hub 100% salt-water almost every weekend It seems that Amsoil sells a Water Resistent grease aimed at trailers: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/gwr.aspx Any thoughts?
 
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Yes, that is what I just bought last week for mine. Amsoil GWR for $5.85. thumbsup I frequently tow 250 miles each way with 3,000Lb of boat. Greased them regularly about twice a year since 2003 without one single issue. It would be great for your use.
 
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I just serviced my trailer hubs, I have used Citgo SuperGuard Hi-Performance Marine Grease (AKA Mystik Hi performance Marine Grease) which is an Anhydrous Calcium grease. I also use Pennzoil Premium Plus Marine Grease which is a Calcium Sulfonate grease. The Pennzoil is a little better grease per the tech specs like dropping point and Timken OK load. Both are excellent and easy to find and reasonable price. https://www.mystiklubricants.com/do/product/GREASES/665065002
 
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IMO the most important thin you can do is grease the hubs before each trip!
 
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There are many choices for boat trailer wheel bearings. Do be careful of grease compatibility. Grease is a mixture of a base thickener, oil, and additives like tackifiers, graphite, moly, teflon, dye, etc. It is the base that may be incompatible with another greases base and create a black runny mess that lets your bearings fail. It matters little whether the oil is conventional or synthetic. A grease rated "GC" is the right grease for wheel bearings ("LB" for chassis lube). Lithium or lithium complex base is the most common, and is moderately waterproof. Aluminum complex is much more waterproof and most are compatible with lithium. The "Greengrease" brand stuff says that they're lithium compatible and highly waterproof. Calcium sulfonate base grease is somewhat more water resistant than lithium and compatible with lithium complex (not plain lithium base). Compatibility is important to prevent problems when the grease is intentionally or inadvertently mixed. So...I'd get an aluminum complex base grease...Bel-Ray or Schaeffer...or the "Greengrease." Be sure the grease seals are new and the spindle surface the seals rub on is not pitted. A dab of Permatex gasket sealer around the outside of the seal where it presses into the hub may help keep water out.
 
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I have been using Amsoil GWR for a number of years and it has done well with one exception. The oil seems to separate out a bit over time and leak out of the boots on my bearing buddys. So I occasionaly have to wipe them out before the oil leaks onto the wheels. I have about 4 tubes left so I'll use them up and may look for something else.
 
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Holy [censored] batman, I NEVER knew there was so much difference beteween greases and so much to know!! You could really screw up an expensive bearing in the marine industry if you mix the wrong grease can't you! I don't think many if any of these guys in the places you buy grease have a clue about this stuff, I know I didn't! Ken, would you say that the lithium based grease would be the most widely used in the marine industry as a marine grease or would they typically use something else?
 
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Originally Posted By: Ken2
There are many choices for boat trailer wheel bearings. Do be careful of grease compatibility. Grease is a mixture of a base thickener, oil, and additives like tackifiers, graphite, moly, teflon, dye, etc. It is the base that may be incompatible with another greases base and create a black runny mess that lets your bearings fail. It matters little whether the oil is conventional or synthetic. A grease rated "GC" is the right grease for wheel bearings ("LB" for chassis lube). Lithium or lithium complex base is the most common, and is moderately waterproof. Aluminum complex is much more waterproof and most are compatible with lithium. The "Greengrease" brand stuff says that they're lithium compatible and highly waterproof. Calcium sulfonate base grease is somewhat more water resistant than lithium and compatible with lithium complex (not plain lithium base). Compatibility is important to prevent problems when the grease is intentionally or inadvertently mixed. So...I'd get an aluminum complex base grease...Bel-Ray or Schaeffer...or the "Greengrease." Be sure the grease seals are new and the spindle surface the seals rub on is not pitted. A dab of Permatex gasket sealer around the outside of the seal where it presses into the hub may help keep water out.
Ken, my understanding is that a calcium sulfonate complex grease is more water resistant than an aluminium complex. Lubrimatic market a very good marine grease that has a high drop point and a high Timken OK load rating and is a calcium sulfonate thickened grease. Someone posted the TDS once, I'll see if I can dig it up. Here it is http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1332466
 
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Also, for marine environmental protection, the calcium based greases are less harmful, while giving great service. Hard to beat the Pennzoil (also makes the Lubrimatic?). Some of the other brands mentioned do not offer TDS sheets for review, so comparisions are not possible ???. I only use products where I can get the TDS info.
 
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Schaeffer 274 , waterproof and good for wheel bearing all info and MSDS can be found on there website also contains5% moly can't go wrong there. Hope you find this helpful
 
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I have a 5'x 8' utility trl. that has been towed from Ill. to Florida to Chicago and tons of mileage in between and my bearings stay nice and cool using M1 grease.
 
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I would stay away from a grease with moly in it. Calcium sulfonate is the way to go. Moly reacts with water and forms sulfuric acid. calcium sulfonate alone is also better for the environment. Also, the schaeffer grease is an aluminum complex grease and is incompatible with all other greases. If you choose to go that route, make certain that you clean out your bearings very well before switching over. Calcium sulfonate is compatible with lithium complex grease which seems to be in most trailers that come from the factory.
 
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I do believe alumn. complex would be an excellent wheel bearing grease, perhaps even the best, assuming two precautions: I would completely clean the hubs and flush the bearings of the old grease (and, yes I have read the compatability charts). However I'm cautious. I will only 'mix' L/C with a different brand of L/C, A/C with A/C, etc. Point 2 is to avoid Moly annotized grease in wheel bearings for the reason previously mentioned concerning the chemical reaction with possible water infusion as well as other well-known reasons pointed out years back by the late George Morrison and other experts. Automobile manuf. & the aftermarket have oftentimes utilized non-Moly alumn-complex grease in permanently lubricated wheel bearings in 4x4's & front wheel drive cars with excellent long-term results and great resistance to water washout.
 
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I agree 100% Sarge on the non-mixing of greases. I only mix the same type of grease period. To me compatibility charts are for emergency use only. Even then, I would remove and replace once the emergency was over.
 
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Bearing Buddies - Check Good Waterproof grease - Looks like you are on your way Don't mix greases - check - if you want to change grease, pull the bearings out and remove/clean all the old grease out first. Make sure when you are launching your boat after a long run that you let the bearings cool off before submurging them. I wait about 20mins. This is the perfect time to get everything together for your day on the water so that you are not tying up the launch ramp too long. Most boat trailer bearing failures are due to thermal shock of the bearings and not the grease itself.
 
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Re-read what I wrote... thermal shock of bearings isn't quite right...hot hubs plus cold water equals water being drawn into the bearings and if they are hot enough, it can cause damage to the running surfaces, not to mention corrosion. Also, I wouldn't grease them every time out...good way to blow the seals. Follow Bearing Buddies recommendation. If you can rock the grease nipple cap you are good to go, if not, add enough for 1/8" movement.
 
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