My latest endeavor.... 2003 C1500 as an orphan!

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So my uncle is clearing house in preparation for a year-long RV tour of the US with my "new" aunt... and I've been "gifted" a 2003 C1500 2wd long bed for $500.... that hasn't run in 2 years+... getting a new starter right now before a 600 mile trek home to Middle of Nowhere, IN. Truck has no rust and only 108k, but essentially unknown history. He's essentially forgot everything else that's happened prior to parking it in 2016. Other than oil change and trans D&F.... anybody have some guidelines on what a LS1 4.8 needs for care and feeding?

I have experience with built LSs, but never a 4.8. I'm planning on 5w/10w30 for oil and MaxLife ATF. I know these LSs will generally run 300k but want to hear some feedback. 2wd, power nothing. It's been 8+ years since I helped my brother keep his built LS2/3 hybrid running and 7 years since my L92 Pontiac G8GT going. Anything special I should watch for? I am replacing the starter and heading out on a 600+ mile trip home. I know it's nothing special but I want to avoid being stranded. I will have to wait til I'm home to do an oil change and filter, and swap 2-3 gallons of MaxLife in.

What are the typical maintenance items on a 2003 C1500 2wd? What do I need to plan for at 108k miles? Thanks!
 
*Cluster stepper motor failures, 03/04 are the worst....Probably already done at it's age/mileage.
*Intermediate steering shaft rattle....Causes no issues other than being irritating.
*Parking brake shoes, GM has updated versions; If the parking brake works.....They have been changed/updated.
*Oil Slugging of the A/C compressor (Denso), Heard as a knocking/rattling noise during acceleration with the A/C on, Replace Compressor & Compressor Belt Tensioner as it takes out the tensioner, Doesn't affect all trucks!!
*Oil Pressure sensor shorting & pegging the oil pressure gauge, Can be changed without pulling the intake.
*Vacuum Leaks "Cold"....Replace intake gaskets with Fel-Pro steel core gaskets.
*Water intrusion in the Knock Sensor wells under the Intake.....Pressure washing the engine is the normal culprit! Will set knock sensor circuit fault codes.
*Water Pump gasket leaks, Many times misdiagnosed as a leaky water pump.
*Radiator leaks at the left tank.....Common at the 150,000-175,000 mile mark.
*Throttle Actuator codes/Reduced Engine Power message/No throttle control.......Broken wire/s at the Throttle Body connector or a bad/loose ground. It's NEVER a component issue!!!
*Cold/Cracked solder joint on the ABS module circuit board, Can be DIY fixed!! Sets a ABS Motor Control Relay fault code.
*2003 was the last year for the rail mounted Vacuum Fuel Pressure Regulator, Make sure it's not leaking!
*Classic GM......Leave you on the side of the road fuel pump failures, With it sitting for 2 years.....Failure is most likely eminent.

*Dropping the trans pan (4L60E) requires dropping the Exhaust Y-pipe.
*'03 will have a drain plug, But....It will be stuck & it has a super short hex. You need a GOOD chrome 15mm socket & a stout Impact to get it out.....Replace with a OE Oil Pan Drain bolt for the same truck.

*The exhaust manifold bolts break off from manifold expansion/retraction, This affects trucks that Tow or are worked hard more often than Mall Crawlers.
It's a risky proposition to try & pull the existing bolts after 100,000 miles & 15+ years of service, I recommend swapping in Chromoly ARP replacements when these trucks were new....Most didn't listen!

*DO NOT bump or otherwise man handle the Heater Core plastic disconnects....You risk cracking them & will blow off at the most inopportune time.

* It takes Dexcool & is the hands down best coolant for GMT800 trucks!

*OE GM parts are dirt cheap for this platform.....No reason to run aftermarket.
 
Gee Cline... if I wasn't getting it essentially for a song... you've already talked me out of owning one!
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I know it sound bad.....I've seen every failure imaginable on GMT800 trucks. They're really good but have quarks. Not any one truck will experience ALL these failures.
 
What you really want to do is bring that truck up here and I'll give you $600 for it
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Congratulations on the new truck, I love that body style. Only issue we really had with ours was the gauge cluster failing, as noted by clinebarger. But ours was the 5.3.
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Gee Cline... if I wasn't getting it essentially for a song... you've already talked me out of owning one!
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Originally Posted by clinebarger
I know it sound bad.....I've seen every failure imaginable on GMT800 trucks. They're really good but have quarks. Not any one truck will experience ALL these failures.
I hate to hijack, but, how many of these failures would apply to an LQ4 6.0 (in an '06 3500 van)? Thinking about retiring my GMC 6.2.
 
