Must decide! M1 0w-40 or 5w-40 for Dad's 2000 MB I-6.

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Headline says it all, Dad just got this car and I have not yet to check it out. The car has like 60k, and oil appears clean. With 3000 miles left as per OB oci computer, no consumption is apparent. This car got M1 0w-40 at dealer/OB oci intervals, nothing more, as it was a leased car. Should I switch him to 5w-40 for 1/year drains? M1 SUV is a better oil, I believe based on HT/HS, Noack is unknown. I want to switch, any opinions to the contrary? The D1/SUV could clean-up from those extended drains.
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I think the 5W/40 Delvac is a better choice. I doubt it will clean up much better than the M1 already has. Schould be pretty clean.
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I would like to know why others think Delvac 1 is a better choice. Mobil 1 0-40 is what the factory uses for MB and Porche. It is an oil designed just for Europian Engines and meets all the specs. I think it is an excellent oil even though it is known to thin out some. Why the Delvac1? It is designed for diesels I think?
It has loads of Magnesium which other Mobil 1 products don't have. It has no Moly which all other Mobil 1 products have. I guess I just don't understand why someone would use this oil over the 0-40 mobil 1.
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I would be inclined to stay with the M1 0W-40.

Warranty may not be an issue at this point, but it has all the appropriate MB spec. approvals.

I think the 0W-40 is better than many are giving it credit for. You don't care, but it also has the API starburst.
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quote:

Originally posted by TR3-2001SE:
I would like to know why others think Delvac 1 is a better choice. Mobil 1 0-40 is what the factory uses for MB and Porche. It is an oil designed just for Europian Engines and meets all the specs. I think it is an excellent oil even though it is known to thin out some. Why the Delvac1? It is designed for diesels I think?
It has loads of Magnesium which other Mobil 1 products don't have. It has no Moly which all other Mobil 1 products have. I guess I just don't understand why someone would use this oil over the 0-40 mobil 1.
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I guess people just don't trust Exxon/Mobil or the manufacturer, because of CAFE standards and other conspiracy theories.

Mobil Truck/SUV and Euro Formula are purely marketing I guess.

Seriously the 0W-40 gets whacked a lot here, but I think it has a lot of merits.
 
The dilemma persists. A tough choice, but as it is now, I am planning on a 6 month run of Delvac 1300 15w-40 for summer, and to get a "fresh start" before attempting an extended drain. I suspect the OB oci tends not to be too conservative, and the previous runs on M1 0w-40 were long enough to leave deposits, especially if the previous owner did not run right in for a change when the light came on. I want to either use the on-board system or do 1x yearly changes, Dad lives to far away for me to be involved much, except for advice. The most encouraging thing is that the oil level was good. Used car lots tend not to even open the hood on their cars, so I assume the engine is doing ok on it's own. Ok, here is the kicker, I can give him some GC with the MB specs and better overall performance, but I'd have to supply him in the future. He has a nice-enough car for me to give up some GC, ****, 7.5 quarts is a lot to part with though.
 
It sounds like you only suspect the possibilty of deposits based on a history you're unsure of. Is this correct? If that's the case, I'd definitely stick with full syn.

If it were my dad, I'd tell him to continue using the OB OCI (that feature alone would be worth it if he's long-distance) & the 0W-40. You could try to convice him to use a gasoline/diesel-approved oil, but a LOT of folks may tell him that he's using the "wrong" oil & it may be confusing for him.
 
I'd have him run the Redline 5w-30 from Advance Auto, with a fixed 10,000-12,000 mile change interval. This engine holds 7.9 quarts of oil, so the Redline should barely be stressed.

The highly friction modified Redline will provide better subjective engine performance, lower oil temps and higher fuel efficiency than running a 5w-40 diesel oil.

I wouldn't run a 0w-40 or 5w-50 in ANY high performance engine. You want a narrow range synthetic with little or no polymeric thickener. It is these polymers that lead to high temp deposits on the pistons and valve stem seals ....

If this is a MY 2000, it probably has the 3.2L, 18 valve, V-6 engine and not the old, 3.0L, straight six....
 
Of the 5w-40's, Amsoil/Redline.
M1 0w-40 is fine but RL's 5w/10w-30 should be better.

[ April 13, 2004, 07:26 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
So is Redline a good extended service oil like M1 0w-40? I thought Redline had a lower TBN and was really for performance engines/applications associated with timely oil change intervals. Is this not correct? If everything being equal, which would you all choose for an extended service interval between RL, M1, GC, and Amsoil?
 
TS, thanks for the tips. I am trying to stick with an easy OTC oil for him. I can't believe I am considering the 0w-40, what the manual basicly says, AFTER all the time at BitOG. I will have to pull UOAs, that is the most reliable indicator. I am surprised there are no substitute oils recommended here like Syntec 10w-40 or a 15w-40. I will just have to check for deposits and clarity myself and have both oils handy to give him. I expected this to be a slam-dunk for D1.
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