- Replace Valve Cover Gasket
- Replace Spark Plug Tube Seals
- Replace Spark Plugs
- Replace Spark Plug Wires
- Replace PCV Valve
- Clean EGR Valve and Throttle Body
- Replace Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
- Replace Torque Axis Mount, possibly lower transaxle mount as well
- Replace Brake Fluid
- Replace Power Steering Fluid
- Replace Automatic transmission fluid and filter
- Replace Air Filter
- Replace Fuel Filter
- Check Brakes (apply anti-squeal compound, check rotors for warpage and check calipers due to rubbing noise that has returned)
- Chemically clean cooling system
- Fix window weather-stripping trim
- Fix/Resolder trunk wires
- Top-off A/C Refrigerant
- Check Cruise Control TSB
- Fix Transmission Leak
- Check Shocks, probably need to put new ones on
- Check Exhaust hangers
- Get new tires within the next 10,000 miles
- Change Engine Oil and Filter soon
Car has 93,500 miles, '96 Saturn. Anything else I should add to the list?
Thanks.
My repair list for the Saturn, did I miss anything?
- Thread starter The Critic
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I would think seriously of replacing/rebuilding the calipers and wheel cylinders. Fresh brake fluid has little or no contact with the caliper parts that actually eventually fail.
What about the radiator hoses? You really think the more highly stressed rubber parts are going to outlast the weather stripping?
Hoses seem fine??? No cracks or bubbling.
Serpentine Belt was done 5k ago when tensioner snapped.
All the parts I mentioned have "failed," thus I'm replacing them. Weatherstripping on Right Rear door tore off some how.
I'm trying to replace the most "important" items first that need immediate attention.
I guess I'll put the radiator hoses in the same list as the items that'll have to be replaced eventually, at some point:
- Radiator Hoses
- Thermostat
- Radiator
- Water Pump
- Transmission Valve Body
Mike,
Sounds like you've got alot of fun ahead of you. I enjoy stuff like this. Nothing more stress-relieving than laying underneath a well-maintained car and considering how to over-maintain it next.
A few thoughts:
- if your saturn has a distributor cap and rotor, it could be changed at this mileage.
- for even brake wear, you could remove the calipers and caliper slides. Then clean the slides and get a packet of brake caliper slide grease (don't use regular grease, there is a specific grease for this purpose). Using the correct grease, re-lube then re-install the caliper slides. This ensures that the calipers can always easily self-center over the rotors for better brake longevity/wear.
- Test the resistance on your plug wires before discarding them. If they are up to spec. in your service manual, then run them a little longer. The spark plug wires on my '98 Chev K1500 are still testing within spec for resistance after 180k miles (pretty surprising). Spark plug wires can be expensive and are easy to test with a digitial multi-meter.
- Consider 02 sensors?
- I like replacing wiper blades around once a year. Whenever I do, I'm always amazed at the difference.
- Closely inspect your CV boots for cracks or any indication of deterioration. Catching a bad boot before it fails is better than replacing a joint. Consider cleaning and dressing those boots with silicone spray (do a little research on this first...I thought I read that it was a prudent thing to do).
- Look for little things that are out of order or missing. I'm talking about things like the little caps that go on your brake bleeder nipples, that missing grill screw, the cracked wiper fluid lid, or that pcv grommet that looks like it's stretched and is a little loose. Make a list of these things and get them at the dealer. Less than $20 usually buys an assortment of minor items like that to bring things right up to spec.
One other point. Keep all receipts and documentation of work done in a binder. I have gotten better at doing this over the years. A ridiculously over-maintained car (with receipts to prove) certainly is a nice selling feature that many buyers (like me)look for.
If a receipt is a cash register size, I tape each receipt to a piece of white printer paper, hole punch it and slip it in the binder. Haven't lost a receipt in over five years. I back this up with a little note-book I keep in the car where I document every particular thing I have done to the car, when and at what mileage.
I can't tell you how many times I've thought: "I wonder when I changed the front brake pads...must be while ago now" while waiting for my wife somewhere. Dig up that little book out of the overhead console and look it up.
I guess I'm a little ![[Off Topic!]](/forums/graemlins/offtopic.gif)
here Mike, but I can tell you might be developing into a little bit of a car maintenance fanatic like me. Just thought I'd share a few strategies I've followed.
here Mike, but I can tell you might be developing into a little bit of a car maintenance fanatic like me. Just thought I'd share a few strategies I've followed.Clean Intake Manifold and throttle body.
-Timing Belt
-other belts or check for tightness.
Jim and HH, thanks.
1) This is a DIS, so no cap/rotor.
2) Brake calipers were greased with the correct raybestos grease about 5k ago when they were replaced, not sure why I have this pad rubbing again. Seriously think my rotors warped.
3) Have to replace the wires. Oil ruined the boot on cylinder #1. ![[Frown]](images/icons/frown.gif)
O2 Sensors, CV Joints, and Wiper Blades...will do.
Also add radiator cap replacement.
Thanks.
O2 Sensors, CV Joints, and Wiper Blades...will do.
Also add radiator cap replacement.
Thanks.Plumb in a extra trans filter, plumb in a coolant filter. Put in a power steering filter. ![[Big Grin]](images/icons/grin.gif)
The above is for the BITOG in you. Now for my real suggestion.
Remove the fuel injectors and send them out to be cleaned on an ASNU machine. If you are unfamiliar with this search on ebay or google it. Unless you motor mount/transaxle is cracked, I would hold off on replacing it until the injectors are cleaned.
The above is for the BITOG in you. Now for my real suggestion.
Remove the fuel injectors and send them out to be cleaned on an ASNU machine. If you are unfamiliar with this search on ebay or google it. Unless you motor mount/transaxle is cracked, I would hold off on replacing it until the injectors are cleaned.Any time left to drive it?
Use OEM spark plug wires to avoid annoying check engine light for camshaft position sensor code.
Check rubber air intake hose for cracks near throttle body, and any other stressed points.
quote:Completely agree. Use the OEM plugs. Also, thoroughly clean the spark plug wire contacts on the DIS modules.
Originally posted by oilyriser: Use OEM spark plug wires to avoid annoying check engine light for camshaft position sensor code.
quote:Here's the new list, as I'm not fixing everything. - Torque Axis Mount (OE) - Valve Cover Gasket/Plug Tube seals (OE) - PCV Valve (OE) - Transmission Fluid/Filter Change (FRAM) - Engine Air Filter Change (FRAM) - Fuel Filter Change (FRAM) - New Copper Plugs (NGK) - New ACDelco Plug Wires - Clean Throttle Body and EGR Valve - Replace Brake Fluid (Prestone DOT3) - Replace Power Steering Fluid (Supertech Power Steering Fluid)
Originally posted by ToyotaNSaturn:quote:Completely agree. Use the OEM plugs. Also, thoroughly clean the spark plug wire contacts on the DIS modules.
Originally posted by oilyriser: Use OEM spark plug wires to avoid annoying check engine light for camshaft position sensor code.
Replace engine mount only when the car starts to vibrate annoyingly at idle (not a safety issue).
Replace wheel cylinders only when they start to leak (kind of expensive).
No add on filters needed, trans filter is already an external spin on type.
OEM plug wires as mentioned above.
Just a few things I thought i'd mention, sure I could give you lots more advise if I didn't have to get ready to go to work (at the Saturn dealer). Good luck with everything.
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