My EEK has died... HELP!!!

[DJStillman]

1991 Plymouth Acclaim, 134,000 miles. After a 60 mile interstate drive, get into the city, and reached a traffic light. Go to start moving again, get to 20-25mph, then the car just dies. I was kinda low on gas (1/8 tank), so I thought I had just run out. Since I have never run out on this car, I am not familiar with how it behaves.

So, I managed to coast into the gas station at the intersection, and put a little over 4 gallons of gas in, and then try to start it. Weird thing is, the gas gauge does not seem to register what I had just put in. So, I give it a few minutes, and try again. At this point, the gauge has registered, and I try again. Still not starting, I think I have flooded the car (is that even possible with a TBI system?). So, I give it another 5 minutes, and try again. Still getting nothing, I remember that I can access the SBEC Computer with the key twists. So, I get a code 11, and a code 12. End up getting towed home (65 miles).

Code 11 reads: No Distributor reference signal detected during engine cranking. Check the circuit between the distributor and the SMEC/SBEC.

Code 12 reads: Problem with stand-by memory circuit. Direct battery input to controller disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-ons.

The only problem that I had been aware of was the alternator doing it's occasional squeaking thing. So, at this point, that is what I suspect. I will be taking the alternator off and taking it to be tested.

Any other suggestions? Where should I start? The car has had a tuneup within the last 10,000 miles, has been running really well. The only recent change is that is has been seeing a lot more highway miles recently since I got it. Please help!!

 

[Ferb]

I had a somewhat similar problem in my old '85 Ford Tempo. The starting would be intermittant and eventually stopped lighting off at all.

I changed the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter. Checked the distributor, etc. But it would sometimes just not start.

One day it was especially bad, so i took it in. Turns out the ignition coil was arcing to ground, which eventually killed the electronic control module and the stator for the distributor sensor.

I never pulled codes, so i couldn't check for similarities there, but the car acted like it didn't know when to fire the spark. Maybe the same for you?

Hope this helps even a little.

ferb!

 

[The_Jeff]

Chryslers of that age have an "auto-shutdown relay" which runs quite a bit of ignition stuff. A swap with the A/C or fan relay (can't remember, maybe both) can test.

Another thing is a little plastic shutter in the distributor (2.5) detatches itself.

Re the alt squeaking, sometimes the bushings holding it in wear out, misaligning the belt.

If you search, you'll find a good site that covers ALL moPARs.

 

[burnbomber]

Code 11 is the failure of the crankshaft angle sensor, and code 12 is the battery disconnect. My Caravan always gives a code 12 and completion code 55 every time I do the key on-off test.

Your crankshaft position sensor has given up the ghost. Not a big time part, nor labor intensive to replace. Unfortunately, I don't have an Acclaim service manual, nor ever owned an Acclaim, so I couldn't tell you where it sits on your engine. DO you have a traditional distributor, or not? If you have a distributor, it sits inside. On coil pack engines, it bolts to an engine face and reads a rotating trigger on a cam or gear inside the engine.

 

[DJStillman]

Well, today is payday, so I finally decided to check things out. Took off the distributor cap, cranked the engine. The rotor did not move at all, and the timing belt, while still there, did not move 1 millimeter, and the drive belts do move.

Does this mean it is the timing belt?

So, I just went to Autozone, got timing belt and idler tensioner. Is that all I need?

I have read tons about the belt change. Anything else I should know? Any useful hints or tips?

I guess tomorrow, in spite of the cold, I will be replacing my timing belt...

Fun. fun, fun...

 

[DJStillman]

Well, got everything apart today, and saw that it was the timing belt, as there was a 5.5 inch flat spot on the belt around the crank cog.

So, took the belt off, along with the engine mount, the A/C compressor, and the compressor bracket.

Then, I get the crank cog little round mark lined up with the line cut into the edge of the intermediate cog, made sure the timing mark in the bellhousing was at 0, made sure the rotor was roughly at the cylinder 1 position, and then put the ovaloid hole in the cam cog pointing up, and lined up the two arror notches on the 90 and 270 degree positions with the bearing separation marks.

So, I install the new belt, and the new tensioner, and get things all tightened up. Then, using a socket and ratchet, I turn the crank two full revolutions, and everything seems alright.

So, I button everything back up, and crank it up. Sounds good, and it runs smooth and quiet. All except that now the alternator pulley is rubbing up against the A/C tensioner pulley. So, needing to get to work, I pull the tensioner off, and get going.

Unfortunately, after I pull out of the driveway, the car kinda starts chugging, and seems terribly weak. So, I give it some more gas, and while it does move, it seems to get weaker and weaker. So, I get the car back into the driveway.

So, where did I go wrong? Valve timing, ignition timing, or did I end up at TDC on the exhaust stroke? How can I find out? PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

 

[The_Jeff]

All I can say is 2.5 timing belts don't need to be that tight-- chrysler makes a tool that is a wrench which by its own weight tightens the belt tensioner sufficiently against the belt.

Perhaps google "EEK timing belt replacement" as there are some good sites out there...