Need advice for older car burning too much oil

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Hi, I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla VE model car driven with 155K miles. I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada. So you can imagine the car sits in the external temperature of -2 to 30 C (In Fahrenheit: 28 - 86). Since last 2 years I have been using the Mobil-1 Synthetic 5W-30 engine oil and at times use the Lucas injector cleaner. My fluids are maintained well and tire pressures at 80% capacity of the tire wall metrics (new tires) and checked every 30 days. The average daily driving range comes to about 25 miles with 2 passengers. Since last 1 - 1.5 years I am seeing that my car is burning oil too fast, probably since 45 days after every oil change (at Toyota dealership) it dips to very low to almost none level. I have to put more oil manually. I don't know if this is normal Yesterday when I took some time to look at the engine oil cap I saw that the internal side of cap had too much of oil sludge and literally I had to take the sludge out from my fingers by scratching the stuff inside it. I don't know if this is unusual or very normal and if this is any way related to my car burning more oil. My guess to stop oil burning will any of the Rislone Engine Treatment or similar product you see like Dura Lube in Walmart work? Can anybody throw more comment on above 2 topics and what is my best solution for stopping it to burn more oil?
 
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You not gonna like what im going to say but here goes here the people i know that have Corolla(s) of that age, that start burning oil,they use 10w40 or 20w50. Once i saw taxi topped of with sae50 oil. For those temperatures you have try something like a 0w40 or 5w50 smile
 

Car_Careguy

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Forgot to mention. This time I did use Mobil-1 10W-30 with Mobil-1 synthetic filter. The burning process slowed a bit but mileage got affected. Will flushing / shampooing of engine help? My guess is sludge the real culprit behind this?
 
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Remove the valve cover and see if there is any sludge under it. This generation corollas are notorious oil burners because of the oil drain holes on the pistons are too small so they are most likely blocked w sludge. U can try a piston soak and see if that works. It did for me, but did not for many others. The only true fix for this is to drilled larger or more drain holes or replace w updated Toyota pistons. Sorry ,broh
 
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Well you gonna have to sacrifice mileage....what will be better a little more for gas or a little more oil for topping off. Try a 10w40....i never did an engine flush so i cant say frown
 
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25miles/day, 45 days, 1,125 miles. I take it that it needs 2qt to fill back up, so a qt/600miles. Excessive, yes. Apt to get better on its own, or with any sort of oil treatment, no. Does it matter? I come up with 9,100 miles per year. That is 15qt of make up oil being added. Personally, I would not go the full 45 days and add in 2qt at a time (I'm assuming stuff here). I would add a qt when it gets to be a qt low. That done, I'd just run it until something goes which renders the car not worth repairing. As a VE model, it has the 3 speed auto, correct? Cruising at a slower speed on the highway may help. The sludge on the inside of the cap may be from short tripping it. It may need to be run longer to get up to temperature, and to burn off any moisture that accumulates in the crankcase. A shorter oil change interval I don't think will help, not if it's burning at this rate--won't hurt, but I don't think it'll help.
 
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If the piston return holes aren't much coked, baked out, I'd try a flushing, piston soak AND add an engine treatment in a sequence. Depends on how long the problem has appeared, in your case 1.5 years may still be feseable.
 
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I have a 2000 Chevy Prizm. I've been happy using 3 quarts 10w40 and a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. My check engine light doesn't like it, but with 189,000 miles these things happen. Good luck
 
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Originally Posted By: Car_Careguy
Hi, I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla VE model car driven with 155K miles. I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada. So you can imagine the car sits in the external temperature of -2 to 30 C (In Fahrenheit: 28 - 86). Since last 2 years I have been using the Mobil-1 Synthetic 5W-30 engine oil and at times use the Lucas injector cleaner. My fluids are maintained well and tire pressures at 80% capacity of the tire wall metrics (new tires) and checked every 30 days. The average daily driving range comes to about 25 miles with 2 passengers. Since last 1 - 1.5 years I am seeing that my car is burning oil too fast, probably since 45 days after every oil change (at Toyota dealership) it dips to very low to almost none level. I have to put more oil manually. I don't know if this is normal Yesterday when I took some time to look at the engine oil cap I saw that the internal side of cap had too much of oil sludge and literally I had to take the sludge out from my fingers by scratching the stuff inside it. I don't know if this is unusual or very normal and if this is any way related to my car burning more oil. My guess to stop oil burning will any of the Rislone Engine Treatment or similar product you see like Dura Lube in Walmart work? Can anybody throw more comment on above 2 topics and what is my best solution for stopping it to burn more oil?
I would try 10w40, with no additives and a shorter interval. If you are building sludge you are running the oil too long.
 
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Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
switch to a diesel 15w40, this will clean the engine and reduce oil burning you can get this at Walmart http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/15w-40-premium-diesel-engine-oil-378l/6000111967691 the oil will go instantly black after the oil change, this is the additives removing the sludge change at 3000 mile intervals for 3-4 changes
Delo 400 at CBS Parts will be cheaper. Its $16.50 per gallon.
 
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You say the oil level is "very low" to "almost none" after 45 days. What do you base this on? Is the oil at the low end of the "safe range" or is it not even registering on the dip stick? If it's just at the bottom of the safe range that typically means that you are only down 1 quart. Burning through 1 qt every 1,000 miles isn't that bad for a car with 155k. Try 5w-40, replace the PCV valve and just live with it IMO.
 

Car_Careguy

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Originally Posted By: slug_bug
You say the oil level is "very low" to "almost none" after 45 days. What do you base this on? Is the oil at the low end of the "safe range" or is it not even registering on the dip stick? If it's just at the bottom of the safe range that typically means that you are only down 1 quart. Burning through 1 qt every 1,000 miles isn't that bad for a car with 155k. Try 5w-40, replace the PCV valve and just live with it IMO.
The oil barely touches the low end of the tip (bit dark brownish). I looked back at my maintenance bills: here are the stuff that I have replaced - Valve Cover Gaskets back in January of this year. - Transmission chain 2009 - break fluid June 2016 - Front brakes with shoe 2013 - and Rear brakes with shoe January 2016 I never realized that why I can't have complete control of the engine and probably there are "Joe" in the market buying new cars every 3 or 4 years.
 
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Originally Posted By: Car_Careguy
Forgot to mention. This time I did use Mobil-1 10W-30 with Mobil-1 synthetic filter. The burning process slowed a bit but mileage got affected. Will flushing / shampooing of engine help? My guess is sludge the real culprit behind this?
Where are you changing the oil - is it dealership? I think, the dealership typically just uses the bulk oil and filter (without giving you much options to pick particular brand). Asking because I think it is possible that whoever is changing your oil, is using some cheap stuff that is not intended to be used in automotive engine...
 
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If it's truly that bad, might want to try 15W-50 M1. As that oil is viscous enough to prevent excessive consumption. Surprisingly, it has a lower pour point than many other so-called "synthetics". 15W-50 won't carbon up in high heat conditions either. As for any form of "flush", I've never seen one work. And I've certainly never seen a viscosity improving additive significantly improve consumption. However, a more viscous oil, resistant to thermal breakdown is effective in reducing consumption. As mentioned above, you probably have carbon related issues. FYI, nothing dissolves hard carbon. Unless you use caustic oven cleaner.... (not a realistic option) Many of the Prius guys find they consume oil after 150K miles or so. Typically, they switch to a more viscous synthetic when oil consumption gets to about a quart in 1000 miles. Prius guys have tried all sorts of oils, but a preferred one is to use 15W-50 M1.
 
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