Motor oil change intervals on a non daily driver

[fdcg27]

I doubt that the much thicker (higher HTHS) Rotella is a better choice than either GC or M1 0W-40.
With either M1 or GC, you have the confidence that the oils meet some very demanding manufacturer's certs.
This is not true for T6 in any gas engine.
I'd UOA the GC and see how it looks.
It does have a little lower HTHS than M1 0W-40, and as someone posted above, using a thicker oil than what the engine really needs only robs it of power.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: nottheoilguy
Can anyone post a link where I could more info on oil lifespan (shelf life) while in the engine?

Should I do a UOA on the current oil I have in the car because it's almost been a year and 2,000 miles?


Any of the major oil manufacturers sites, as well as your owners manual has this information in it.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: nottheoilguy
It gets driven and brought up to temperature pretty regularly at most maybe it will sit for 4-6 weeks, but not often.

I do not have en oil cooler installed on the car.

I would rather by on the safe side with the oil I use and how frequently I change it than pay $6,000 for an engine rebuild. So if the rotella is a safer choice i have no problem using it.


Well nobody can comment on what is truly safer without knowing your oil temperature and pressure. We can only speculate.

 

[fdcg27]

375 bhp out of 2.5 liters is quite a lot in any terms, particularly for a car that is street legal and runs on pump gas.
The stock 2006 STI puts out 300 bhp @ 6000 and 300 ftlbs @ 4000. Even more impressive is that Subaru's AWD system can handle the torque.
This is Japanese engineering at its finest, and an STI would best any RWD BMW or Benz in any stoplight GP involving wet roads, simply because it has AWD and the Subaru AWD system is that good.
I smoked a Mustang GT in the rain with our Impreza, simply because the 2.2 Impreza AWD is quickish while the Mustang driver couldn't put much power down.