Moving back to 5w-20

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Mainly because I scored a bunch of that Castrol Edge 5w-20 with Ti at the AZ sale. I've been running my 04 Accord K24 on 5w-30 for quite a while now, but in goes 5 qts. of the golden Castrol elixer! And "Oh, the Inhumanity!!!" Clacking valves, slapping pistons, screeching of bearings, I'll probably lose 5 mpg due to all the metal to metal contact going on in there!!! Once the oil heated up, I looked under the car to see the cascade of oil oozing past all my seals and gaskets! And you know... nothing... nothing at all was different. My butt dyno must be broken because for all the world the car drives and sounds exactly like it did on the 5w-30! So, either I'm imagining things about how 5w-30 makes my car quieter and smoother or the Castrol 5w-20 is one mighty fine oil! I think I've solved the thick vs. thin argument for myself, I'm gonna buy whatever's on sale! It's a good feeling to know it only cost me $5 to fill the pan with a top tier synthetic!!!
 

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I'm not sure. I also have a 2013 accord and it uses 0w-20. How do you tell if a vehicle is "back-specked"? Guess I've never much understood the nuance between 0w vs 5w on these oils. I caught a sale on M1 5w20 a while back and figured it would run fine in the 2013 no?
 

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No, I was being facetious based on all the stomping that goes on around here about thick vs. thin. But I really thought I'd notice SOME difference. But I did not!
 
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Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
I believe that Honda engine was always spec'ed for 5W20. It was not back-spec'ed like Toyota.
Google "Honda oil chart" his engine was spec'd for 5w but is acceptable to use 0w back to '03
 
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I'd rather use 0w-20 than 5w-20. The only difference will be a little bit better oil flow(that's what you want). I replaced 0w-30 with 0-20 in my V6 Camry this fall and the engine seems to be quieter than ever. I think 0w-20 oil is a better product than 5w-20 oil but don't want to start a brouhaha about nothing. There is a lot of picking *%$# with the chickens on this forum.
 
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When a car company specs 5W20 without mentioning synthetic then it is conventional, if you like synthetic then 0W20 is better than 5W20. Honda specs 0W20 for newer engines so you should not use conventional 5W20 but synthetic 5W20 is okay(but not as good as 0W20). If the car is still under warranty then you should use either full-syn or syn-blend 0W20.
 
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Originally Posted By: Scout1
And "Oh, the Inhumanity!!!" Clacking valves, slapping pistons, screeching of bearings, I'll probably lose 5 mpg due to all the metal to metal contact going on in there!!!
Which oil was causing all that engine noise?
 
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Originally Posted By: LotI
Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
I believe that Honda engine was always spec'ed for 5W20. It was not back-spec'ed like Toyota.
Google "Honda oil chart" his engine was spec'd for 5w but is acceptable to use 0w back to '03
Oh no! My 2001 Accord isn't back specced to 0W20 and I have Subaru 0W20 in there now. I'd better go change it tonight.
 
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Originally Posted By: wemay
0w20 is 'better' than 5w20? Really?
To achieve the 0W rating it has better base stock (more group IV PAO) than 5W. Whenever I'm buying any synthetic brand I always pick 0W if it's the same or not much higher price than 5W. The only exception is for Honda S2000 I would pick 10W30 if I was buying conventional. And M1 TDT 5W40 is another exception, it isn't better than M1 0W40 but it has some applications that M1 0W40 isn't, such as motorcycle engines.
 
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I've heard this before but have never seen any documented proof of more grp IV in 0w20. Not saying it isnt the case, just haven't seen it.
 
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Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: wemay
0w20 is 'better' than 5w20? Really?
To achieve the 0W rating it has better base stock (more group IV PAO)
Now now now dont say such rubbish things or they'll let the BITOG dogs out on you. Read the Penrite 0w40 thread so you know. I use Royal Purple HPS because of the PAO base and great add pack so I agree with you.
 

Scout1

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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Scout1
And "Oh, the Inhumanity!!!" Clacking valves, slapping pistons, screeching of bearings, I'll probably lose 5 mpg due to all the metal to metal contact going on in there!!!
Which oil was causing all that engine noise?
Would have to be straight kerosene to make all that noise I think! crazy
 
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Originally Posted By: wemay
I've heard this before but have never seen any documented proof of more grp IV in 0w20. Not saying it isnt the case, just haven't seen it.
Remember Honda OEM oil is a synthetic blend similar to Motorcraft and Trop Artic.
 
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Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: wemay
0w20 is 'better' than 5w20? Really?
To achieve the 0W rating it has better base stock (more group IV PAO) than 5W. Whenever I'm buying any synthetic brand I always pick 0W if it's the same or not much higher price than 5W.
Not quite sure that I agree with your philosophy...if my vehicle called for a 20, and my climate was such that a 5W was appropriate (I don't NEED 0W), I'd take the 5W every time. Look at these for an e.g. http://www.pennzoil.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Pennzoil-Ultra-Platinum-0W-20-SN-GF-5-en-TDS.pdf http://www.pennzoil.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Pennzoil-Ultra-Platinum-5W-20-SN-GF-5-en-TDS.pdf the 0W has quite a lot higher NOACK, and it's density is a little lower, indicating that the 0W uses a somewhat lighter basestock, and more VII (of any description, good, bad, or otherwise). Likely less deposits, better viscosity retention with the 5W.
 
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Good old SAE 20 is getting hard to find. What would the conspiracy theorists say? If people find out how good it is the motor oil business will never be the same again. What if there was some truth to that?
 
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