i am confused about which style of belt to purchase for my ariens 10-28 rider mower . amazon lists two belts with the proper part number for my machine.one is a stens oem belt and is 30 dollars.the other belt is also a stens but is described as a raw edge belt.this belt is 42 dollars.i have never heard of a raw edge belt.i am very concerned abut slippage.i would appreciate any opinions about which belt would best serve me.money difference does not matter.thx.
mower belts
- Thread starter james1950
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I love Amazon but I don't trust their application guide at all.
Your best bet is to ALWAYS get the correct part number straight from the manufacturer then buy it from Amazon or Rock Auto or whoever.
Your best bet is to ALWAYS get the correct part number straight from the manufacturer then buy it from Amazon or Rock Auto or whoever.
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
I love Amazon but I don't trust their application guide at all.
Your best bet is to ALWAYS get the correct part number straight from the manufacturer then buy it from Amazon or Rock Auto or whoever.
+1.
As for the raw edge belt, it'll allow superior power transfer and improved slip resistance.
I love Amazon but I don't trust their application guide at all.
Your best bet is to ALWAYS get the correct part number straight from the manufacturer then buy it from Amazon or Rock Auto or whoever.
+1.
As for the raw edge belt, it'll allow superior power transfer and improved slip resistance.
Most belts are rubber impregnated cloth covered. It offers good traction and long life.
A raw edge belt has the tapered edges with exposed rubber. it has better grip. Needs a better rubber to last.
If OE was cloth covered than that will transmit enough power if the idler and springs are good. Most mowers these days use electric blade clutches. They do wear out and usually transmit less torque than the belt can handle. Check yours.
Rod
A raw edge belt has the tapered edges with exposed rubber. it has better grip. Needs a better rubber to last.
If OE was cloth covered than that will transmit enough power if the idler and springs are good. Most mowers these days use electric blade clutches. They do wear out and usually transmit less torque than the belt can handle. Check yours.
Rod
Originally Posted By: james1950
i am confused as to which belt is of better quality.
In this instance, the belt quality is relative to its intended use. My workplace commercial mowers come with covered belts. The one time I tried a raw edge in order to keep going, it lasted a pitiful few days.
OPE belts are designed for all the turns/twists/shocks associated with mower decks.
As already stated, investigate to find out what your OEM belt was and use that style.
If you give us more info, we might be able to assist finding an answer for you. Go to some of the small equipment parts sites and plug your info in to see what they show. My guess is a covered belt, but I know nothing about your mower.
What does this site show:
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/equipment/list/lawn-mower/belts/Exact-Replacement-Belts/254%3aARIENS
Good Luck.
i am confused as to which belt is of better quality.
In this instance, the belt quality is relative to its intended use. My workplace commercial mowers come with covered belts. The one time I tried a raw edge in order to keep going, it lasted a pitiful few days.
OPE belts are designed for all the turns/twists/shocks associated with mower decks.
As already stated, investigate to find out what your OEM belt was and use that style.
If you give us more info, we might be able to assist finding an answer for you. Go to some of the small equipment parts sites and plug your info in to see what they show. My guess is a covered belt, but I know nothing about your mower.
What does this site show:
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/equipment/list/lawn-mower/belts/Exact-Replacement-Belts/254%3aARIENS
Good Luck.
I've had the best luck with OEM replacements in terms of long life.
Thing with belts is, if you're going through a lot of them, it's probably not a belt problem. Pretty much never is.
Worn idlers, tensioners, spindles, bent or misaligned sheaves are the cause in most instances.
Letting the cutting deck bounce around on the ground (on a machine not intended for this) prematurely kills deck drive belts due to the constant sheave movement in relation to themselves.
Thing with belts is, if you're going through a lot of them, it's probably not a belt problem. Pretty much never is.
Worn idlers, tensioners, spindles, bent or misaligned sheaves are the cause in most instances.
Letting the cutting deck bounce around on the ground (on a machine not intended for this) prematurely kills deck drive belts due to the constant sheave movement in relation to themselves.
One very common cause of belt failure is overheating. This can be due to loads, but also due to bearing friction heating up the pulleys and idlers, and therefore heating the belt.
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