They're a dood truck but the [censored] rear frame from the tank back is too thin and made of some sort of hardened steel that simply wastes away in road salt. Check for that if it's been in salt. The boxes also love to rust away especially over wheel wells. Change that Dexcool now if you don't know it's age, under 5 yr it's ok. Fuel pumps on GMs are 💩. If it's OEM and the fuel gauge goes weird just buy a new pump, known problem with newer gas. 5.3 is great engine good for 200k if you change the coolant which no one does. Same with tranny. Not bad if you change fluid which no one does.... brakes are WIMPY but severely easy to work on , they're the size of a Honda civic🤨. Watch the gas tank straps for signs of rust out and replace if needed. Exhaust is easy to work on just take care not to snap off studs on manifold though ar least 2 of em can be bolted. Brake lines and fuel lines like to rot out, the usual Not a bad truck if you take care of it and parts are pretty cheap from anybody but Chevy. I grab most of mine off Amazon/ .Ebay
 
Hasnt Run in 2 yrs..

Check air filter box for mouse nests.
Do test drive to assure brakes working properly, feel each wheel for sticking brakes (hotter than normal).
Check tires for dry rot, bulges, flat spots.

The rest is a gamble whether its chevy/ford/toyota.. anything can happen so just pack water, some food and some daisy duke shorts in case you need to thumb.
 
Check / replace as needed ;

Rubber products , tires , belts , hoses , wiper blades

All fluids , P/S , brake , coolant ( as some one mentioned ) , refrigerant , ATF , engine oil / filter ,

Check tstat .

After dark , start the engine , raise the hood & look for sparks arcing from plugs , coil & plug wires .

That should get you started .
 
The GMT800 platform is good. We run them up to well over 300K at work and just fix whatever breaks because the parts are so cheap and plentiful. Had a driver wreck one with over 500K on it...we repaired it (door, fender, front suspension). Common issues for the platform are pretty well covered above, but the real issue is it has been sitting for 3 years. Take a good look at the tires and try to drive it a little before setting out on your trip. You want to do the shakedown while you are close to parts stores and help, not in the middle of nowhere.

Any idea why it has been sitting? I can't imagine parking a 100K mile truck for 3 years just because of a starter, but maybe some people do that.
 
Yes I'd expect there to be rodent damage. Nests in the intake, heater, chewed wires and hoses.
 
Originally Posted by 01rangerxl
Any idea why it has been sitting? I can't imagine parking a 100K mile truck for 3 years just because of a starter, but maybe some people do that.


The starter didn't actually go out until we just tried to start it. He parked it because he picked up an 05 F150 Supercrew and then got a truck from work that he could drive any time. I'm sure the tires will need replaced at some point, but the truck was in the shade and has been a NC/VA truck it's whole life. Interior is a little crappy and manual windows, but for a yard work/move crap truck it should do just fine. I'll try to get some pics tonight.
 
That won't happen. It gets no more maintenance budget than my Subarus; if it exceeds that I'm selling, trading, or scrapping it. I've made it 42 years without personally owning a truck, I'm pretty sure I can make it the rest without one as well.
 
Hey clinebarger- quick question. The shop swapped the starter and now there is a metallic clanking noise as the engine runs. The shop thinks it's a cracked flywheel and wants to pull the trans to check; I watched some YouTube videos and it appears the inspection plate is easily bent into the path of the bolts and is likely the root cause of the noise. Does this seem possible? There was no noise before the starter swap and I sure don't want to pay for an R&R if it's just a bent inspection plate. I'd take the dang thing out before paying them to check for a "possible" cracked flywheel!! Thanks!
 
No inspection plate/cover on LSx/4L60E per se. There are 2 plastic dust shields, One on each side of the engine bolted to the oil pan. The right one is wrapped around the nose cone of the starter......Not a normal source of noises/issues.

Then 2 "Pop-in" sheet metal plugs on the bottom of the bellhousing, Never seen any issues with these.

My first guess would be the Bendix Gear rubbing on the Flexplate, Not all that uncommon with cheap offshore replacement starters.

Even though the 2001 & up LSx dished flexplates are not as stout as '98-'00 versions.....They are is no way prone to cracking like the the Gen 1 & 2 small block Chevys.
In fact the few cracked flexplates I've seen on stock LSx engines were ALL flat flexplates found on 6.0L backed by 4L80E's
 
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