This is why I actually think there’s a silver lining for me going to the dealer since they (really, I) have corporate backing. It would reach a point where they can’t F around. All of this being said, I think the dealer largely did right by me by giving me a free caliper when they didn’t have to. But, there was evidence pointing to these issues BEFORE my rear brake job that I think any competent mechanic could have diagnosed or at least had a conversation with me about it.If you did the original work at another shop do you think they would investigate the source of the original uneven wear or just slap on new pads and rotors as well?
I honestly think most shops would go through the exact same repair process, but they wouldn't give you a caliper or change the rotor a second time.
Most places slap on new parts. If the problem is still there they will start diagnosing.
One of my family members had a problem with a brake job. When they took the car back, the mechanic said he doesn't know what happened, and asked for the full price to redo the brake job.
My rear brake fiasco (dealership, I know)
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You’ll thank yourself many times over
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If you’re truly not satisfied with the dealer work ask for a refund of some sort if you paid with a credit card file a dispute with the lender documenting all the recurring issues you’re experiencing since the dealers work. Watch YouTube videos and purchase yourself a brake kit and perform the work yourself. I’ve had good luck with the power stop oe kit if you live in a rust belt area opt for the coated series kit.
I don't know about where you are, but here in NY you don't pad slap the rear if the pads get run down. Or at least I don't. They always end up with seized pistons. The salt brine spray eats the rubber boots then the pistons corrode / swell.
I’m Long Island, so yeah same situation. Im strongly leaning towards them putting the crap pad back on after essentially catching on fire and that’s why it’s scraping the rotor.
Anyway. I’m going to keep monitoring this. Seems like based on the temps I got after a short drive it doesn’t seem like anything is really dragging; haven’t gotten on the highway yet but zero pulsing as well.
Sometimes the act of the piston getting extremely hot and cooling back down again does the trick and frees up the pistons ...
for now.
You think the pistons are stuck on a brand new caliper?
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Not bad it seems they did a lot of work for free.
It’s been my experience with our GM.
I did all 4 pads and rotors.
The rotors resemble BMW when new.
They are grayish white.
After driving 6 miles, I remarked wow all 4 of them only have a strip running down the rotor, not the full width of the swept area. This to me says maybe the pressure isn’t perfectly distributed, how could it be these are floating calipers.
Not ideal but I figured normal as I did the job myself and felt confident the pads were not binding.
After about 100 miles they looked normal with the grayish white worn away and the swept area looking like chrome.
I think they replaced the new rotor 2x but the pads 1x. I would not do that but that’s me. Always both together. There can be something embedded in the pad but not likely.
Oh and I’m not saying pads without rotors can’t be done, I do it when lazy. But I wouldn’t do rotor without pad. I see the rotor as being more valuable.
It’s been my experience with our GM.
I did all 4 pads and rotors.
The rotors resemble BMW when new.
They are grayish white.
After driving 6 miles, I remarked wow all 4 of them only have a strip running down the rotor, not the full width of the swept area. This to me says maybe the pressure isn’t perfectly distributed, how could it be these are floating calipers.
Not ideal but I figured normal as I did the job myself and felt confident the pads were not binding.
After about 100 miles they looked normal with the grayish white worn away and the swept area looking like chrome.
I think they replaced the new rotor 2x but the pads 1x. I would not do that but that’s me. Always both together. There can be something embedded in the pad but not likely.
Oh and I’m not saying pads without rotors can’t be done, I do it when lazy. But I wouldn’t do rotor without pad. I see the rotor as being more valuable.
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Plus being a relatively newer car, the caliper they put on is remanufactured. The old one is from the factory. I’d rather have the old one if not stuck. It shouldn’t be that early. What do I know I’m not there…If you did the original work at another shop do you think they would investigate the source of the original uneven wear or just slap on new pads and rotors as well?
I honestly think most shops would go through the exact same repair process, but they wouldn't give you a caliper or change the rotor a second time.
Most places slap on new parts. If the problem is still there they will start diagnosing.
One of my family members had a problem with a brake job. When they took the car back, the mechanic said he doesn't know what happened, and asked for the full price to redo the brake job.
P.s. your family needs a new mechanic cuz everyone tends to stand behind their work at least 1 year 12k but latterly 2 yr 24k…
Yeah I'd keep checking temps every other drive or every third drive, at least for awhile. Doesn't cost you much and if a caliper is inconsistently hanging up, it might be fine today but act up next week.
I’ll report back one way or another. Hmmm the words Long Island and Dealership don’t usually go well together
Anyhow, my bet is something’s up with the reman caliper or bracket. I feel like a brake pad or slide pin is sticking. They could’ve also put too much grease on the pins causing them to “push back” and wear out the pads.
FWIW, once I had a brake job done, and 100 miles later the steering wheel started to shudder. One of the new rotors showed extra grooves. Turns out the caliper was bad. On the next brake job, I put in a new OEM caliper and after 5K miles there’s been no problems.
I’ve driven back and forth on the LIE after new brakes and never saw the kind of wear you did. If only you could take things apart yourself and see what’s going on
Anyhow, my bet is something’s up with the reman caliper or bracket. I feel like a brake pad or slide pin is sticking. They could’ve also put too much grease on the pins causing them to “push back” and wear out the pads.
FWIW, once I had a brake job done, and 100 miles later the steering wheel started to shudder. One of the new rotors showed extra grooves. Turns out the caliper was bad. On the next brake job, I put in a new OEM caliper and after 5K miles there’s been no problems.
I’ve driven back and forth on the LIE after new brakes and never saw the kind of wear you did. If only you could take things apart yourself and see what’s going on
And in my 17 years of driving and having multiple cars, not once have I had a groove like this develop so quickly. I don’t trust myself to take it apart, at least not yet. And part of me doesn’t want to touch it so I can at least potentially go back to them and show them yet another F up. I’m trying to stop stressing about it until my wheel catches on fire lol
slight little update. Drove around quite a bit today running errands. Based on driving characteristics and brake performance, I am fairly confident nothing is dragging or grinding. The gouge is actually slightly rusted over so my assumption is whatever was there is no longer making contact? Measured wheel temp when I got home, highest reading was 201*F on that, 183 on the other rotor.
Have a good weekend.
Have a good weekend.
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There’s no reason to replace a caliper other than a defect. From practice, my 1998 maxima needed multiple rear calipers as the parking brake forces the piston out and it was a bad design. If brake fluid is maintained imho calipers should last as long as the vehicle. Imagine cars with Brembos if this were not true
I usually always do calipers with pads. The salt brine eats the piston boot and swells up the piston. Then it drags after a pad slap.
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Do you mean rotors, or calipers?
Calipers - he talked about the salt eating the piston boot and then swelling the piston (from rust). So, calipers.
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It may be worth investigating and determining the root cause. Calipers are not designed to be replaced with every brake pad change. Doing things this way would require bleeding the system at each pad replacement and would simply drive the parts and labor up exponentially. Imagine going to a dealer or a muffler shop and having them say calipers are needed at each brake job.