Most resilient oil to GDI intake desposits please

Originally Posted By: buster
I have about 51,400 miles on my 15 3 with the 2.0. I've only used Mobil 1 oil due to the SA of .8 and low volatility. I've also strictly used top tier gas, usually Shell or BP in the mid to premium grades. As others have said, there are other factors at play when it comes to GDI intake deposits.


Another good reason as to why I want to use Mobil 1 5w30 ESP in my Corvette is that it has only .6 SA, and it's NOACK is 5.6%. Using that oil, combined with only using Top Tier gas and hopefully I will have no problems regarding intake deposits.
 
Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: buster
I have about 51,400 miles on my 15 3 with the 2.0. I've only used Mobil 1 oil due to the SA of .8 and low volatility. I've also strictly used top tier gas, usually Shell or BP in the mid to premium grades. As others have said, there are other factors at play when it comes to GDI intake deposits.


Another good reason as to why I want to use Mobil 1 5w30 ESP in my Corvette is that it has only .6 SA, and it's NOACK is 5.6%. Using that oil, combined with only using Top Tier gas and hopefully I will have no problems regarding intake deposits.


I agree and that would be a good option in my opinion. Mobil lowered the SA of their oils back in 2012 when GF-5 hit. (Other than the 0w40).
 
Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: buster
I have about 51,400 miles on my 15 3 with the 2.0. I've only used Mobil 1 oil due to the SA of .8 and low volatility. I've also strictly used top tier gas, usually Shell or BP in the mid to premium grades. As others have said, there are other factors at play when it comes to GDI intake deposits.


Another good reason as to why I want to use Mobil 1 5w30 ESP in my Corvette is that it has only .6 SA, and it's NOACK is 5.6%. Using that oil, combined with only using Top Tier gas and hopefully I will have no problems regarding intake deposits.


Where did you get the noack on ESP? I looked at their spec sheet and do not see the noack listed:

https://www.mobil.com/English-US/Passenger-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GLXXMobil-1-ESP-Formula-5W30
 
Originally Posted By: Patman
Another good reason as to why I want to use Mobil 1 5w30 ESP in my Corvette is that it has only .6 SA, and it's NOACK is 5.6%. Using that oil, combined with only using Top Tier gas and hopefully I will have no problems regarding intake deposits.


All GDI engines (absent a secondary port injector) will develop deposits regardless of oil used, OCI, and gas used. Eventually, you will need to have the ports and valves cleaned to restore factory performance. It's just the way it is. Manufacturers could care less about a drop in horsepower/mpg 50k miles down the road. All they care about is meeting specs on a NEW engine.

You may slow it down with expensive oil, but you can't eliminate it.
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted By: Patman
Another good reason as to why I want to use Mobil 1 5w30 ESP in my Corvette is that it has only .6 SA, and it's NOACK is 5.6%. Using that oil, combined with only using Top Tier gas and hopefully I will have no problems regarding intake deposits.


All GDI engines (absent a secondary port injector) will develop deposits regardless of oil used, OCI, and gas used. Eventually, you will need to have the ports and valves cleaned to restore factory performance. It's just the way it is. Manufacturers could care less about a drop in horsepower/mpg 50k miles down the road. All they care about is meeting specs on a NEW engine.

You may slow it down with expensive oil, but you can't eliminate it.


Not even if you use the following every 5-6k miles?

http://crcindustries.com/gdi/
 
Originally Posted By: Patman
Another good reason as to why I want to use Mobil 1 5w30 ESP in my Corvette is that it has only .6 SA, and it's NOACK is 5.6%. Using that oil, combined with only using Top Tier gas and hopefully I will have no problems regarding intake deposits.

Not questioning your reasoning in the least, but I had always been under the impression that GM was doing fairly well with respect to intake deposits. At the very least, we haven't heard the collective calls for lynchings that come from the VW/Audi set.
wink.gif
 
I actually haven't heard a single C7 Corvette owner complain about deposits, but there are also very few of these cars with over 60k on them too. So I'm just being cautious and doing everything I can to keep this engine as clean as it can be.
 
The ultimate answer to dealing with GDI deposits is to not pull your intake and don't look! The amount of deposits shown in that video will not make any difference in performance or economy - nothing you will notice anyway.

