Motul 300V Racing oil vs Motul normal/road oil

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Originally Posted By: dparm
Resurrecting this.

Motul sells many different versions of 300V and 8100. It's really hard to find what the differences are. Can anyone shed some light?


Motul 8100 X-Lite 0W-30
100 Vis - 11.9
40 Vis - 66.5
VI - 177
TBN - 11.2
Flash - 232

Motul 8100 Eco-Clean 5W-30
100 Vis - 10.1
40 Vis - 56.7
VI - 167
TBN - 4.2
Flash - 232

Motul 8100 X-Max 5W-30
100 Vis - 12
40 Vis - 73
VI - 161
TBN - 10.9
Flash - 232

Motul 8100 Eco-Energy 5W-30
100 Vis - 9.9
40 Vis - 57.7
VI - 159
TBN - 10.3
Flash - 226

Motul 300V 5W-30
100 Vis - 11
40 Vis - 65
VI - 162
TBN - 11.3
Flash - 218
HTHS - 3.61
 
Good info, but I guess I'm not proficient enough to really decode and assign each of those oils to a "suggested use". I did read the Eco-Clean complies to some Euro emissions codes or something.

I snagged the 10L of 300V for $133 shipped to my door so I'm happy.
 
Nice summary of the 30wts unfortunately you've only provided the HTHS vis for the 300V.

One very common but in correct assumption is that the kinematic 100C vis spec' correlates directly with the typical operating viscosity of an oil; it frequently does not. It is the HTHS vis spec that correlates well with typical operating viscosity temps (80C and up) despite the fact it is measured at 150C. High ester content oils like 300V tend to have a high HTHS vis relative to their 100C k'vis spec. On the other hand, high VI oils tend to have a low HTHS vis relative to their 100C k'vis spec's.

The 8100 X-Lite 0W-30 has a 100C vis of 11.9 cSt and VI of 177 vs 11.0 cSt and VI of 162 for the 300V 5W-30. The 300V has a HTHS vis of 3.61 cP. You haven't provided the HTHS vis for the 8100 X-Lite and I haven't tried to find it but I know it's considerably lower than the 300V value. I'll take an educated guess that it's no higher than 3.2 cP.

Consiquently the 300V will have a noticeably higher operating viscosity as determined by oil pressure despite it's lower 100C vis spec'.

If you want to compare the operating viscosities of an oil (without testing them yourself), look past the 100C vis spec' to the HTHS vis spec'; that's the figure you want to know.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Nice summary of the 30wts unfortunately you've only provided the HTHS vis for the 300V.

It is the HTHS vis spec that correlates well with typical operating viscosity temps (80C and up) despite the fact it is measured at 150C. High ester content oils like 300V tend to have a high HTHS vis relative to their 100C k'vis spec. On the other hand, high VI oils tend to have a low HTHS vis relative to their 100C k'vis spec's.

The 8100 X-Lite 0W-30 has a 100C vis of 11.9 cSt and VI of 177 vs 11.0 cSt and VI of 162 for the 300V 5W-30. The 300V has a HTHS vis of 3.61 cP. You haven't provided the HTHS vis for the 8100 X-Lite and I haven't tried to find it but I know it's considerably lower than the 300V value. I'll take an educated guess that it's no higher than 3.2 cP.


I provided all the info I could readily find. HTHS was only provided for 300V. I decided against guessing.
 
Hi All, instead of creating a new topic this topic suits my query perfectly

i'm currently using the 10w-40 300V chrono in my weekend car which is purely for the street (no track) - oci's are @ 3125 mi/5000kms which takes me between 6-8 mths to rack up

from the feedback from other manufacturers i read in this thread some suggest because of the race nature of this oil - that it should be changed every 3-4 months

what i'd like to know is am i doing my car more harm than good by using 300v in my application 5000km/6-8 months?

i enjoy driving it hard but not harshly and assumed 300V was the best money could by for the best protection but am now having second thoughts

i understand motul say its fine for street use but is it still the absolute best for street use oci's instead of race track oci's?

car in question is a R34 skyline 6cyl 2.5L with 80,000kms
 
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You probably don't need to be changing it so often. Pay for an oil analysis and I'm fairly confident it will not need to be changed at 5000km.
 
thanks for that dpharm - my concern is primarily with the time interval rather than the distance interval - as i only drive the car once or twice a week - should i be at all concerned that the oil could possibly break down during the 6-8 mths its in the car?
 
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300v is primarily used in motorsport, but you could use it in your application, I'd have a UOA done to verify. Why not use something like Motul's 8100 X-Cess 5w40? It's geared toward street use, and would likely have more/better detergents than the 300v, plus is designed to be used longer. I think with you not driving frequently, though 300v still would be fine. Are your trips short stop and go, or are they longer?
 
thanks for that nolesfan - i will be looking to have a UOA performed soon as i think that will be the best way to gauge the longevity of the 300v. i've always just though i was getting a superior product for my motor putting in the 300v

i initially thought it would have been fine because the 300v comes in the 'chrono 10w40' and then the motorsport 15-50 among others which i thought was geared more for race use

i have read somewhere that these oils are tested to 50,000kms (continuous use/not realistic) - however i'm still not so sure on having this oil in the car for 6-8 mths

being a weekend car the trips are always a decent length minimum of 10km/6 miles so operating temp is always reached and traffic is never an issue as i usually take it out after hours or on the weekend - it is driven hard once its warmed up so peace of mind was why i went with the 300v
 
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My only concern with using a very high ester content oil for long time periods without steady use is that esters tend to be hygroscopic (attract water/moisture).

That, combined with the combustion byproducts and resultant acids from your short trips when the car IS used (sorry, but 10K IS a VERY short trip, NO MATTER how hot the ambient temps may be), could be a problem.

Given the high TBN of 300V, the acids would probably be neutralized, but you would need MUCH longer trips (100K or better) at FULL/high oil temps in order to get rid of whatever moisture the esters would cause to accumulate in the sump during the engine's inactivity, if it were ONLY used infrequently, or on weekends.

Hopefully, others MUCH more knowledgeable than I (especially the many brilliant tribologists on here) will chime in to concur with, or refute the above.
 
much appreciated advice mate - exactly what i was wanting to know - will find out more when i come round to doing a uoa on it as i've had the same oil in the car for the last 4 oci's @ 3125mi over 3 years
 
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I ran 300V in my car multiple times. It was a short-tripper that sat for a week or two at a time without being driven, got out on the track, etc. Here it is after 5000 miles (8000km). TAN was higher than TBN, but no ill effects that we could see. Probably could've run it longer.


300V_5w30_5k.jpg
 
great thanks for that dparm - fairly similar use to my Skyline running 10w-40 300v

even thought the TBN is high, what are some possible consequences of having a high TAN (Total Acid Number is that the right desc.?)

also how long did you have the oil in the car between your oci? and was it changed prior/after track use? or did was the oil the same

thanks again
 
As you can see, that oil was in for 5,150 miles, which is just over 8,000 km. I changed it when the sample was taken. And no, I did not change it immediately after the track day....just left it in and kept driving.

High TAN means the oil is oxidizing or getting contaminated, and the viscosity is changing. High TAN leads to corrosive wear.
 
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