4WD
$50 site donor 2024
BiL had to trade his truck when the 4L60e started shifting bad … only got 400k from it … horrible I tell ya
My trans finally blew
- Thread starter gfh77665
- Start date
I've been considering leaving mine at the tranny shop for a shift kit installation because I really want it to make 400k. I bet with the prices of new trucks it's more common than you think that people with work trucks might be doing preventative upgrades to make their truck last longer. Especially if they tow with it.
Btw the tranny places around here don't seem to have the same trend as you've seen.
Bought it at 200K miles. Previous owner "drove it like a car" and I believe him. Bed and body and interior all in near top shape for its age. Told me he drove it from Houston to Illinois and back often. No reason to not believe him. He also told me oil and all other fluids were serviced "regularly" without a miss. Trans fluid at time of purchase looked pretty good.
As I do, I went ahead and had oil change and trans service done anyway right away, just so I know for sure where I am at with it. Trans shop told me they put a "BG trans additive" in at that time. I got 20K miles out of it. I knew any truck with 200K miles is risk, and the low price I paid reflected that. It is noteworthy I have not been easy on it. It is a beater, and my garaged, pristine, low mileage 2019 RAM Classic has avoided a TON of hard miles that the Avalanche has endured the past two years.
Last edited:
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Is the BG additive known to be snake oil? Going forward, I would just stick with OE fluid or similar.
I dunno. The trans shop put it in without telling me first. I doubt BG had anything to do with it.
Wouldn't it be the weakest link on every car going out first?Because they last so long that the weakest link, the tranny has to finally go out?
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
: taps finger on the nose:
For many yes, but not necessarily the majority. Lots of cars have steering and suspension issues (especially with electric power steering), severe rust problems, electrical problems, water pump failure (Ford 3.5), turbo failure, or a combination of all of those things. My girlfriend's Sonata is known for engine rod bearing failure, starter failure (located under the intake manifold!) a number of other less severe things but not really known for transmission failure.
Just checked over my 2005 Silverado the other day, all original steering except for 3/4 ball joints have been replaced in 203k. The only play in the steering is the clunky steering shaft (common on these). Original starter, alternator, rad, engine, transmission, front and rear diff, transfer case.
Major repairs have been water pump, fuel pump sending unit (rusted out), 2 front wheel bearings and an evap purge valve. (If you can call any of these major).
My neighbors 2008 ram 1500 needed an engine, transmission, front diff and starter in 120k. He bought a new Ram because it was the cheapest truck available.
I kept mine in 3rd most of the time for years before I bought it. The hilly terrain it would always be downshifting (4.8 with 3.42 gears and a heavy load in the box) if I left it in overdrive. It runs at 2200 rpm in 3rd on the country roads or 1500 in overdrive. The one time I drove it with nothing in the back (before cab corners and rocker panels) it could be driven in 4th without downshifting all the time.
While I do agree with you on this....
I have 334,600 miles on my 08 Nissan Altima VQ with a CVT. Granted 95%+ open highway miles extremely helpful though.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Which is amazing since you were tardy changing ATF … but flipped it slowly and managed the buildup well …
GM transmissions are by far the cheapest units to rebuild in the industry, People are more apt to have a GM transmission rebuilt because of that.
Used GM trucks are so expensive (here anyway)......That it's more cost effective to have the trans rebuilt. This is especially true for the GMT800.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
And the easiest to build into a performance unit … bolted to a serious GM crate mate … Walla !
Definitely, Aftermarket/Performance support for GM units is unparalleled. There are certain drag race classes that run nothing but Powerglide's & TH400's no matter the engine/body brand. I've even built a Trans Brake TH400 for a Toyota Supra.
I would recommend against that, The 3-4 Friction Drive Splines/Tabs are likely pretty worn by now. Any increase in pressure or changes to the 2-4 band vs 3-4 Clutch dynamic timing can & will have adverse effects to the already worn drive splines.
The band has to be hydraulically knocked off & the 3-4 clutch has to come on during the 2-3 shift. Right now it likely has a small "cut loose" in the clutch timing where it shifts......1st, 2nd, 1st, 3rd. The bold is the very short cut loose where the unit is mechanically in 1st gear.
Changing the Band/3-4 Clutch timing via a shift kit can result in a......1st, 2nd, 4th, 3rd, The bold is a small Bind/Tie-up where the Band & 3-4 Clutch are on at the same time where the unit is mechanically in 4th gear. This will only accelerate 3-4 friction drive spline wear.
Most EVERY shift kit states to increase the Band Release Orifice to .093" from the factory .086".....NEVER do that, Even on a fresh built unit with .040" Band clearance & .020" 3-4 Clutch clearance....Leave it at .086"!!! Now there are cases that you can enlarge the band release orifice but it requires a complete rework of the 3-2 downshift circuit.
The Torrington Bearing under the front carrier (Planet) is notorious for going south at @ 250,000-300,000 miles, GM redesigned the bearing for the 2007 model year.....After the 2003-2006 unit's were updated to the point they made it that far in greater numbers. People like to state GM doesn't care about products past the warranty period, Well.....GM could have easily kept the 1st design bearing without effecting their bottom line one bit.
Thanks for the info. I will just leave it until it fails then. I will add a cooler and change the fluid again in the spring.
I just hate the way it shifts. When you say "cut loose", you mean where it feels like it stopped accelerating for a split second going into 3rd under light throttle? If I'm heavy on the throttle it shifts nice and quick.
What was the maintenance history?
You’re right. Most Ford and Dodge owners don’t care to fix their truck when the drivetrain craps out.
Similar threads