Catch cans aren't going to stop it either, as I would guess that most of those deposits are coming from the intentional designed-in valve seal / valve guide leak (necessary to lube the guides).

Much ado about nothing on MOST GDI engines. There are certain engines that have real issues with deposits, but there are also lots of GDI engines out there with 100k miles and sub-par maintenance running fine.

EDIT: The guy that created that video has been trying to spread fear about IVC deposits all over every internet forum because he sells catch cans.
 
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I have 126,000 miles on my 2013 Accent, have used mostly Pennzoil Syn. Also use high octane gas 93 branded gas. At least half my miles have been high speed highway. Until last year no problem with pinging or performance that changing out the spark plug didn't fix, about evey 40 to 60 thousand miles. But performance was deteriorating this past year, and I didnt think it were the plugs. So, even so there were no trouble lights, I replaced the upsteam oxygen sensor with a new NGK one. Viola. The engine runs as smooth as new, at least that's what it feels like.
 
My solution is not to buy cars with GDI engines...... although I have one in the fleet. Ultimately, I'd like to see the Toyota solution with GDI mixed with port injection.
 
Let's hear the experience and opinions flow.

What oil brand, viscosity, and spec is the most resilient to contributing to intake carbon deposits on GDI engines.

I've read many threads, on many forums, for many different types of GDI engines. There is consensus that a full synthetic (whatever that means...?) shows clear signs of reducing the intake deposits. I suspect because of syns tolerance to high heat and a higher quality base oil with lower noack.
No oil will reduce intake deposits but oils which have an ACEA Cx rating will exhibit a reduced rate of accumulation compared to oils which are based on ACEA Ax/Bx.

Design of the intake, pcv system, and engine tuning are primarily responsible for the rate of accumulation.

Another thing is that engines are tolerant of some amount of buildup.
 
Oh yes, good old direct injection.

After my previous two direct injected cars (a combined 230,000 miles of driving) I’m happy to announce that none of my current cars have direct injection (2016 Toyota Avalon, surprisingly not direct injected), a 2008 Honda CRV and a Mercedes GL350.

But direct injection, let’s see...at 150,000 miles one of my cars began drinking so much oil that I had to carry around a quart in the trunk. Between 5,000 mile intervals I’d add 5 quarts. Traded it in at 179,000 miles. And my other direct injected engine...installed an oil catch can at 10,000 miles, drove it to 60,000 miles in two years. 5,000 mile intervals...adding a quart to a quart and a half between changes. Spent every day of those two years arguing with strangers on the internet about oil consumption, catch cans, the need to “only run Amsoil”, carbon on your valves is not “bad”, carbon on your valves is “bad”, you don’t have carbon on your valves, prove it, you don’t know, my grand daddy’s 1978 farm truck was carbureted and had 250,000 miles on it...the carbon on his valves never hurt a thing. Still running today. Don’t tell my direct injection is worse than carb fed engines. Why yooooou...

So it’s kind of nice to take a break from all that. Haha.
 
I have read a lot of comments here and on other sites regarding GDI or TGDI engines and how to counter carbon buildup. To condense it all in one post;

Run the manufacturers specified oil and find one with low Noack, low calcium which equates to gen 2 dexos. Change that oil regularly. In other words don’t skip oil changes.

These engines like to be wound up. Take the vehicle out once a week and enjoy a spirited drive.

Use top tier fuel. I have also read and heard that using premium may help with fuel dilution of the oil. On a side note, my Mazda SkyActiv 2.5 hit the half tank mark from what the dealer filled it with. I filled it with Shell V-Power. Now, according to many here, I should not notice any difference but I did right off the bat. Better acceleration. Also, with no change in city/highway driving ratio, my mileage went from 24.2 to now 26.3. Was it the fuel? I can’t say for certain. Since this is totally non-scientific , it’s only my word against everyone else. The engine should adjust for the octane but maybe there is something here we do not understand fully.

Enjoy the new GovMo. Sounds like a real fun car.
its true you shouldn't feel any difference in n.a engine requires regular fuel but maybe its different in the the skyactiv engines due to the higher compression ratio?
own a 2.5 n.a mazda as well and u got me all queries now.
 
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