I'm using an old cotton one. It does stay put but will respond to tugs, unlike the new, synthetic ones from, say, Harbor Freight.
HF blankets hook onto the concrete tenaciously.
My oil change set up with ramps
- Thread starter RYDMOTO
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HF blankets hook onto the concrete tenaciously.
I have seen incidents as well. That is why I bought these ramps. If anybody has an incident with these,
they should not be working on cars and have their man card revoked.
I use a good hydraulic jack and jack stands as well as cardboard when a friend brings car I cannot crawl under. Jack and stands use little storage space and are very portable, I can replace cardboard for free when it gets dirty and oily.
The carpet is nice, but probably should only be used if it's not going to end up with sections with a lot of oil in it.
My local hardware store sells window glass. That comes protected in cardboard, and they always have leftover larget sheets of cardboard that are free. If I get oil on it I just throw it out, plenty more is available for free.
My local hardware store sells window glass. That comes protected in cardboard, and they always have leftover larget sheets of cardboard that are free. If I get oil on it I just throw it out, plenty more is available for free.
Do you drain and refill it with the car at that much of an angle? Doesn’t that leave a good bit of the oil oil inside? I’ve always thought you should have the engine as close to level as possible.
I never had to use ramps until I bought my 2012 Mazda3. I made four stepped lumber ramps so I could keep it level. Solid wood ramps are as safe as it gets, but they do block access from the sides.
I never had to use ramps until I bought my 2012 Mazda3. I made four stepped lumber ramps so I could keep it level. Solid wood ramps are as safe as it gets, but they do block access from the sides.
Are you saying you leave the car lifted overnight? Wouldn't that simplify the catalytic converter removal process, if one were so inclined to visit in the middle of the night?
The angle actually drains more oil out as the drain plug faces the rear of the car.
I add the oil up on the ramps so I can start the engine and drive it down and then recheck the dipstick.
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Good point! I am not so worried about that in my neighborhood.
I have 4 Goodyear 6 ton jack stands. I can have my car pretty high up when I use the 4 for exhaust work and such.
Or I use two for when I need the wheels free.
This is just for oil changes or for working under the radiator to a little past the engine.
The other benefit of carpet is insulation during the cold months.The moving blankets would do the same.
Cardboard works too. It's what works best for you.
I have two aluminum floor hydraulic jacks. They tend to tweak whichever way I place them.I in no way would trust
those alone so out come the jack stands for safety.The PITA is going back and forth jacking each side up a certain
amount - you know the drill. I since added a Northern tool steel 3 ton hydraulic jack that is
very solid with high lift. I have a Northern Tool men's toy store next town over.
I just refined what works for each repair application.
Nice ramps, solid looking. Looking at Discount Ramps site 'if' I'm looking at same ones, seeing~ $700, before any discount. If I'm going to spend that on ramps likely go the extra and invest in a Quick Jack Lift when on sale at HF. Just me. Like to have a Quick Jack but can't justify the ROI.
For my purposes, Rhino Maxx ramps have worked well for me for years, no issues. Like that they are nestable for storage too. Just use carboard for drips and an HF folding mech pad to lay on.
For my purposes, Rhino Maxx ramps have worked well for me for years, no issues. Like that they are nestable for storage too. Just use carboard for drips and an HF folding mech pad to lay on.
I buy cheap shower curtains that do not move under the ramps and it allows my creeper to freely move as well.
You conclusion is correct. When I was searching for ramps I passed them by because the lack of height.
When I came across the ones you see, I was like FINALLY! Bought them in 6.4 seconds...lol
Old motor oil stinks to high heaven.....cheap vinyl shower curtains smell worse! (ha-ha)
Absolutely this. BTW, how much were they?
I would be doing the same thing but for the amount of times I crawl under and get back up -
it's just easier with with the carpet. My volvos have the engine belly pan so I use my Milwaukee
3/8" impact to remove the 8 or so screws. I drain the oil and I do something else because I am
anal to the last drop. I then go back under to loosen and drain the filter. I get back up with the
filter cartridge and fill it with oil because I am anal. Then I go back under and screw it in place
and re-attach the belly pan.Getting on and off my creeper is more work in my case.
For all other under car work, the creeper with head rest is a must have.
The other caveat is these ramps might not quite be high enough for a creeper. I never tried it
for reasons noted.
We are all here because we refuse to have anyone else change our oil with who knows what oil
let alone pay for it. My last 4 car oil change saved somewhere in the neighborhood of $300 if not more.
You forgot to replace the oil drain plug!
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face it, all ramps are a inclined plane.. one of those simple tools they probably taught you in science class.My post wasn’t saying that HIS specific ramps were the same as everyone else’s.
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