what about 10w40 or DMO 15w40?
Multigrade yes or no in Lawn mower?
- Thread starter y2k345
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My father had an older mower which was as much a fogger as a mower. He switched over to a High Mileage 10w30 and that fixed his fogging issue.
He now has a new Toro and I think he is still using the High Mileage oil. He liked it that much.
I was confused with my new mower. It is a Yard Machines with a MIC OHV engine possibly a Honda licensed engine? A sticker on the side says 10W-30, but it sure runs smoother on the straight 30W than the multivis. The last fill was some Pennzoil 30W air cooled engine oil. And I'm sticking with it.
Use whatever you have. Multigrades might consume a bit more than straight 30W or synthetics, but no big deal... the key to longevity is to constantly check the oil level and change it on a regular basis. They will run WAY longer than you want them to with simple maintenance.
I have a Kawasaki single cylinder 17hp on my JD lawn tractor. On dino 10w-30 is burns oil every time I mow needing frequent top offs. JD recommends 10w-30 but Kawasaki spec it for 30w.
On Pennzoil HD30 it does not burn a drop all season. Pennzoil hd30 is the best stuff I have ever used in a air cooled engine.
Hmmm, I bought a $100 Murray with a 4.5 hp Briggs and Stratton back in 2003 from Wal-Mart or somewhere and it came with a straight 30 weight recommendation and had the "excessive consumption" warning. I didn't change the oil until 2007. It had never dropped. I believe I replaced it with some older SJ Pennzsoil Synth 10W30. It did, indeed use oil after that. Hmmm, maybe some M1 0W40 for the next fill?
Honestly, I want the mower to die so I can have justification for a nice near rear bagger. But it cranks right up on the first pull every dang time.
My 9-year old Craftsman recommends SAE 30 and says that 5w30 can be used if straight 30 is not available, but to check the oil more often due to consumption with the multigrade.
I've used both, with no problems.
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